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Sicilian extra virgin olive oil: biodiversity and certified quality

The Sicily confirms itself as the beating heart ofMediterranean olive growing, an open-air laboratory where millennia of history meet the innovation of sustainability. With a unique heritage of over 50 native cultivars and a certification system for extra virgin olive oil that includes one PGI and six PDOs, the Island offers a mosaic of sensory profiles ranging from the balsamic notes of Etna to the tomato scents of the Iblei. This guide analyzes Sicilian excellence through the most recent production data, strict protection regulations, and the extraordinary nutraceutical properties that define its global value.

The numbers of olive growing in Sicily: production and market

The Sicily is the third Italian region for olive oil production and number of mills, after Apulia and Calabria, with an olive-growing area that in 2024 reached  176,974 hectares, equal to 15.5% of the total national, and about 500 active oil mills (Ismea, 2025).

The province of Agrigento confirms itself as the main production area, with an incidence of 33-35% on regional production, followed by  Trapani (22-23%),  Palermo (14-16%), and from the eastern provinces of  Catania, Siracusa e Ragusa (IRVO, 2025).

Quality certifications

According to the XXIII Ismea-Qualivita Report 2025, the sector of Italian DOP and IGP oils recorded an extraordinary growth in 2024 (Ismea-Qualivita, 2025). The overall production of certified oils reached  16,190 tons (+31.1% compared to 2023), while the  production value rose to  194 million euros (+46.9%). The consumption value reached  258 million euros (+47.8%), and theexport was around  102 million euros (+25.3%).

In 2024, only the  certified IGP Sicily production managed by IRVO (Regional Institute of Wine and Oil) reached about  2,100 tons of certified oil, confirming the exponential growth started in 2016, when certified production was only 15 tons (IRVO, 2024). The levels of adherence to the consortia protecting Geographical Indications are still low compared to their great potential.

Sicily is also one of the leading regions in Italy for olive oil production organicwith about 40,000 hectares which corresponds to about  25% of the regional olive-growing surface area (2024 data, source SINAB/MASAF/ISMEA/CIHEAM Bari). Sicilian leadership in the organic segment is favored by the peculiar pedoclimatic conditions of the island: high solar radiation and constant ventilation drastically reduce the incidence of major phytopathologies, such as the olive fly (Bactrocera oleae), allowing low environmental impact agronomic management.

Archaeobotany and history: the origin of the olive in Europe

The olive tree in Sicily has been present in its wild form since pre-Quaternary period, that is before about 2.58 million years ago. The olive tree, although domesticated in the Middle East since the 4th millennium BC, spread in Europe starting from Sicily in the 1st millennium BC by the Phoenicians and Greeks. The economic importance of its cultivation in Sicily is documented in various writings from the late Greek and Roman periods.

In the era  Arab-Norman (9th-12th century), Sicilian olive growing experienced a period of extraordinary development, with the introduction of new irrigation techniques and the spread of cultivars resistant to the Mediterranean climate. Oil production became a fundamental component of the insular economy.

Over the centuries, Sicily has developed a heritage of  native cultivars unique in the world, perfectly adapted to the different insular microclimates: from the robust and productive varieties of Trapani (Nocellara del Belice, Biancolilla, Cerasuola) to the more aromatic cultivars of the Etna and Iblean areas (Nocellara Etnea, Tonda Iblea), up to the traditional varieties of Messina (Santagatese, Ogliarola Messinese).

The recognition of  DOP and IGP denominations, between 1997 and 2016, officially confirmed the value of these millenary traditions, protecting the link between product and territory according to the regulation now established by  Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 relating to geographical indications for agricultural and food products.

The value of transparency: the 7 Sicilian PDO and PGI certifications

Sicily boasts  seven protected denominations for extra virgin olive oil, each an expression of a specific territory, native cultivars and millenary olive-growing traditions.

1. PGI Sicily: the island’s identity in a single designation

The production area of the olives intended for the production ofSicily IGP extra virgin olive oil includes, in the entire administrative territory of the Sicily region, the olive-growing areas suitable to achieve the productions with the qualitative characteristics provided by the production specification (specification, article 3).

Allowed cultivars:

  • Aitana, Biancolilla, Bottone di gallo, Brandofino, Calatina, Cavalieri, Cerasuola, Crastu, Erbano, Giarraffa, Lumiaru, Marmorigna, Minuta, Moresca, Nasitana, Nerba, Nocellara del Belice, Nocellara etnea, Nocellara messinese, Ogliarola messinese, Olivo di Mandanici, Piricuddara, Santagatese, Tonda iblea, Vaddarica, Verdello, Verdese, Zaituna and their synonyms;
  • Other varieties previously certified can contribute up to
    a maximum of 10% (specification, article 2).

The maximum production allowed cannot exceed the quantity of 10 tonnes of olives per hectare. The harvest must be carried out directly from the plant, in the period between September 1 and January 30 of the following year. The crushing of the olives must be done within 48 hours of harvesting in Sicilian mills. The maximum yield of olives to oil cannot exceed 24% (specification, articles 5 and 6).

Organoleptic evaluation (COI method)

Median interval Minimum Maximum
Ripe olive fruitiness > 2 < 8
Green olive fruitiness > 2 < 8
Grass and/or tomato and/or artichoke > 0 < 8
Bitter > 0 < 7
Pungent > 0 < 8

Chemical-physical evaluation:

  • acidity, expressed as oleic acid, < 0.5% (below the limit established for extra virgin olive oil in EU regulation 2022/2104, equal to 0.8%)
  • peroxide number: ≤ 12 mEqO2/kg;
  • total polyphenols: ≥ 100 mg/kg;
  • alkyl esters < 30 mg/kg (specification, article 9).

2. Val di Mazara Extra Virgin Olive Oil PDO

The Val di Mazara DOP covers the entire province of Palermo and part of that of Agrigento.

Main cultivars:

  • Biancolilla, Nocellara del Belice e Cerasuola, for at least the 90%;
  • Ogliarola Messinese, Giaraffa and Santagatese or possibly small percentages of other typical local cultivars may contribute in a measure not exceeding 10% (regulation, article 2).

Sensory characteristics:

  • color: golden yellow with shades of intense green;
  • odor: fruity and sometimes also almond;
  • taste: fruity, velvety with a sweet aftertaste;
  • minimum score in panel test > 6.5.

Chemical-physical characteristics:

  • maximum total acidity expressed as oleic acid, by weight, < 0.5 per 100 grams of oil;
  • peroxide number < 11 meq O₂/kg;
  • K232 < 2.10; K270 < 0.15; Delta K < 0.005;
  • linolenic acid < 0.9%;
  • linoleic acid < 10%.

3. Valle del Belìce PDO

The Valle del Belìce DOP covers five municipalities of the historical area of the Valle del Belìce, which extends between the inland and the coastal belt of Trapani.

Main cultivars:

  • Nocellara del Belice for at least 70%;
  • other cultivars grown in the production area – in particular Giarraffa, Biancolilla, Cerasuola, Buscionetto, Santagatese, Ogliarola Messinese and other minor cultivars, individually or collectively – cannot exceed 30%.

Sensory characteristics:

  • color: from green to yellow with greenish reflections;
  • smell: olive fruity from unripe to ripe;
  • taste: fruity: from medium to intense;
    bitter sensation: from light to intense;
    spicy sensation: from light to intense;
  • minimum score in panel test > 6.5.

Chemical-physical characteristics:

  • maximum acidity, oleic acid, by weight, < 0.5 per 100 grams of oil;
  • peroxides: < 12 meq O₂/kg;
  • polyphenols: ≥ 100 ppm; (regulation, article 7).

4. Valli Trapanesi Extra Virgin Olive Oil PDO

Produced in the hilly area of  province of Trapani, the Valli Trapanesi PDO oil is based on a blend of native cultivars:

  • Cerasuola e Nocellara del Belice, alone or together in the olive groves. in an amount not less than80%;
  • other varieties present in the olive groves, in an amount not exceeding 20% (regulation, article 2).

Sensory characteristics:

  • color: green with possible golden yellow reflections;
  • smell: clear olive with possible herbaceous tones;
  • taste: fruity with a light sensation of spiciness and bitterness;
  • minimum score in panel test > 6.5.

Chemical-physical characteristics:

  • maximum total acidity expressed in oleic acid, < 0.5 per 100 grams of oil;
  • peroxide number < 10.00 meqO2/kg;
  • K232 < 2.20; K270 < 0.15; Delta K < 0.05;
  • linolenic acid: < 0.8%;
  • linoleic acid: < 12.00%;
  • oleic acid > 70% (regulation, article 6).

Production area: municipalities of the hilly and foothill areas of the province of Trapani.

5. Monti Iblei Extra Virgin Olive Oil PDO

TheMonti Iblei PDO oil is produced in the hilly and foothill area of the Iblei, among the provinces of  Ragusa, Siracusa e Catania, and is distinguished by an intense and markedly vegetal sensory profile.

Main cultivars:

  • Tonda Iblea, Moresca, Nocellara Etnea, Verdese, Biancolilla e Zaituna, alone or together, for at least 80%;
  • other varieties may contribute up to a maximum of 20%.

Organoleptic evaluation (COI method) – min. median interval. max.:

  • ripe olive fruity > 2, ≤ 6;
  • green olive fruity > 2, ≤ 8;
  • grass and/or tomato and/or artichoke > 2, ≤ 8; bitter > 2, ≤ 6;
  • spicy > 2, ≤ 8.

No type of organoleptic defect is allowed (the median of the defects must be = 0).

Chemical-physical characteristics:

  • maximum acidity: 0.5% (expressed in oleic acid);
  • peroxide number: ≤ 12 meq O₂/kg;
  • K232 ≤ 2.5; K270 ≤ 0.22;
  • total polyphenols: ≥ 120 ppm; delta-K ≤ 0.01 (discipline, article 7).

6. Monte Etna Extra Virgin Olive Oil PDO

Produced on the slopes of the highest active volcano in Europe, theMonte Etna DOP olive oil benefits from a unique terroir characterized by mineral-rich volcanic soils, significant thermal excursions, and variable altitudes. The production area includes 43 municipalities in the province of Catania, one in the province of Enna and five in that of Messina.

Main cultivars:

  • Nocellara Etnea, in a measure not less than 65%;
  • other Sicilian native cultivars may contribute for the remaining 35%.

Organoleptic evaluation (COI method) – median range* min. max:

  • ripe olive fruity 2-6;
  • green olive fruity 2-6;
  • herbaceous and/or tomato and/or artichoke notes 2-5;
  • bitter 2-6;
  • spicy 2-6.

‘No type of organoleptic defect is allowed' (median of defects equal to zero).

Chemical-physical characteristics:

  • acidity (expressed in oleic acid): < 0.5%;
  • peroxide number < 12 meq O2/kg;
  • linoleic acid < 13.50 %
  • linolenic acid < 0.9 %
  • total polyphenols > 120 ppm (discipline, article 6).

7. Valdemone Extra Virgin Olive Oil PDO

TheValdemone DOP olive oil is produced in the northeastern area of Sicily, in the  province of Messina, in a territory characterized by hilly terrain overlooking the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas.

Main cultivars:

  • Santagatese e Ogliarola Messinese e Minuta, alone or jointly, in a minimum amount of 70%;
  • Mandanici, Nocellara Messinese, Ottobratica, Verdello, and Brandofino may contribute for the remaining 30%.

Sensory characteristics:

  • clear and slightly veiled appearance;
  • color: from green with yellow tones to olive yellow;
  • fruity: ‘the olfactory sensation highlights the more or less intense aroma of freshly picked olives always accompanied by hints of herbs, leaves, and flowers of spontaneous plants present in the floral entourage of the olive groves in the province of Messina’;
  • ‘taste sensations: on the palate, the oil reiterates the olfactory perceptions with a sensation of freshly picked olives, slightly contrasted by bitterness; the sensations
    retro-olfactory notes that more or less clearly accompany the smell and taste of Valdemone oil are almond, fresh fruit, tomato, and thistle
    ’;
  • minimum panel test value: equal to or greater than 7 and always within legal limits.

Chemical-physical characteristics:

  • maximum acidity: 0.7%;
  • peroxide number: equal to or less than the value of 12 meq O2/kg.

Comparative Table: the 7 oil excellences of Sicily

Denomination Main Cultivars Main Olfactory Notes Flavor Profile
IGP Sicily Multivarietal (Biancolilla, Cerasuola, Nocellara) Tomato, artichoke, cut grass Balanced, medium bitter and pungent
DOP Val di Mazara Biancolilla, Cerasuola, Nocellara from Belice Almond, ripe fruity Velvety, sweet aftertaste
DOP Valle del Belìce Nocellara from Belice (min. 70%) Green olive, grass Intense, decisive bitter and pungent
DOP Valli Trapanesi Cerasuola, Nocellara from Belice Clean olive, herbaceous tones Fruity with light pungency
DOP Monti Iblei Tonda Iblea, Moresca Green tomato, fresh grass Structured, high aromatic charge
DOP Monte Etna Nocellara Etnea (min. 65%) Artichoke, tomato, volcanic herbs Medium fruity, very harmonious
DOP Valdemone Santagatese, Ogliarola Messinese, Minuta Wild herbs, flowers, almond Delicate, almondy, contained bitterness

Atlas of Sicilian cultivars: a treasure of biodiversity

Sicily holds one of the assets of  olive biodiversity among the richest in Europe, with over  50 native cultivars registered, of which at least 25 are economically significant. Below, some notes on the most widespread varieties.

Dual-purpose varieties and oil cultivars

The main dual-purpose cultivars (oil and table) are:

  • Nocellara del Belice: robust and productive cultivar, widespread in the Trapani and Agrigento areas, with medium-large sized olives and excellent oil yield (18-22%). Produces medium fruity oils with notes of almond and tomato, balanced bitterness and spiciness.
  • Nocellara Etnea: variety cultivated on the slopes of Mount Etna, characterized by medium-large olives and a high polyphenol content. The oils are intensely fruity with pronounced bitterness and spiciness.

The most widespread oil cultivars are instead:

  • Biancolilla: native cultivar among the most widespread in western Sicily. Produces medium fruity oils with notes of sweet almond, artichoke and herbaceous hints, light-medium bitterness and spiciness.
  • Cerasuola: typical variety of Trapani and Palermo areas, characterized by high productivity and good oil yield (18-20%). The oils are medium-intense fruity with notes of green tomato, grass and almond, medium bitterness and spiciness.
  • Tonda Iblea: native cultivar of the Iblea area, perfectly adapted to calcareous soils. Produces intense fruity oils with marked notes of green tomato, tomato leaf and artichoke, rich in polyphenols (250-400 mg/kg) and with high oleic acid concentration (70-76%).
  • Moresca: variety widespread in the Iblea area and Catania, characterized by high phenolic concentration and very structured oils, with pronounced bitterness and spiciness.
  • Santagatese: native cultivar of the Messina area, characterized by medium fruity oils with floral notes, sweet almond and delicate herbaceous hints.
  • Ogliarola Messinese: traditional variety of the Messina province, produces medium fruity oils with an elegant aromatic profile and contained bitterness and spiciness.

Health and science: the nutraceutical profile of Sicilian oil

Sicilian extra virgin oils, thanks to the high content of  polyphenols (on average 150-400 mg/kg) and the richness in  oleic acid (65-78% of total fatty acids), present significant nutritional properties.

Sicilian oils are characterized by:

  • high concentration of  oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol e tyrosol, phenolic compounds with recognized antioxidant activity;
  • significant presence of  vitamin E (α-tocopherol);
  • optimal lipid profile, with prevalence of monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFA);
  • presence of  squalene, phytosterols e chlorophylls.

Regulation (EU) No. 432/2012 allows the indication ‘The polyphenols in olive oil contribute to the protection of blood lipids from oxidative stress’, on the label and in advertising of olive oils containing at least 5 mg of hydroxytyrosol and its derivatives per 20 g of oil.

Traceability and certification

The system of  traceability of Sicilian DOP and IGP extra virgin oils is managed byIRVO (Regional Institute of Wine and Oil), which ensures rigorous controls through:

  • field inspections on olive groves;
  • controls in the mill;
  • chemical analyses in accredited laboratories;
  • organoleptic evaluations through official panel tests (EU regulation 2022/2104);
  • documentary checks.

Each batch of oil is identified through a  unique code which guarantees full traceability of the product.

Buying guide: how to choose the best Sicilian oils

For passionate consumers

It is advisable to focus on:

  • Sicilian oils  organic, as the best expression of biodiversity and environmental protection;
  • oils  certified PDO or PGI, with indication of theproduction year; (which is mandatory in Italy on the labels of oils made from olives harvested in the same campaign);
  • products obtained from  early harvest (October-November);
  • dark glass packaging, to prevent oxidation.

For buyers and professional operators

Sicilian denominations are ideal for:

  • programs of  private label in the premium segment;
  • selections for  high-end catering;
  • enhancement projects of  biodiversity of Italian olive growing;
  • specialized channels (wine shops, delicatessens, niche e-commerce).

The team of  GIFT – Great Italian Food Trade provides support to international buyers to connect and establish 'win-win' business relationships with certified PDO and PGI suppliers, especially in the organic sector.

Conclusions

Sicilian extra virgin olive oil is a pillar of the Mediterranean diet and a model of agricultural resilience. The indissoluble bond between territory, botanical varieties and human know-how, protected by the Geographical Indications system, guarantees an authentic and traceable product. Investing in knowledge and conscious consumption of Sicilian green gold means promoting a quality economy that protects biodiversity and the health of the global consumer.

Dario Dongo

Credit cover: ‘Serafica land of oil and wine’ 

Bibliography
  • Consortium of the Sicilian Olive Oil Supply Chain (APOLIVO). (n.d.). PDO – Protected Designations of Origin and certifying body. Val di Mazara PDO. https://www.apolivo.com/dop/
  • IRVO – Regional Institute of Wine and Olive Oil. (2024).  Regional Olive-Oil Observatory. Palermo: Sicilian Region.  https://www.irvos.it

DARIO DONGO
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Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.

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