The recent investigation by ‘Essere Animali‘ on the farming of gilthead sea bream and European sea bass (branzini) in Greece has spotlighted fish welfare. A very topical issue, since aquaculture is destined to surpass fishing. And savings, unfortunately, come at a cost.
Aquaculture in Greece, the investigation by ‘Essere Animali’
The investigation of animal activists denounces overcrowding in cages of Greek farms, animal suffering, and systematic administration of antibiotics, a primary cause of antibiotic resistance. Killing would also cause unnecessary suffering. (1) Practices against which ‘Essere Animali’ launches a petition on Change.
‘We ask the Organized Large-Scale Retail Trade (GDO) to concretely commit to solving these issues, confirmed as such also by Efsa, Oie and the European Union. Although silent, the suffering of millions of fish cannot be ignored and it is urgent to act immediately, binding supplying farms to adopt policies that end the agony of fish.’ (Essere Animali)
The price drug
The price drug – which still drives purchases in GDO, despite much talk about sustainability – cannot resist farmed Greek fish. Which costs less precisely because of drastic savings on animal welfare and environmental protection:
– the fish density in tanks, in Greek farms, approaches 40 kg/m3. More than double compared to standards provided for organic aquaculture (15 kg/m3) and well above that in farms aiming for production quality (such as in Italy and Croatia). And the greater the density, the more antibiotics are required to prevent disease spread,
‘The farms the ones I follow in Italy never reach a density higher than 20-22 kg/m3. Some facilities are certified antibiotic free, others are not but do not use drugs precisely thanks to the optimal living conditions of the fish. And they are subject to very frequent audits, 30 days a year’ (Maurizio Ribezzo, Innovatio S.r.l.).
– the feed low cost used in Greece and Turkey, but not in Italy, contain fats from terrestrial animals, GMO proteins, and hemoglobin,
– the tanks are installed, literally, a few steps from the shore. An inconceivable hypothesis in Italy, where farms are authorized only offshore, even several miles from the coast, to protect the ecosystem.
Asymmetries and supplies
The asymmetry of the standards of aquaculture applied in different European countries – which we have already noted in salmon farms – emerges brutally. On the other hand, aquaculture in Italy is not able to cover domestic demand. ‘To eat only fish farmed in Italy we would have to reduce consumption by 7-8 times‘, explains Claudio Mazzini, commercial manager of Freschissimi at Coop Italia.
‘We cultivate health’ is the best expression of Coop Italia in aquaculture, after organic production. Only Italian fish, farmed without antibiotics in the last 12 months, with selected feed and limited density. But even Coop cannot give up imports on other product lines at private label, for 45% of supplies. With a preference for Croatia (25%), where the products also have high quality. Followed by Greece (20%) and Malta (10%).
Italy-Greece, gilthead sea bream and European sea bass compared
‘At the hypermarket the same fish costs 5 euros per kg if Turkish, up to 7 euros if Greek, and from 7 to 12 euros per kg if Italian. Origin Turkey or Greece is very popular among consumers, but only for the lower prices. I have seen well-managed facilities in Albania, but fish from that country has no appeal in our market, so it goes elsewhere’ (Maurizio Ribezzo, Innovatio S.r.l.).
Greek fish Farmed fish cost less and yet, compared to Italian ones, they are:
- smaller and fattier, precisely because they come from fast growth cycles in cramped spaces. The average Greek size is 300-600 g, compared to the larger ones (classified as 600-800 g, 800-1,000 g, >1000 g) more common in Italy,
- less fresh. ‘In Italy, the large-scale distribution requests that fish arrive within 24 hours of capture at the sales counter. Fish from Greece instead takes a day and a half. Turkish fish takes 2-2.5 days. The label is always ‘fresh fish’, but the difference is not negligible’, explains Maurizio Ribezzo.
Notes
(1) The association indicates the water and ice stunning system as irregular, which is instead indicated as suitable, after electric stunning, precisely in the Commission's report to the European Parliament and the Council on the possibility of introducing certain requirements regarding the protection of fish during slaughter. See https://ec.europa.eu/transparency/regdoc/rep/1/2018/IT/COM-2018-87-F1-IT-MAIN-PART-1.PDF
Professional journalist since January 1995, she has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and magazines (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). Author of journalistic investigations on food, she published the book 'Reading labels to know what we eat'.
