Tuscan Cantucci PGI: history, specification and market data

From the Roman ‘cantellus’ to the Medici court: an ancient genealogy

The origins of  Tuscan cantucci date back at least to the 16th century, but the name carries a double etymological root: from the vulgar 'canto' — understood as a portion taken from a whole — or from the Latin  cantellus, 'slice of bread', reminiscent of the salted biscuit consumed by soldiers of the Roman Empire. The transformation into a sweet follows the so-called European ‘sugar boom’ starting from the 14th century, when sugarcane cultivation spread in North Africa and southern Europe.

From the second half of the 16th century, cantuccini appeared on Medici tables, but in a form that still did not include almonds, instead inspired by  Pisa cookies and the so-called ‘Genoese biscuit’. An official linguistic consecration arrived in 1691, when the  Dictionary of the Accademia della Crusca defines them as: ‘sliced biscuit, made of finest flour, with sugar and egg white’. The naturalist Francesco Redi, in those same years, testified in his correspondence that the most renowned cantuccini were those from Pisa – an early document of a purely Tuscan ‘local pride of taste’ that still survives, to some extent, today.

The  first documented recipe with almonds is an eighteenth-century manuscript by Amadio Baldanzi, a scholar from Prato, preserved in the State Archives of Prato, in which the biscuits were already called ‘alla genovese’. But it is in the 19th century that the definitive turning point occurs: Antonio Mattei, a pastry chef from Prato nicknamed ‘Mattonella’, elaborated the classic recipe with whole almonds that earned him a special mention at theUniversal Exposition of Paris of the 1867. His biscuit factory, founded in 1858 and still active in Prato, is still considered the guardian of the Prato variant - technically distinct from Tuscan Cantuccini IGP due to the absence of yeasts and the addition of pine nuts.

The PGI specification: requirements and secrets of double baking

The recognition  IGP arrived on January 26, 2016, with the publication of the Implementing Regulation (EU)  2016/81 in the Official Journal of the European Union, following an application submitted in 2011 by Assocantuccini. Both names – ‘Cantuccini Toscani‘ and ‘Tuscan cantucci‘ – are admitted and protected under Regulation (EU) 2024/1143. The production area includes the entire administrative territory of the Tuscany region.

The specification defines ingredients and processing method rigorously. The ingredients mandatory are:

• ‘wheat flour;

• whole natural sweet almonds (unpeeled), with relative humidity not exceeding 8.5%, in a minimum quantity of 17% and in any case ensuring, even after baking the dough, a minimum quantity of 20% of this ingredient compared to 1 kg of finished product;

• eggs pasteurized hen eggs and egg yolk, not less than 3% in yolk;

• butter for not less than 1.5%. Prohibition of the use of any other fat (as already provided in Italy for the doughs of panettone, pandoro e colomba);

• ‘granulated, crystalline or pearl sugar from 20% to 40%;

• multifloral honey, in addition to sugar from 0.3% to 1.5%’;

• leavening agents.

The optional ingredients are instead: ‘glucose syrup or inverted sugar (to be used exclusively in the browning phase), salt, whole milk, flavors or natural flavors. No other ingredients are allowed, additives, colorings or preservatives. The use of powdered eggs and egg yolks is not permitted. The use of sliced ​​almonds, chopped almonds or almond flour is not permitted’.

The working method is divided into the following steps:

• the dough is shaped into logs, brushed with a mixture of water and egg for the characteristic browning, and subjected to  double baking;

• the first oven baking sets the structure of the loaf; the  hot diagonal cut – a critical operation requiring speed of execution – produces the irregular semi-oval shape;

• the second baking dries the biscuit, giving it the typical crumbly crunchiness.

Product characteristics

At the time of placing on the market, the product must meet the following characteristics:

• ‘shape traditional semi-oval characteristic, obtained by cutting the loaf diagonally after baking’;

• weight and dimensions: weight not exceeding 15 g per piece, length no more than 10 cm, height 3 cm, width 2.8 cm;

• inner part, beige in color, ‘characterized by alveolation slightly irregular due to the product's leavening, studded with unpeeled almonds, randomly distributed’;

• golden outer surface;

• consistency ‘slightly crunchy, initially grainy, but
  that melts in the mouth due to the use of butter;

• ‘humidity relative, between a minimum of 3% and a maximum of 7%’.

Packaging must take place in the defined geographical area, to preserve the organoleptic characteristics from the natural hygroscopicity of the dry biscuit.

Market analysis: export facing international challenges

In the panorama of  Tuscan PGIs by production volume, Tuscan Cantuccini PGI — a relatively young designation — had seen explosive growth in the first seven years since recognition, culminating in  2021 with a historic peak By 4,122 tons and an estimated consumption value of 77 million euros (+55% over 2020).

The data 2024, published by Assocantuccini in the report of president Daniele Scapigliati (August 2025), show a slight contraction for the third consecutive year: certified PGI production fell from 3,543 t (2023) to 3,313 t (-6.5%). Total retail turnover decreased from about 78 to 73 million euros, with sales prices remaining stable despite inflation, showing increasing pressure on industrial margins.

The most significant element is the  first decline of exports in the history of the designation: the export share fell from 51% in 2023 to 48% in 2024. Since Germany, Austria and Switzerland (DACH) together absorb about 25% of the volumes produced. Assocantuccini has launched a specific ‘Germany Project’ to consolidate positioning. The United States is the main non-EU market, but remains exposed to tariff risks.

As Scapigliati stated: ‘Tuscan Cantuccini have no direct competitors but have imitators. It is the latter who can take advantage of the situation. […] We ask the Government to extend the recognition of thePGI in all international treaties that the EU is about to negotiate on a bilateral basis.‘

Taste experiences: traditional pairings and gourmet trends

The canonical pairing with  Vin Santo Tuscan – to be consumed with the ritual of ‘dipping’ – is a constitutive part of the cantuccino’s identity and has contributed to its international reputation as an after-dinner dessert. The long shelf life of the dry biscuit, guaranteed by hermetic packaging, has historically favored export.

In contemporary catering, cantucci find more elaborate applications: crumbled as  a crunchy base for spoon desserts, paired with artisanal almond or pistachio gelato, or used in the Tuscan and Umbrian version of  cantucci tiramisu — where they replace ladyfingers, imparting a rustic and aromatic note appreciated in local catering. Pairing with quality infusion teas – particularly structured black teas like Assam or Yunnan – is a popular trend in the  specialty food Anglo-Saxon and Northern European channel, consistent with the dry biscuit’s natural suitability for dunking.

Quality assurance: import guide for foreign buyers

For international buyers, PGI compliance verification passes through the label: the European logo of the Protected Geographical Indication and the Consortium are primary indicators of authenticity. The  almond percentage (never less than 20%) and the presence of butter as the only source of fat are discriminating elements in authenticity evaluation. The organic certification, where available, adds supply chain control ensuring the highest levels of environmental and biodiversity protection.

For international buyers, it is useful to assess supply continuity, ability to adapt to destination market labeling standards, and food safety management certifications (FSSC 22000, IFS, BRC, or equivalents). The team of  GIFT – Great Italian Food Trade supports importers in the selection of excellent Italian producers, in documentary due diligence and in guidance among the 21 companies members of Assocantuccini, facilitating access to organic and high-end Tuscan IGP cantuccini for international markets.

Perspectives: a designation seeking new markets

The future of Tuscan IGP Cantuccini lies in the ability to combine brand protection with the exploration of new non-EU markets. Although 2024 marks a phase of adjustment, the strength of the specification and the high quality of raw materials – such as natural almonds and butter – remain the pillars on which the success of sweet Made in Italy rests. The challenge for the supply chain will be to oversee the global specialty food channels, transforming a historic biscuit into a contemporary lifestyle icon.

GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) Editorial Team

References

• Assocantuccini — Consortium for the Protection of Tuscan IGP Cantuccini, Florence.  https://www.assocantuccini.org

• Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2016/81 of 19 January 2016 concerning the registration of a name in the register of protected designations of origin and protected geographical indications [Cantuccini Toscani/Cantucci Toscani (IGP)].  http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg_impl/2016/81/oj

• Scapigliati, D. (2025, August 7). Tuscan cantuccini in search of new markets.  T24 — The Tuscan economic daily. https://www.t24economia.it/art/cantuccini-toscani-in-cerca-di-nuovi-mercati

• European Union. (2015). Publication of a registration application pursuant to Article 50, paragraph 2, letter a), of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 (2015/C 263/04).  https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/IT/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:52015XC0811%2801%29&from=IT