‘Vanilla pearls’ or ‘vanilla caviar’. Our market survey

The master ice cream makers and pastry chefs pursue perfection also through the search for the most precious natural ingredients. Vanilla – native to Mexico and mainly grown in Central Africa (Madagascar, Uganda) – is one of the protagonists of the confectionery tradition in Europe. And the use of ‘vanilla pearls’ or ‘vanilla caviar’, presented as the  cru of the precious pod, selected and extracted from its pods.

Our market survey and laboratory analyses reveal however that some products are not real ‘vanilla’, but an ‘aromatic preparation with vanilla flavor’. That is an ingredient composed of multiple ingredients, sometimes not even declared on the label. Professional users are therefore exposed to the risk of unknowingly providing incorrect information to their consumers and patrons.

Vanilla. Ingredient, aroma or aromatic preparation

Vanilla is used in the production of ice cream, yogurt and sweets, but also in beverages (even in Coca-Cola). Depending on the preparations and needs of the recipe or food technology, it is used in the following different forms:

a) ingredient ‘vanilla’

– as is, as raw food (pods and beans),
– in powder (100% vanilla powder),

b) vanilla flavor

– in liquid or powder, the vanilla flavor can be defined as ‘natural vanilla flavor’ only when at least 95% derived from vanilla, (1)

c) flavor preparation

– pastes, concentrates, extracts are instead qualified as flavoring preparations. (2) Since these are compound ingredients, their content must be specified on the label or in the ingredient register of the products where they are used.

‘vanilla pearls’ or ‘vanilla caviar’. Our market survey

Pastry shops and ice cream shops  artisanal,  pastry chef and star chefs have also begun to appreciate in recent years the ‘vanilla pearls’, or ‘vanilla caviar’. Words relevant to their prices, given that vanilla – after saffron – is the second most expensive spice in the world.

The market survey conducted by GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) begins with the analysis of the flagship product of Eurovanille. French group boasting over 6000 customers in more than 80 countries, leader in the Italian market.

Eurovanille, ‘Bourbon vanilla pearls’

The ‘Bourbon vanilla pearls – origin Madagascar pods’ of Eurovanille show a significant discrepancy between the product offered and that sold. Of such severity, unfortunately, as to constitute a suspicion of commercial fraud. In fact:

– the website  web company refers to a matrix ‘composed entirely of Bourbon vanilla seeds, finely sifted, and then combined with our natural vanilla concentrate, in order to obtain a dense paste’,

– the Italian catalog declares ‘100% vanilla’, specifying that 1 gram of product equals 1 pod of the finest vanilla variety, the Bourbon indeed,

– the ingredient list, on the label, indicates ‘blend of vanilla seeds obtained from extraction and natural Bourbon vanilla seeds (62.5%), Bourbon vanilla concentrate (37.5%)’,

– laboratory analyses carried out on our instructions by an accredited laboratory instead reveal the presence of molasses (8.8 g/100g), glucose (4.6 g), fructose (2.8 g), sucrose (1.4 g) and ethanol residues (0.0065 g), hopefully  food grade.

Vanille Lavany of Madagascar, 'caviar – vanilla pearls’

The 'caviar – vanilla pearls, Madagascar Bourbon Vanille Lavany of Madagascar – another French spice merchant – is presented on the site like this  web corporate: 'the caviar – pearl is the result of a mixture of our unexhausted Lavany vanilla beans and the concentrated Bourbon Vanilla of Madagascar – oleoresin’.

The ingredient list remains unknown both on the datasheet and the website  web of Vanille Lavany de Madagascar, both on Amazon. Where the 200 g jar of ‘pearl-caviar’ is thus illegally sold at the modest price of €184.50 (922.5 €/kg). The product, at least, is designated as ‘flavoring preparation based on Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar’ (3)

Perfumes of Madagascar, ‘vanilla caviar’

Perfumes of Madagascar  is an Italian company dedicated to the trade of vanilla, spices and handicraft products coming from the African island. Its ‘vanilla caviar’ is presented as ‘a specialty obtained from the extraction of the pulp found inside the vanilla pod’.

The 'vanilla caviar’ product by Gasy Sata company for Perfumes of Madagascar, however, reports in the ingredient list ‘non-exhausted vanilla seeds’ (80%) and ‘extract’ (20%). Therefore, it is once again a flavoring preparation under a false guise. Although, presumably, made with traditional methods. (4)

F.lli Rebecchi, ‘natural Bourbon Vanilla Madagascar aroma’

F.lli Rebecchi Valtrebbia S.p.A. – in addition to marketing Bourbon Vanilla Madagascar in pods and powder – has a catalog reference containing both vanilla seeds and its concentrate. The product in question is correctly presented, as ‘natural Bourbon Vanilla Madagascar aroma', without suggesting any combination with 'pearls' or 'caviar'. (5) A pearl of honesty in a market dominated by illicit practices and deceit.

Aromatic preparations vs. seeds and pods

The so-called ‘vanilla pearls’ or ‘vanilla caviar’ of Eurovanille, Vanille Lavany de Madagascar and Perfumes of Madagascar – despite advertising promises – are therefore made with vanilla seeds (often exhausted and odorless, but characteristic in appearance) and concentrates or extracts. These serve to give the flavoring preparation the desired scent and consistency. (6)

Concentrates and extracts they are made, depending on the case, with sugar or glucose syrup. That is water and fructose, or vegetable glycerin, or hydroalcoholic solution. The vanilla immersed in these solutions releases its aromatic components by osmosis often enhanced by heat treatment, into the concentrate or extract. Both of which, obviously, can in no way be equated with seeds or pods.

Tips for artisans, chef and confectionery companies

Appearances can be deceiving  and the control authorities have not yet devoted the necessary investigations to this sector to eradicate fraud. Until this happens, the artisan companies – pastry shops, ice cream shops, catering businesses – and confectionery industries that use these products:

– have the full right to demand from their suppliers the technical data sheets of vanilla-derived products, (7)

– must report on the label and/or sales signs of pastry and ice cream products the wording ‘flavoring preparation', followed in brackets by its specific ingredients.

The denomination ‘vanilla’ – and thus, ‘vanilla dessert’, ‘vanilla ice cream’, can be used only when the ingredient has been made exclusively, 100%, with the precious beans and/or pods. In all other cases, it can only refer to ‘to the taste of or ‘with the aroma of’.

Dario Dongo

Notes

(1)  Natural flavors, answered by lawyer Dario Dongo. FARE (Food and Agriculture Requirements). 16.10.18,  https://www.foodagriculturerequirements.com/archivio-notizie/domande-e-risposte/aromi-naturali-risponde-l-avvocato-dario-dongo

(2) Flavoring preparations in turn can be qualified as ‘traditional’, under the conditions established in Annex II of Regulation EC 1334/08  related to flavors and certain food ingredients with flavoring properties intended to be used in and on foods. Consolidated text as of 31.12.20 on  https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/IT/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A02008R1334-20201203&qid=1619076336370

(3) Vanille Lavany de Madagascar then presents its ‘Bourbon vanilla extract’ as a product ‘exclusively with Bourbon Vanilla beans from Madagascar’. Then reporting, in the  pole position of the ingredient list, inverted sugar syrup in first place and caramel in third

(4) Profumi del Madagascar also markets a vanilla extract where it declares, in the ingredients list, vanilla pods (40%), cane sugar syrup (30%), vanilla seeds 30%. For an unlikely total of 110%. See https://profumidelmadagascar.it/shop/spezie/vaniglia/vaniglia-bourbon-estratto/

(5) Rebecchi Valtrebbia S.p.A. Products in the catalog, on http://rebecchi.com/index.php/vaniglia-bacche, http://rebecchi.com/index.php/vaniglia-polvere e http://rebecchi.com/index.php/vaniglia-liquida

(6) EU Reg. 1169/2011, article 8.8

(7) Allergens, B2B information, answered by lawyer Dario Dongo. FARE (Food and Agriculture Requirements). 13.11.17,  https://www.foodagriculturerequirements.com/archivio-notizie/domande-e-risposte/allergeni-informazione-b2b-risponde-l-avvocato-dario-dongo