An innovative analysis method, developed by Italian researchers and published in the scientific journal Agronomy, allows verification of the identity and origin of ancient grains. (1) Here’s how and why.
Ancient grains, identity and origin. Opportunities and risks
Agronomic studies Conducted in recent decades, have allowed collecting on territories, analyzing and characterizing the genomic identity of about thirty local populations, mostly durum wheat. (2) It has thus been possible to identify with certainty the 19 species of ancient grains registered in the National Register of Conservation Species, thanks to their genetic fingerprint (fingerprinting). (3)
This first, very important result is however not sufficient to guarantee the consumer regarding the actual origin and purity of the raw material.
The widespread practice Sowing local varieties of ancient grains not coming from batches certified by CREA and the same practice of reusing farm seed – when not accompanied by traditional cleaning and winnowing operations, which allowed discarding stray ears and selecting the best – can however negatively affect the purity of the cultivated grains. In a worrying scenario, from an agronomic point of view, because soft wheat is much more competitive than durum wheat and over the agricultural years tends totake over. With the risk of permanently compromising the identity of the collected seed and the derived products.
Innovative analysis method, the Italian study
The survey On the varieties of wheat used, ancient or modern, it has always been particularly complex regarding products derived from flours and semolinas. Scientific literature reports that ancient grains have a lower gluten index than modern ones and their flours a lower strength (W). However, these parameters have some exceptions and therefore cannot be considered optimal for a unique and definitive comparison. Previous studies to the one under examination, moreover, offer further analytical insights that nevertheless postulate theavailability of uncommon laboratory equipment.
The researchers' study of the universities of Parma and Padua, together with CREA of Acireale (Catania), stands out for having developed an innovative analysis method aimed at effectively tracing some local populations of ancient Sicilian grains. The use of high molecular weight glutenins (High molecular weight glutenins, HMW-GS) as markers indeed allows detecting varietal correspondence and the genetic purity of ancient grains. Consequently, the identity of the semolinas and flours on the market, labeled as monovarietal. (4)
Contaminations with other varieties
The results of the study under examination, subjected to peer-review and published in the prestigious scientific journal Agronomy, have however shown how each of the examined semolinas and flours, although labeled as ‘monovarietal’ (Timilia, Russello, Perciasacchi, Margherito, Maiorca), was contaminated by other local varieties of durum wheat. And even with significant shares of soft wheat (Maiorca) grown on the same farm.
The contaminations can be attributed, according to the authors, to various causes. Among these are the exchange of genetically impure seeds, contamination with other varieties during the harvesting phases due to insufficiently cleaned combine harvesters. The phenomenon is insignificant from a food safety point of view and is clearly devoid of fraudulent intent. However, poor attention to good agronomic practices risks weakening the identity of cultivar.
Identity and traceability
The identity Local wheat populations therefore deserve greater attention. Thanks also to the help of agronomists and researchers committed to promoting the renaissance of areas historically dedicated to cereal growing. Keeping in mind how the cultivation of native grains with historical origins and distinct varieties, not subject to genetic improvement through crossing but locally adapted, can add real value to systems based on traditional agroecology. With further benefit for the environment since such traditional crops withan even negative ecological footprint, that is beneficial for the environment. (4)
Traceability should therefore include a verification of the actual purity of the seeds used, whether purchased, exchanged, or self-produced. With the aim of guaranteeing the actual identity of ancient grains and making, where necessary, the appropriate adjustments. With the goal of consolidating a system whose integrity is increasingly appreciated by consumers, also thanks to the health benefits that scientific research has confirmed in recent decades. (5) Also through innovative tools, such as blockchainpublic where data is recorded in an incorruptible manner. (6)
Dario Dongo and Paolo Caruso
Notes
(1) Visioli G, Giannelli G, Agrimonti C, Spina A and Pasini G (2021). Traceability of Sicilian Durum Wheat Landraces and Historical Varieties by High Molecular Weight Glutenins Footprint. Agronomy 2021, 11, 143. https://doi.org/10.3390/agronomy11010143 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/agronomy
(2) Dario Dongo, Paolo Caruso. Ancient grains, identity and certifications. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 4.6.19, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/certificazioni/grani-antichi-identità-e-certificazioni
(3) Dario Dongo, Paolo Caruso. Genetic characterization of ancient Sicilian grains, scientific study. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 10.10.19, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/progresso/caratterizzazione-genetica-dei-grani-antichi-siciliani-studio-scientifico
(4) Paolo Caruso, Dario Dongo. Ancient grains and climate change fight, scientific study. Food Times. 24.4.19, https://www.foodtimes.eu/it/pianeta/grani-antichi-e-lotta-al-cambiamento-climatico-studio-scientifico/
(5) Dario Dongo, Paolo Caruso. Ancient grains vs modern grains and health, scientific review. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 26.1.20, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/salute/grani-antichi-vs-grani-moderni-e-salute-rassegna-scientifica
(6) Dario Dongo. Public blockchain and agri-food supply chain, sustainability for producers and consumers. Food Times. 28.2.21, https://www.foodtimes.eu/it/pianeta/blockchain-pubblica-e-filiera-agroalimentare-sostenibilita-per-chi-produce-e-chi-consuma/
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
Paolo Caruso, agronomist, collaborates with the Department of Agriculture, Food and Environment of the University of Catania, Section of Agronomy and Herbaceous Crops. Researcher on ancient Sicilian grains.
