The green gold of Sicily is enriched by a new vein, the Pistachio of Raffadali PDO, registered among the Italian Geographical Indications (GI) on 15.3.21. (1)
The lands of the Pistachio of Raffadali PDO
The cultivation of the Pistachio of Raffadali PDO is concentrated in 29 municipalities in the province of Agrigento and 2 in the province of Caltanissetta. (2)
To the PDO more than 100 growers and some processors (10-15) already belong to it, coordinated by the producers' association which has worked since 2016 for the recognition. And which will soon be transformed into the protection consortium, as required for PDOs. Many other agricultural and processing companies could join the PDO and triple the number of members.
Where to taste it
The harvest from the 500 hectares of now PDO pistachio groves (over 100 tons/year) is processed and used in increasingly innovative ways, not limited to pastry. Spreadable cream, pesto, fillings for sweets, flakes for traditional Sicilian cannoli, of course, but also pasta dressings and an unexpected ingredient even in meat-based preparations.
Many delicacies are tasted at Fastucafest, the Pistachio of Raffadali festival, held every year (except for the 2020 pandemic) on the third weekend of September in the historic center of the homonymous town. Fresh pistachios, harvested starting the third week of August and ending the first week of October. Always in two phases, following the double flowering, prioritizing the faster crops near the sea.
The Fastucafest is a magnet for tourists discovering Western Sicily, who already spot the pistachio groves of Raffadali from the Valley of the Temples. But it is also important for Sicilians.
‘The Fastucafest was a moment of rediscovery of pistachio, a crop abandoned in the 70s-80s dominated by emigration abroad in search of work. Universities and agronomists are also involved to create culture, to rediscover this cultivar, to stimulate the creativity of processors. It is oenogastronomy, not just agriculture’, says Calogero Frenda, president of the producers' association that led the long process of acquiring the PDO.
An investment in green
The Raffadali PDO Pistachio It is also agriculture, partly organic, expanding. In just three years, the associated farmers – now PDO – have planted 15,000 new plants.
The cultivar is indeed considered profitable. The Sicilian plant comes into production after 6-8 years and reaches the maximum between 10 and 15 years, when it can produce up to 20 kg of pistachios.
Considering that in shell the fruits are worth 10 euros per kg, with a density of 270 plants per hectare and a yield of 200 euros per plant, a (gross) revenue of 54 thousand euros/ha is estimated.
Irrigation is liked by the plants, but when it is lacking, it is remedied with more frequent soil work, to oxygenate it, close the cracks and keep the roots cool.
Pistachio of Raffadali PDO and pistachio of Bronte PDO
It cannot be missing a reference to the cousin Bronte PDO Pistachio. The two productions may seem equivalent to the less experienced, but this is not the case.
Both precious fruits with origin Made in Sicily, the two pistachios differ like the soils on which they grow. Rocky, of volcanic origin, the Bronte; calcareous the Agrigento-Nisseno Raffadali one, with consequently more agile field operations, also mechanical.
The specificities of the soil are reflected in the organoleptic qualities, which characterize the Bronte as more savory and the Raffadali (richer in essential oils) as sweeter and smoother to the palate.
Marta Strinati
Notes
(1) See Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2021/474 of 15 March 2021 registering a name in the register of protected designations of origin and protected geographical indications «Pistacchio di Raffadali» (PDO). Official Journal of the European Union https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/IT/TXT/?toc=OJ%3AL%3A2021%3A099%3AFULL&uri=uriserv%3AOJ.L_.2021.099.01.0034.01.ITA
2) The Raffadali DOP Pistachio is cultivated in the municipalities of Raffadali, Joppolo Giancaxio, Santa Elisabetta, Agrigento, Cianciana, Favara, Racalmuto, Sant’Angelo Muxaro, San Biagio Platani, Cattolica Eraclea, Casteltermini, Santo Stefano Quisquina, Aragona, Comitini, Grotte, Montallegro, Alessandria della Rocca, Siculiana, Realmonte, Naro, Porto Empedocle, Castrofilippo, Campobello di Licata, Ribera, Canicatti, Palma di Montechiaro, Ravanusa, Camastra; Montedoro and Serradifalco in the province of Caltanissetta.
Professional journalist since January 1995, she has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and magazines (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). Author of investigative reports on food, she published the book 'Reading labels to know what we eat'.
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