The growing interest of Italian consumers towards Ancient grains has allowed the products derived from them to reach the shelves of large-scale retail distribution (GDO) in a few years. A phenomenon to be welcomed, as long as the identity of cultivars and the sustainability of local agricultural supply chains are effectively preserved. For this purpose, it is useful to consider the opportunity to resort to certifications or innovative technologies such as blockchain, to better guarantee the authenticity of the products.
Ancient grains, is the word enough?
Thepeasant agriculture – in various regions of Italy, starting from Sicily – has invested in agroecology. Recovering wheat populations with historical origins and distinct identities, not subject to genetic evolutions through crossing but locally adapted, thanks to traditional agricultural systems with an even negative ecological footprint, that is beneficial for the environment.
Consumers more attentive have followed this path since its inception, despite many difficulties. Appreciating both the recovery of agronomic traditions, often anchored to the organic method, and the connection with the territories. But also the idea of a virtuous synergy between eco-agriculture, flavors and health. To the point of considering ancient grains, not without reasons, as true superfoods. And once again, as always, consumers, the true protagonists of the market, have driven demand towards mass market.
A possible criticality however lies in the uncertainty about the identity and origin of the raw materials from which a growing number of references originate. Especially considering that, in this area of the cereal sector, two risk factors of food fraud. The sudden development of the market and the lack of detailed rules. The magic word on the label, consequently, may not be enough.
Scientific survey methods
The investigation of varieties Wheat varieties used, ancient or modern, is particularly complex where the analytical matrices consist of products derived from flours and semolina. Scientific literature reports that ancient grains have a lower gluten index than modern ones, flours have lower strength (W). However, these parameters do have some exceptions and therefore cannot be considered optimal for a unique and definitive comparison. Some studies offer further analytical insights, which moreover assume the availability of specificlaboratory equipment.
The study by a group of researchers from the University of Catania, published in 2011 in Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, showed the ability to identify the ancient variety of wheat 'Timilia', analyzing the protein molecules of the semolina. (2) Researchers from the University of Bari in turn, in 2016, managed to measure the quantity of 'Timilia' semolina in Castelvetrano black bread, thanks to the DHPLC technique (Denaturing High Performance Liquid Chromatography). (3) The Institute of Biology and Agricultural Biotechnology of Milan, in the research just published in Food Chemistry, then made it possible to determine the differences in the composition of foods, based on the ‘fingerprints’ of the DNA of various cereals. (4)
Traceability and records, controls and guarantees
Traceability Basically – which involves the duty to register their suppliers and buyers (excluding final consumers) of individual foodstuffs – has been prescribed to each operator in the supply chain for 14 years now. (1) But documentary verification alone is not enough to prevent fraud that can be carried out through substitution, even partial, of the cereals used. And the subsequent verification of their identity, on flours and semolinas, is objectively complex. The above-mentioned research highlights the need for scientific methodssophisticated that are not directly available to the control authorities.
The registration of varieties of ancient grains in the National Register of Conservation Species, by farmers, represents a first barrier against uncertainty. With the aim of ensuring full traceability of final products derived only from certified seeds, subject to control by CREA and Phytosanitary Services. However, this fundamental step is not enough to guarantee the consumer the actual origin of the raw material. In light of the concrete risk of substitution of ancient grains with common grains (oflower commercial value and perhaps even superior performance in industrial food technology).
The main path followed so far is based on relationships of trust between producers and consumers, in short supply chains and above all ‘harvested’. But the recent entry of large industrial operators and large-scale retail trade has complicated the scenario. The lack of official data and statistics on agricultural production in this field also makes it impossible to compare with the quantities of products on the market.
The guarantee of identity, origin and sustainability of productions therefore deserve to be strengthened. Minimizing the distance between producer and consumer, favoring zero km purchases even if mediated by reliable web platforms. Possibly also through certifications or other tools such as blockchain, capable of irreversibly ‘notarizing’ the seeds grown from which flours and semolina used to produce pasta, biscuits and baked goods come.
Dario Dongo and Paolo Caruso
Notes
(1) Cf. EC reg. 178/02, article 18 (applicable from 1.1.05)
(2) Muccilli et al. (2011). ‘High Molecular Weight Glutenin Subunits in Some Durum Wheat Cultivars Investigated by Means of Mass Spectrometric Technique’. J Agric Food Chem. 2011 Nov 23;59(22):12226-37. doi: 10.1021/jf203139s
(3) Angelica Giancaspro et al. (2016). ‘Varietal traceability of bread ‘Pane Nero di Castelvetrano’ by denaturing high pressure liquid chromatography analysis of single nucleotide polymorphisms’. Food Control 59, Jan 2016;809-817. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodcont.2015.07.006
(4) Silvia Silletti et al. (2019) ‘Untargeted DNA-based methods for the authentication of wheat species and related cereals in food products’. Food Chemistry, 2019 Jan 15, 271:410-418. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2018.07.178
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
Paolo Caruso, agronomist, collaborates with the Department of Agriculture, Food and Environment of the University of Catania, Agronomy and Herbaceous Crops section. Researcher on ancient Sicilian grains.
