Ancient grains vs modern grains and health, scientific review

Ancient grains and modern grains, interactions with the human body and health. A scientific review of rare breadth was published by a group of Italian researchers in the journal  Nutrients. (1)

Genetic aspects

About 10,000 years ago man began the process of domesticating some wheats:

– diploid, like einkorn wheat (Triticum monococcum), and

– tetraploid. Like  Triticum turgidum which has two domesticated varieties, emmer wheat and durum wheat (Triticum durum). Emmer wheat – from which modern varieties descend, although cultivated at limited altitudes compared to other wheats – was also a staple in the diet of the ancient Romans.

Common wheat (Triticum aestivum, hexaploid wheat) does not have any wild equivalent, as it derives from the hybridization of a domesticated emmer wheat with a known wild plant (Triticum tauschii).

Genetic improvement, carried out through crossing and selection, has allowed the introduction and stabilization of some new genes and/or control sequences of the respective genomes. From a nutritional point of view, the selection process has contributed, over a long period of time, to increase starch content at the expense of proteins.

The selection criteria  of the  cultivars moderne, nel XX secolo, sono stati improntati all’incremento delle rese e l’aumento della forza del glutine (da <100W a >300W, per abbreviare i tempi e ottimizzare la trasformazione industriale). Si è così ridotta drasticamente l’altezza della pianta (da 150-180 cm a meno di 50 cm), per concentrare nella spiga la sua potenzialità produttiva della pianta ed evitare l’allettamento.

Sensitivity to gluten, wheat and glyphosate

Wheat  is still the basis of nutrition in many countries. In recent years, the  cultivars of ancient wheat have been brought to general attention because some clinical studies have highlighted their nutritional and health qualities.

The spread of celiac disease, in the last 70 years, is statistically associated – based on studies at blood banks, thus regardless of the increasing attention to diagnosis and theevolution of its methods – with the different quality of gluten contained in modern grains. (2)

Exposure to pollutants  environmental and food-related, it is worth adding, has a definite impact on the microbiome. As has been already reported in relation to pesticides and herbicides, among which glyphosate for example.

The causal relationship between exposure to glyphosate and the occurrence of celiac disease has been among others demonstrated in two MIT studies (Massachusetts Institute of Technology) cited in our free ebook ‘GMOs, the Great Scam’.

Blood sugar and insulin

The glycemic response to the consumption of ancient whole grains such as spelt and rye is indeed lower than that of others  cultivars. Thanks to a  down-regulation of the main genes involved in glucose metabolic processes. (3) Other studies have shown that the complete replacement of modern wheat with  khorasan (also known in the Italian variety Perciasacchi) has produced a reduction in glucose and insulin levels in both healthy individuals and those at high cardiovascular risk. (4)

Traditional varieties of hexaploid soft wheats – such as ‘Verna’, ‘Gentil Rosso’ and ‘Autonomia B’ – in turn produced a significant reduction in blood sugar after eight weeks of testing, as part of a double-blind randomized clinical study conducted on 45 healthy individuals. (5)

Clinical studies  and preclinical studies therefore converge in clearly showing the ability of ancient grains to improve glycemic responses, although an exact explanation of this phenomenon is still lacking. It has meanwhile been verified that – beyond qualitative characteristics – even the industrial processing methods to which cereals are subjected can affect the postprandial glucose response. (6)

Nutrition, health and trace elements

Some ancient grains (e.g. einkorn spelt, emmer wheat and  khorasanAccording to consistent data in the literature, they have a higher content of carotenoids, lutein in particular, compared to modern varieties. Some types of einkorn wheat have shown a lutein content 3-8 times higher than modern soft wheat varieties, 2 times higher than modern durum wheat varieties. (7)

I polyphenols – which have a demonstrated role in the prevention of cardiovascular diseases, diabetes and metabolic syndrome in particular (8) – were measured in 16 ancient wheats and 6 modern ones, grown in the same locality. The highest free flavonoid content was found in five historical varieties (Andriolo, Gentil Rosso Mutico, Marzuolo D’Aqui, Sieve and Verna), the highest values of bound flavonoids were found in 5 vintage grains (Gentil Rosso, Gentil Rosso Mutico, Marzuolo D’Aqui, Marzuolo Val Pusteria and Inallettabile) and intwo modern ones (Eureka and Nobel). (9)

cultivars wheat and microbiome

The human microbiome is involved in various metabolic processes, in addition to the well-known role in the homeostasis of the immune system associated with the intestine. One study, among many cited, showed an overall positive effect of whole grain  khorasan on the microbiota, compared to modern whole grains. (10)

The microbiota of pigs fed for 30 days with a diet based on einkorn wheat (T.  monococcum) – compared to standard modern wheat – on the other hand was enriched with bacteria (genera  Blautia, Faecalibacterium  e Oscillospira) that produce short-chain fatty acids, associated with an increase in metabolic and microbial diversity. This suggests a strong prebiotic effect beneficial for the health of the intestinal ecosystem. (11)

Ancient grains, fatty liver syndrome and anti-inflammatory effects

Particular attention deserves a clinical study that involved 40 patients diagnosed with fatty liver syndrome (Non-Alcoholic Fatty Liver Disease, NAFLD). (12) In this double-blind randomized study, patients followed a wheat-based diet  khorasan as the sole source of wheat (pasta, bread, crackers, biscuits) – or a diet based on modern cereals (pasta, bread,  crackers, biscuits), in the control group – for a period of three months.

The group fed exclusively with products based on  khorasan recorded a significant reduction in blood levels of alanine aminotransferase (ALT), aspartate aminotransferase (AST) and alkaline phosphatase (three significant markers of liver function). In addition to the decrease in blood cholesterol level, as well as significant reductions in the level of some circulating pro-inflammatory cytokines (such as IL-1ra, IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-).

A systemic anti-inflammatory effect was then associated with wheat consumption  khorasan in a recent pilot study of  crossover randomized, which involved 20 professional or semi-professional athletes. (13) In this study, after four weeks of a khorasan wheat-based diet, a significant reduction in blood levels of the MCP-1 protein, a pro-inflammatory chemokine produced by muscles under strain, was recorded.

Blood cholesterol, irritable bowel syndrome

One of the studies most interesting compared the effects of a diet based on the use of three  cultivars of ancient soft wheat (Verna, Gentil Rosso and Autonomia B), compared to a diet based on a modern soft wheat (Blasco). (14) 45 healthy subjects were divided into groups fed with wheat of each single  cultivars. And the consumption of ancient varieties significantly reduced total cholesterol, LDL cholesterol and blood glucose levels.

No differences - in the aforementioned study, compared to the parameters considered - between organically grown grains and those obtained from conventional farming. It would therefore be interesting to consider, in further research, the identity of the microbiota and the presence of antioxidants in organic cereals compared to conventional ones.

Irritable bowel syndrome (Irritable Bowel Syndrome, IBS) was also the subject of a clinical trial on 20 subjects divided into two groups who alternately followed a diet based on  khorasan and a diet based on modern grains. During the feeding period with products based on  khorasan, patients with IBS showed a significant reduction in symptoms associated with a reduction in pro-inflammatory cytokine levels. (15)

Conclusions and prospects

Numerous studies converge on a better supply of proteins and micronutrients – as well as secondary metabolites and polyphenols – in ancient wheats. Clinical studies, conducted on both healthy subjects and patients with diseases, also highlight their significant advantages in terms of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities.

The only limitation of these studies – whose credit goes largely to Italian researchers, with predictably limited resources – is represented by the small number of  cultivars and sometimes also of subjects analyzed. 'Nevertheless, considering the results of all available studies, it is possible to affirm that modern wheats, when subjected to clinical tests, clearly show pro-inflammatory and pro-oxidant activity.’ (1)

‘To state that ancient and modern grains are all the same means deliberately ignoring all clinical studies conducted so far.

The best nutritional qualities of ancient grains should be encouraged by more effective control systems cthat discourage fraud and speculation to the benefit of consumers increasingly willing and interested in buying foods beneficial to health.’ (1)

Dario Dongo and Paolo Caruso

Note

(1) Enzo Spisni, Veronica Imbesi, Elisabetta Giovanardi, Giovannamaria Petrocelli, Patrizia Alvisi and Maria Chiara Valeri. (2019).  Differential Physiological Responses Elicited by Ancient and Heritage Wheat Cultivars Compared to Modern Ones. Nutrients 2019, 11, 2879; doi:10.3390/nu11122879

(2) Kasarda, D.D. (2013).  Can an increase in celiac disease be attributed to an increase in the gluten content of wheat as a consequence of wheat breeding? J. Agric. Food Chem. 2013, 61, 1155–1159.

Rubio-Tapia, A.; Kyle, R.A.; Kaplan, E.L.; Johnson, D.R.; Page,W.; Erdtmann, F.; Brantner, T.L.; Kim,W.R.; Phelps, T.K.; Lahr, B.D.; et al. (2009).  Increased prevalence and mortality in undiagnosed celiac disease. Gastroenterology 2009, 137, 88-93

Lohi, S.; Mustalahti, K.; Kaukinen, K.; Laurila, K.; Collin, P.; Rissanen, H.; Lohi, O.; Bravi, E.; Gasparin, M.; Reunanen, A.; et al. (2007).  Increasing prevalence of coeliac disease over time. Aliment. Pharmacol. Ther. 2007, 26, 1217–1225.

Catassi, C.; Kryszak, D.; Bhatti, B.; Sturgeon, C.; Helzlsouer, K.; Clipp, S.L.; Gelfond, D.; Puppa, E.; Sferruzzan, A.; Fasano, A. (2010).  Natural history of celiac disease autoimmunity in a USA cohort followed since 1974. Ann. Med. 2010, 42, 530-538

(3) Thorup, A.C.; Gregersen, S.; Jeppesen, P.B. (2014).  Ancient wheat diet delays diabetes development in a type 2 diabetes animal model. Rev. Diabet. Stud. 2014, 114, 1035–1045

(4) Sofi, F.; Whittaker, A.; Cesari, F.; Gori, A.M.; Fiorillo, C.; Becatti, M.; Marotti, I.; Dinelli, G.; Casini, A.; Abbate, R.; et al. (2013).  Characterization of Khorasan wheat (Kamut) and impact of a replacement diet on cardiovascular risk factors: cross-over dietary intervention study. Eur. J. Clin. Nutr. 2013, 67, 190–195

(5) Sereni, A.; Cesari, F.; Gori, A.M.; Maggini, N.; Marcucci, R.; Casini, A.; Sofi, F. (2017).  Cardiovascular benefits from ancient grain bread consumption: findings from a double-blinded randomized crossover intervention trial. Int. J. Food Sci. Nutr. 2017, 68, 97–103.

(6) Stamataki, N.S.; Yanni, A.E.; Karathanos, V.T. (2017).  Bread making technology influences postprandial glucose response: A review of the clinical evidence. Br. J. Nutr. 2017, 117, 1001–1012

(7) Hidalgo, A.; Brandolini, A. (2014).  Nutritional properties of einkorn wheat (Triticum monococcum L.). J. Sci. Food Agric. 2014, 94, 601–612.

Abdel-Aal, E.S.M.; Young, J.C.; Rabalski, I.; Hucl, P.; Fregeau-Reid, J. (2007).  Identificazione e quantificazione dei carotenoidi dei semi in specie di frumento selezionate. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2007, 55, 787–794

(8) Durazzo, A.; Lucarini, M.; Souto, E.B.; Cicala, C.; Caiazzo, E.; Izzo, A.A.; Novellino, E.; Santini, A. (8)  Polifenoli: una panoramica concisa sulla chimica, l'occorrenza e la salute umana. Phytother. Res. 2019.

(9) Dinelli, G.; Segura-Carretero, A.; Di Silvestro, R.; Marotti, I.; Arráez-Román, D.; Benedettelli, S.; Ghiselli, L.;Fernadez-Gutierrez, A. (2011).  Profili di composti fenolici in varietà moderne e antiche di grano tenero comuni determinati mediante cromatografia liquida accoppiata alla spettrometria di massa a tempo di volo. J. Chromatogr. A 2011,1218, 7670–7681

(10) Taneyo Saa, D.; Turroni, S.; Serrazanetti, D.I.; Rampelli, S.; Maccaferri, S.; Candela, M.; Severgnini, M.; Simonetti, E.; Brigidi, P.; Gianotti, A.(2014).  Impatto del Kamut® Khorasan sul microbiota intestinale e sul metaboloma in volontari sani. Food Res. Int. 2014, 63, 227–232

(11) Barone, F.; Laghi, L.; Gianotti, A.; Ventrella, D.; Saa, D.L.T.; Bordoni, A.; Forni, M.; Brigidi, P.; Bacci, M.L.; Turroni, S. (2018).  Effetti in vivo del pane di farro (Triticum monococcum) sul microbiota intestinale, metaboloma e sulla risposta glicemica e insulinica nel modello suino. Nutrients 2018, 11, 16

(12) Dinu, M.; Whittaker, A.; Pagliai, G.; Giangrandi, I.; Colombini, B.; Gori, A.M.; Fiorillo, C.; Becatti, M.; Casini, A.; Benedettelli, S.; et al. (2018). Una dieta sostitutiva a base di grano Khorasan migliora il profilo di rischio dei pazienti con malattia epatica steatosica non alcolica (NAFLD): uno studio clinico randomizzato. J. Am. Coll. Nutr. 2018, 37, 508–514

(13) 7. Spisni, E.; Valerii, M.C.; De Fazio, L.; Rotondo, E.; Di Natale, M.; Giovanardi, E.; Posabella, G.; Bregola, V.; Stenico, V.; Sferrazza, R.E.; et al.  Una dieta a base di grano Khorasan migliora il profilo infiammatorio sistemico in giocatori di basket semiprofessionisti: uno studio pilota randomizzato crossover. J. Sci. Food Agric. 2019

(14) Sereni, A.; Cesari, F.; Gori, A.M.; Maggini, N.; Marcucci, R.; Casini, A.; Sofi, F. (2017).  Cardiovascular benefits from ancient grain bread consumption: findings from a double-blinded randomized crossover intervention trial. Int. J. Food Sci. Nutr. 2017, 68, 97–103

(15) Sofi, F.; Whittaker, A.; Gori, A.M.; Cesari, F.; Surrenti, E.; Abbate, R.; Gensini, G.F.; Benedettelli, S.; Casini, A. (2014).  Effect of Triticum turgidum subsp. turanicum wheat on irritable bowel syndrome: A double-blinded randomised dietary intervention trial. Br. J. Nutr. 2014, 111, 1992–1999. [CrossRef] [PubMed]