‘Artisanal gelato’ is the leitmotif that appears on the signs of gelaterias everywhere, even outside Italy with wide use of the so-called Italian sounding. But the concept of Italian craftsmanship, in gelato even more than in other foods, lends itself to various interpretations and possible misunderstandings.
A bold bill has been presented to the Italian Senate with the aim of defining the production requirements of ‘high quality Italian artisanal gelato’, which could thus stand out from the crowd.
High quality Italian artisanal gelato, the bill
The bill establishes a definition of ‘high quality Italian artisanal gelato’ and indicates the skills required to define ‘the figure of the female artisanal gelato maker and the male artisanal gelato maker’.
The initiative, as is evident, does not aim to reform the modus operandi of the thousands of ‘artisanal’ gelaterias already in operation. Instead, it aims to introduce a special excellence designation for operators who wish to follow a specific code of conduct.
Chemical flavors and preservatives prohibited
The delicacy thus defined is bound to the use of ‘fresh and genuine’ raw materials. According to the tradition of creams (eggs, milk), milk base (cream, milk) and sorbets (fruit, sugar).
Synthetic ingredients are prohibited. It is expressly forbidden to add synthetic sweeteners, chemical flavors (i.e. not ‘natural’), artificial colors. Only natural colors based on spirulina, for example, for the ‘Smurf flavor’.
Natural gelato, without semi-finished products
The 'artisan ice cream Italian high quality' does not involve the use of hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated fats, emulsifiers (e.g., mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids), GMOs.
Off-limits, obviously, the use of semi-finished products on which most ice cream shops rely. In fact, the production regulation for ‘Italian high quality artisan ice cream’ corresponds to the requirements established in the ISO/TS 19657 Technical Specification (‘Definitions and technical criteria for food ingredients to be considered natural’).
Farewell to Nutella, Oreo, M&Ms and similar flavors
The quality overall of the ice cream also depends on the characteristics of other foods added to characterize its flavor. These, in turn, should comply with the criteria of ‘naturalness’ and Italian tradition established for the other ingredients.
Cookies, creams, candied fruits, nougats, etc. cannot therefore find a place in ‘Italian high quality artisan ice cream’ when containing hydrogenated fats, palm and palm kernel oil, coconut and rapeseed oils. This would eliminate the ‘Nutella’, ‘Oreo’, ‘M&Ms’ and similar flavors.
More gelato, less air
The preparation of ‘Italian high quality artisan ice cream’ must be carried out only by cold churning, the bill prescribes. With an express ban on forced air injection, as is customary in industrial and similar ice creams.
The churning cold consists of mixing and freezing the mixture simultaneously, obtaining the natural – rather than forced – incorporation of air that gives softness to the ice cream.
Basic ingredients and heavy penalties
The ingredients that characterize the bases of ‘Italian high quality artisan ice cream’ must be present in predefined minimum quantities. At least 6% by weight of egg yolk in the yellow cream base, 8% cream in the white one.
The artisan tradition high quality Italian ice cream makers should be protected, according to the proponents, through administrative pecuniary sanctions from 2,000 euros to 10,000 euros. Unless the act constitutes a crime, as could occur in cases of commercial fraud, for example.
Marta Strinati and Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) Bill initiative by senators Nencini, Grimani, Garavini, Cucca, Astorre and Viti, communicated to the Presidency on 22.9.20. Provisions for the production and definition of high quality Italian artisan ice cream as well as for the definition of the professional figure of the female artisan ice cream maker and the male artisan ice cream maker. See http://www.senato.it/service/PDF/PDFServer/BGT/01178007.pdf
Professional journalist since January 1995, has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and magazines (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). Author of journalistic investigations on food, she published the volume 'Reading labels to know what we eat'.
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
