The Panettone of Milan is an Italian gastronomic excellence, symbol of the Christmas tradition of Milan and ambassador of Italian confectionery ‘Made in Italy’ worldwide. Characterized by a natural leavening, fine ingredients such as butter, raisins and candied fruit, and a production technique handed down through history, this cake embodies centuries of history cultural and artisanal heritage. The regulations of the ‘Typical Panettone of the Milanese Artisan Tradition’ (Committee of the Pastry Masters of the Milanese Tradition) aim to preserve authenticity and quality criteria, ensuring a product rooted in Milanese tradition.

History and legends

The origins of the Milanese Panettone seem to date back to the 15th century. According to Pietro Verri, in the ‘History of Milan’ (1782-1799), on Christmas Eve a ceremony called ‘log rite’: a large log decorated with branches was lit in the fireplace and the family gathered around the fire to break and share three large wheat breads (Verri, 2010). During the ceremony, the lit log was seen as a symbol of the cosmic tree, the fire represented redemption, while the three breads symbolized the Holy Trinity.

The most well-known legend instead attributes the creation of the panettone to a young man named Toni, kitchen boy at the court of Ludovico il Moro, who in 1495, after a kitchen mistake, invented a cake by adding butter, eggs, candied fruit and raisins to bread. This ‘Toni’s bread’ (‘Pan de Toni’) would have been so appreciated that it became a Christmas symbol. Another version features Ughetto degli Atellani, falconer, who to win over the baker’s daughter created a similar cake with the same ingredients, while another legend tells of a nun named Ughetta who enriched the bread dough in the convent with sugar, butter and candied fruit (Porzio, 2007).

Over the centuries, the festive bread evolved from a simple ‘large Christmas bread’ to a leavened sweet. 19th century the term ‘panaton’ (or ‘panatton de Natale’) appeared in Milanese dictionaries (Cherubini, 1839-1856). The industrial spread of panettone then took place in the 20th century with Angelo Motta, who made the cylindrical form tall by wrapping it in straw paper (Porzio, 2007).

Milanese Panettone, ingredients and production process

The specifications of the Typical Milanese Artisan Tradition Panettone rigorously specifies both the allowed ingredients and the processing stages, in order to preserve the product's authenticity and guarantee a high standard of quality (Committee of Master Pastry Chefs of the Milanese Tradition).

The ingredients allowed include water, wheat flour, sugar, fresh eggs or pasteurized or frozen yolks, milk in various technological forms (pasteurized, UHT, condensed, fermented or yogurt), cocoa butter, butter or anhydrous butter, sultana raisins and orange and citron peels candied in appropriate size, natural yeast based on sourdough and salt. Honey, malt, malt extract, vanilla and natural flavors are also allowed. No other ingredient is permitted.

The production process is divided into several phases. It starts with the preparation or maintenance of the sourdough starter, obtained through doughs of flour and water acidified by the natural microflora composed of yeasts and lactic bacteria. Each pastry chef adopts their own refreshment rhythm and fermentation parameters, the result of experience and tradition. These are followed by one or more leavened doughs, which provide intermediate fermentation times and successive additions of ingredients. The final dough is portioned, rounded through the twisting technique and placed in paper molds. The final proofing takes place in the mold and culminates with the cutting, i.e., the cross cut on top of the dough. The panettone is then baked (about fifty minutes at 190°C for a one-kilogram size) and then cooled upside down, an essential step to preserve the soft structure and internal crumb.

The product characteristics Finished product must meet precise standards. The panettone must contain at least twenty percent raisins and candied fruit and at least ten percent butter by dough weight. The structure must be soft, elastic and well aerated, the cylindrical shape with dome must be intact and the crust clearly visible. The aroma is typical of natural fermentation, complex and free of artificial notes.

Nutritional properties

The nutritional values of panettone reported in the food composition tables collected by CREA (Council for Agricultural Research and Analysis in Agricultural Economics) assign on average to 100 g of panettone 337 kcal, carbohydrates 56.2 g of which sugars 22.9 g, fats 10.7 g, proteins 6.4 g.

These data show how panettone is an energy food, rich in simple sugars and fats, typical of celebratory sweets. Natural leavening, characteristic of authentic Milanese Panettone, can improve digestibility and promote better nutrient absorption.

Uses of Milanese panettone

Milanese Panettone is traditionally consumed as a holiday dessert, especially during Christmas, but is also much appreciated for breakfast or snack, accompanied by hot drinks such as tea, coffee or milk. In modern cuisine, Milanese Panettone is also used as an ingredient in more complex desserts, sometimes toasted or in crumble, alongside creams and ice creams. Its soft structure and rich aroma make it suitable for multiple pairings, while maintaining its traditional dimension.

Advice for buyers

For those wishing to purchase an authentic quality Milanese Panettone, it is important to choose artisanal products with natural leavening that respect a traditional specification. It is worth checking the label to ensure that only typical ingredients are present (butter, raisins, candied fruit, eggs, sourdough). The organoleptic profile must be consistent: a true panettone presents a fine aeration, a well-formed dome and a rich but natural aroma.

For international professional buyers, it is crucial to request technical data sheets, laboratory analyses, and confirmation of artisanal production. The team GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade), with its experience in the sector, supports foreign buyers in selecting reliable, certified Italian producers capable of ensuring quality continuity and compliance with traditional criteria.

Conclusions

The Milanese Panettone represents a milestone in Italian pastry: its history is a blend of ancient customs, legends, and modern entrepreneurship. Its production, if guided by traditional regulations, celebrates long natural leavening, noble ingredients, and artisanal mastery that has withstood the test of time. For buyers, whether enthusiasts or professional buyers, careful selection means valuing authenticity and celebrating Milanese tradition.

Dario Dongo

Credit cover: Photo courtesy Federico Vergani

Bibliography

• Cherubini Francesco. Milanese-Italian Vocabulary. Royal Printing House, Milan, 1839-1856

• CREA, FoodNutrition. Food composition tables: Panettone, packed (code 216000, last update December 2019). https://www.alimentinutrizione.it/tabelle-nutrizionali/216000

• Porzio, S. (2007). The Panettone. History, legends, secrets and fortunes of a Christmas protagonist. Guido Tommasi Editor-Datanova. ISBN 8895092317

• Verri, P. (2010). History of Milan (R. Pasta, ed.). Editions of History and Literature. ISBN 9788863721683. Available on IBS: https://www.ibs.it/storia-di-milano-libro-pietro-verri/e/9788863721683