Natural wine, interest among Italian consumers is growing

The microcosm of natural wines is beginning to attract the general public. A Nomisma study confirms consumers' need to receive information about the contents of wines on the market. And even the big operators of ‘Big Wine’ are peeking out the window. Like the Pasqua winery which, in addition to commissioning the aforementioned research, announces the start of a small production of ‘natural wine’.

Natural wine, the Nomisma research

The research ‘natural wine and green lifestyles’ – conducted by ‘Wine Monitor’ of Nomisma on one thousand wine consumers aged 18-73 – confirms, as expected, that very few (12%) have a more or less accurate idea of what ‘natural wine’ is. 50% of respondents have heard about it but do not know its characteristics, 21% have never heard about it but express curiosity.

71% of consumers Italian respondents would like to have more information about natural wine. The survey – although carried out on a limited sample through a mostly closed-ended questionnaire – offers some noteworthy insights:

– ‘natural wine’  is associated with the terms ‘craftsmanship’, ‘health’, ‘quality’, ‘authenticity’, ‘sustainability’, ‘simplicity’, goodness. ‘All attributes that certify how the production method, health benefits, organoleptic characteristics and absence of artificial elements contribute to defining the perception of a strongly organic-oriented product’, highlights the report,

– 89% of respondents would like guarantees on the origin of the wine, assigns more value (87%) and expresses greater willingness to buy (85%) the ‘natural’ product,

– comparison compared to ‘conventional’ wine, natural wine is considered more difficult to produce (79%), more beneficial for health (69%) and environmentally friendly (66%), but also tastier. 61% of respondents imagine it has better organoleptic qualities,

– 57% of consumers would a priori purchase the product that effectively meets the promised characteristics of ‘naturalness’. 31% would rather taste it first and receive more information,

– the  Millennials, women and generally consumers with higher education and income (those who among other things tend to adhere more to the Mediterranean diet) appear to be those most attentive to socio-environmental sustainability of consumption.

The mysteries of wine on the label

The demand for transparency on origin, production method and ingredients of the wine highlighted by the research of ‘Wine Monitor’ is a burning issue that not only institutions, but also the production and distribution chains still neglect. Not only in relation to natural wine, which to date lacks uniform regulations beyond the guidelines of some organizations, but for alcoholic beverages in general, including beers, and wines in particular.

The labels of Wine are still mysterious. The unjustified exemption from the list of ingredients prevents distinguishing wines and sparkling wines made with ‘alien sugars’, cane or beet sugar. And it is impossible to know when a product has been made with chemically synthesized tartaric acid, rather than that derived from grape lees. Without delving further into reflections on allergens often still hidden and unknown levels of sulfur dioxide and sulfites.

Purchase choices of Bacchus’ nectars, according to the ‘Wine Monitor’ report, are currently based on the following aspects:

– designation of origin (indicated by 27% of consumers as the primary selection factor), 

– grape variety (20%),

– region and area of origin (18%),

– price (7%),

– organic certification (3%).

Organic wine, continuous success

Organic wine is the protagonist of continuous growth – at national, European, and global levels – consistent with the entire sector  of the organic agri-food sector. (1) According to the Bio Nomisma Observatory, in the five-year period 2013-2018, habitual consumers of organic wine in Italy increased from 2 to 41%.

Conversion to organic is consequently very pronounced, in vineyards as in other crops. Also thanks to the growing awareness of citizens towards environmental pollution and the health dangers associated with the use of pesticides in agriculture. According to the data of FIBL ('The Research Institute of Organic Agriculture'), between 2009 and 2017 organic farming grew extraordinarily in Italy (+142%), even more than in the world (+112%) and in Europe (+103%).

Organic vineyards in Italy are particularly extensive in Sicily (35%) and Puglia (+14%), totaling 103,000 hectares cultivated with organic wine grapevines. Following are Tuscany (13%), Veneto (5%), and Marche (5%). Lombardy recorded the highest conversion rate, in the five-year period 2012-2017 (+289.7% for converted surfaces, compared to a national average of +84.3%. Above average also Veneto, +100%).

'Big Wine' natural 

It is surprising, in some respects, the announcement of a natural wine signed Pasqua. The small, often microscopic, size of the farm is indeed a common characteristic of independent winemakers and those who have so far committed to producing natural wines. The well-known Verona winery, on the other hand, has a history dating back to 1925 and a turnover of 54.7 million euros, with 15 million bottles sold in 2018 in 61 countries. Thanks also to its own distribution branches, in the USA as well as in China.

A small marketing experiment or the start of a path towards sustainable agriculture and the production of wines made from grapes and their derivatives, with the least possible contribution from chemicals in vineyards and fields? It is still too early to say. The Pasqua natural wine, with label ‘Coerced Ember’ is a pilot project. Conceived with the Milanese chef and restaurateur Diego Rossi and conducted by the agronomist Lorenzo Corino, 1,800 bottles a year to start.

The vineyard  from which Brasa Coèrta comes was planted in 1985 on clay-limestone soil of alluvial origin. The grape varieties grown are Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. As for the 'natural' method, the company reports, 'The grapes are hand-picked with careful selection, then remain for about ten days in crates before being pressed. After pressing, they are transferred to wooden vats where natural yeasts carry out alcoholic fermentation. After this step, the wine is placed in French oak barrels of second and third use for about 6 months, where malolactic fermentation takes place. Finally, it goes into steel for further refinement’.

Marta Strinati and Dario Dongo

Notes

(1) The story of the success of Italian organic wine has been documented in previous articles, relating to the years:

– 2016,  https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/vino-bio-un-2016-da-leoni-cresce-anche-lo-spumante-e-piace-il-bag-in-box, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/vino-italiano/vino-italiano-biologico-prosegue-la-crescita,

– 2015,  https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/vino-italiano-news/vino-biologico-italiano-export-2015,

– 2014,  https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/il-vino-biologico-italiano-a-vinitalybio, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/vino-bio-un-comparto-in-crescita