Natural wine, interest of Italian consumers grows

The microcosm of natural wines begins to attract the general public. A Nomisma study confirms consumers' need to receive information on the contents of wines on the market. And even the major operators of ‘Big Wine’ are peeking out. Like the Pasqua winery which, in addition to commissioning the cited research, announces the start of a small production of ‘natural wine’.

Natural wine, Nomisma research

The research ‘Natural wine and green lifestyles’ – conducted by ‘Wine Monitor’ by Nomisma on a thousand wine consumers aged 18-73 – confirms, as expected, that very few (12%) have a more or less exact idea of what ‘natural wine’ is. 50% of respondents have heard of it but do not know its characteristics, 21% have never heard of it but express curiosity.

71% of consumers Italian interviewed would like to have more information on natural wine. The survey – although conducted on a limited sample through a mostly closed-response questionnaire – offers some noteworthy insights:

– ‘natural wine’  is associated with the terms ‘craftsmanship’, ‘health’, ‘quality’, ‘authenticity’, ‘sustainability’, ‘simplicity’, goodness. ‘All attributes that confirm how the production method, health benefits, organoleptic characteristics and absence of artificial elements contribute to defining the perception of a product with a strongly organic vocation’, highlights the report,

– 89% of respondents would like guarantees on the origin of the wine, attributes more value (87%) and expresses greater propensity to purchase (85%) the ‘natural’ product,

– in comparison compared to ‘conventional’ wine, natural wine is considered more difficult to produce (79%), more beneficial for health (69%) and more environmentally friendly (66%), but also tastier. 61% of respondents imagine it has better organoleptic qualities,

– 57% of consumers would buy a priori the product that actually meets the promised characteristics of ‘naturalness’. 31% would instead like to taste it first and receive more information,

– the  Millennials, women and generally consumers with higher education and income (those who among other things tend to adhere more to the Mediterranean diet) appear to be those most attentive to the socio-environmental sustainability of consumption.

The mysteries of wine on the label

The demand for transparency on origin, production method and ingredients of the wine highlighted by the research of ‘Wine Monitor’ is a hot topic that not only institutions, but also the production and distribution chains still neglect. Not only in relation to natural wine, which still lacks a uniform regulation beyond the rules of some organizations, but for alcoholic beverages in general, including beers, and wines in particular.

The labels of Wine are still mysterious. The unjustified exemption from the list of ingredients prevents distinguishing wines and sparkling wines made with ‘alien sugars’, from cane or beet. And it is impossible to know when a product was made with chemically synthesized tartaric acid, rather than that derived from grape lees. Without indulging in further reflections on often still hidden allergens and unknown values of sulfur dioxide and sulfites.

The purchasing choices of Bacchus’ nectar, according to the ‘Wine Monitor’ report, are currently based on the following aspects:

– designation of origin (indicated by 27% of consumers as first choice factor), 

– grape variety (20%),

– region and area of origin (18%),

– price (7%),

– organic certification (3%).

Organic wine, continuous success

Organic wine is the protagonist of continuous growth - at national, European and global levels - consistent with the entire sector  of the organic agri-food sector. (1) According to the Bio Nomisma Observatory, in the five-year period 2013-2018 habitual consumers of organic wine in Italy increased from 2 to 41%.

The conversion to organic is consequently very pronounced, in vineyards as in other crops. Also thanks to the growing awareness of citizens towards environmental pollution and health risks associated with the use of pesticides in agriculture. According to data from FIBL ('The Research Institute of Organic Agriculture'), between 2009 and 2017 organic farming grew enormously in Italy (+142%), even more than in the world (+112%) and Europe (+103%).

Organic vineyards in Italy are particularly extensive in Sicily (35%) and Apulia (+14%), for a total of 103 thousand hectares cultivated with wine grapes using the organic method. Following are Tuscany (13%), Veneto (5%) and Marche (5%). Lombardy recorded the highest conversion rate, in the five-year period 2012-2017 (+289.7% for converted areas, compared to a national average of +84.3%. Above average also Veneto, +100%).

'Big Wine' naturally 

It is surprising, in some respects, the announcement of a natural wine signed Pasqua is surprising. The small, often microscopic size of the farm is indeed a common characteristic among independent winemakers and those who have so far committed to producing natural wines. The well-known Veronese winery, on the other hand, has a history dating back to 1925 and a turnover of 54.7 million euros, with 15 million bottles sold in 2018 in 61 countries. Also thanks to its own distribution branches, in the USA and China.

A small marketing experiment or the start of a path towards sustainable agriculture and the production of wines made from grapes and their derivatives, with the lowest possible contribution of chemicals in vineyards and fields? It is still early to say. The natural Pasqua wine, with label ‘Ember FireIt is a pilot project. Designed with Milanese chef and restaurateur Diego Rossi and led by agronomist Lorenzo Corino, 1,800 bottles per year to start.

The vineyard  from which Brasa Coèrta comes was planted in 1985 on clay-limestone soil of alluvial origin. The grape varieties grown are Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. As for the ‘natural’ method, the company reports, ‘The grapes are hand-picked with careful selection, then remain for about ten days in crates before being pressed. After pressing, they are transferred to wooden vats where natural yeasts carry out alcoholic fermentation. Once this step is complete, the wine is placed in second and third use French oak tonneaux for about 6 months, where malolactic fermentation takes place. Finally, it passes into steel for further refinement.’.

Marta Strinati and Dario Dongo

Notes

(1) The history of the success of Italian organic wine has been documented in previous articles relating to the years:

– 2016,  https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/vino-bio-un-2016-da-leoni-cresce-anche-lo-spumante-e-piace-il-bag-in-box, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/vino-italiano/vino-italiano-biologico-prosegue-la-crescita,

– 2015,  https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/vino-italiano-news/vino-biologico-italiano-export-2015,

– 2014,  https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/il-vino-biologico-italiano-a-vinitalybio, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/vino-bio-un-comparto-in-crescita