The production of legumes in Italy is starting to grow again, yet it still faces foreign competition ‘low-cost’
The cultivation of legumes , drastically decreased since the 1960s, is growing again. Especially for chickpeas and lentils. However, this recovery is threatened by foreign competition ‘, which has drastically decreased since the 1960s, is growing again. In particular for chickpeas and lentils. The recovery is, however, threatened by foreign competition'low-cost’, which continues to dominate the national market.
Dependence on foreign legumes does not benefit the preservation of Italian soils. Legumes – beans, lentils, chickpeas, peas, broad beans – are indeed a valuable resource for the agricultural land. Protein crops, sown in rotation with cereals like wheat, naturally enrich the soil.
Legumes, trend reversal in Italy
The national production of chickpeas and lentils is bringing Italy back to a leading role. Eighth in Europe, with about 200,000 tons of product, in the overall production of dry legumes. This emerges from the report on legumes and protein crops – in the global, European, and Italian markets – presented in Bologna on 5.10.18 by the Areté research institute, commissioned by the Agro-food Cooperative Alliance.
In 2017, the approximately 100,000 hectares cultivated in the Bel Paese (+35%) produced 190,000 tons (+37%) of legumes. Particularly notable is the increase in chickpea crops (+72%, second in Europe only to Spain), lentils (+60%, fifth European production), and peas (+52%).
The value of legumes in the field
The production of dry legumes in Italy has experienced a drastic decline over the last half century. From 640,000 tons in the past to 135,000 tons in 2010, an 81% contraction was recorded, inevitably leading to the impoverishment of agricultural soils.
Legumes fix indeed nitrogen to the soils where they are grown. This characteristic has led to defining them as ‘improving’ crops, since they are indeed able to improve the productivity of agricultural soils. In rotation with cereals (soft and durum wheat, barley, spelt, rye), they reduce the use of agrochemicals. (1)
Foreign competition ‘low-cost’
Despite the recovery of native crops, the Italian legume market continues to depend on foreign countries to a significant extent. In 2016, our country imported 65% of the legumes used for direct consumption and further processing. Almost double the European average, which stood at 33%.
The price of foreign legumes is undoubtedly competitive. Their large-scale production has drastically lower costs, despite the areas being less suited to such crops. To the point that drying, in cold climates (Canada and Central Asia), is done using chemicals instead of nature.
The absence of information onorigin on the label itself plays a decisive role in the unconscious choices of consumers. They would surely tend to favor the purchase of foods Made in Italy (all the more so since these are commodities, affordable plant proteins). But the regulation ‘Origin Planet Earth’ has effectively excluded – or in any case nullified, with completely generic phrases (‘EU/non-EU) – the obligation to indicate the origin of the primary ingredient. (2)
Unaware consumers will therefore continue to predominantly purchase legumes dried with agrochemicals in distant countries. Until they are put in a position to make truly informed choices, thanks to the mandatory indication on the label of the origin of raw materials. As European citizens in fact request, in the popular initiative ‘Eat ORIGINal! Unmask your food’, which Great Italian Food Trade supports without reservations.
Marta Strinati and Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) Cf. ‘Minor legumes (chickpea, lentil, grass pea, broad bean)’, monograph edited by Massimo Zaccardelli and others, 2009, on https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/e%252F1%252F7%252FD.070973f9d78d99d49494/P/BLOB%3AID%3D9712/E/pdf
(2) Cf. EU Reg. 2018/775
Professional journalist since January 1995, she has worked for daily newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and magazines (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). Author of investigative journalism on food, she published the book 'Reading labels to know what we eat'.
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
