Grass pea: an ancient Italian legume with modern charm

A  ancient legume with the characteristic  earthy flavor, the  grass pea (grass pea) is re-emerging from its historical roots as a staple food of rural Italy. While its fascinating history and nutritional value are well documented, this article by Great Italian Food Trade (GIFT) provides a comprehensive narrative centered on the production and culture of grass pea in Italy.

We delve deeply into the history of this legume, presenting a detailed summary of the  regional cultivation and the specifics  varieties, showing its contemporary appeal through modern uses such as  artisan gluten-free pasta. To conclude with a practical guide aimed at those who wish to purchase this sustainable and versatile legume.

A taste of history: the origins of the grass pea

The  domestication of  Lathyrus sativus, the botanical name of grass pea, is believed to have taken place in the Balkans around 6000-7000 BC, in parallel with the cultivation of ancient grains (einkorn, emmer). Its presence has been recorded inancient Greece and in Rome, where the Romans called it cicercula. In Italy, grass pea has had significant importance, particularly in the rural areas of the south, serving as a fundamental food source, especially during times of scarcity and famine. The resilience of the plant, capable of thriving in drought conditions, it made it a reliable crop when others failed.

However – with industrial advances and the shift towards more profitable crops after the Second World War – the cultivation and consumption of grass pea in Italy drastically decreased. This change reflected broader socio-economic shifts and the evolution of dietary habits.

The  historical dependence on ‘grass pea’ during famines is dramatically illustrated in Francisco de Goya’s ‘Disasters of War’ series, which includes a print titled  Gracias á la almorta (‘Thanks to the grass pea’), which depicts the debilitating effects of its excessive consumption. Despite this decline, recent decades have seen a  renewed interest in grass pea, driven by young  Italian organic farmers and supported by the  Slow Food movement. This revival recognizes the rich heritage and nutritional value of the legume, leading to its recognition as  Traditional Agri-food Product (PAT) in various Italian regions.

The science of grass pea: botanical characterization and seasonality

Scientifically classified as  Lathyrus sativus L., grass pea belongs to the Leguminosae family, also known as Fabaceae. The  seeds of grass pea are characterized by their  irregular, angular, and flattened shape, with a color range varying from gray to light brown or even white.

The plant itself is a  annual herbaceous vine with thin stems that can reach heights from 0.6 to 0.9 meters. Its leaves are pinnate, with leaflets and tendrils, and the plant produces solitary flowers in shades of white, pink, blue, or purplish-red.

In Italy, the grass pea is typically cultivated as  microthermal crop, sown in autumn or winter, or in spring, with the  harvest which takes place during the summer months, generally between June and August. In particular, the grass pea shows remarkable  tolerance to frost, drought, and can also thrive in  poor soil conditions, contributing to its historical reliability as a food source in difficult environments.

Terroir and varieties

The grass pea has a strong historical connection with the  terroir of central and southern Italy, with cultivation concentrated in regions such as  Marche, particularly the area around Serra de’ Conti, theUmbria, including Colfiorito, the  Lazio, the  Puglia, the  Sardinia, theEmilia Romagna, and the  Molise.

Some areas, such as  Serra de’ Conti in the Marche region and  Colfiorito, nestled in the Umbrian-Marche Apennines, are particularly renowned for their grass pea production, with  microclimates unique and soil compositions that contribute to the distinctive characteristics of the legume.

Other terroir specific, such as  Licodia Eubea in Sicily, cultivate different varieties of grass pea using traditional methods.

Agronomic practices and sustainability

Traditionally, grass pea was sown in spring, often  intercropped with corn, beans, and chickpeas, and then harvested in August. The  agronomic practices contemporary ones involve direct sowing at the beginning of the season, although autumn sowing works in regions with mild winters. The plant blooms in full sun and adapts to various  soil types  from sandy to clayey, preferring well-drained conditions with pH between 6.0 and 7.5, generally avoiding acidity.

This crop has modest soil fertility requirements and thrives with  minimal interventions. Its ability to  fix atmospheric nitrogen makes it valuable in  crop rotation systems, improving the  soil health. Harvesting typically involves leaving the pods to dry naturally before threshing for seed extraction.

From the point of view of  sustainability, the grass pea stands out for requiring few  productive inputs including water, fertilizers, and pesticides. Its adaptability to  marginal soils combined with nitrogen-fixing abilities strengthens its environmental credentials, offering a  climate resilient option. In certain areas, low-impact methods of  cultivation persist. The renewed interest in grass pea among  organic farmers reflects the growing focus on genuinely sustainable agricultural approaches.

Nutritional and health properties

The grass pea boasts a respectable  nutritional profile, with a  high protein contentthat can reach up to 35%. It also provides significant amounts of  carbohydrates, ranging from 48% to 52.3%, and is relatively  low in fat. Additionally, grass pea is a good source of  dietary fiber and essential nutrients, including  B vitamins (B1, B2 and PP), vitamin A, pro-vitamin β-carotene, and various  minerals such as potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, calcium, and zinc.

In particular, grass pea is  the only food source known  of the amino acid L-omoarginine, which may offer potential benefits for  cardiovascular health, hypoxia, Alzheimer’s disease and memory-related issues. It also contains  antioxidants, such as glutathione and ascorbic acid (vitamin C), contributing to overall health.

It is important to highlight the presence of β-N-oxalyl-L-α,β-diaminopropionic acid (β-ODAP) in grass pea, a neurotoxin that can cause a condition known as  lathyrism, characterized by muscle weakness and paralysis, if consumed as the primary protein source for prolonged periods, especially in individuals with malnutrition. However, the moderate consumption of grass pea as part of a balanced diet is generally considered safe. Furthermore,  soaking the beans for a prolonged period (12-24 hours) and  cooking them thoroughly can significantly reduce β-ODAP levels. There are ongoing  breeding programs focused on the development of varieties of Lathyrus sativus with lower or negligible levels of this neurotoxin.

Uses

In the  Italian cuisine, grass pea has traditionally been used in various ways:

• it is a common ingredient in hearty soups and broths and can be transformed into a creamy puree, similar to broad bean puree known as macco;
• the legume can be ground into  flour, which is used to prepare forms of Pasta traditional like maltagliati and pappardelle, as well as a dish similar to polenta called  fracchiata in the Abruzzo region;
• grass pea is also present in regional specialties Italian such as farinata and panissa. In Umbria, it is frequently used as a key ingredient in soups and served as a topping on bruschetta;
• in recent years, the legume has gained significant importance in thegluten-free artisanal pasta industry throughout Italy. Naturally  gluten-free, grass pea flour is an excellent alternative for people affected by celiac disease or gluten sensitivity.

Grass pea pasta

I artisanal pasta producers, particularly in regions like Umbria, Marche, and Sicily, have started to incorporate grass pea flour into their production, creating distinctive pastas with a unique 'earthy' flavor profile and a  higher protein content compared to traditional wheat-based options.

These  special pastas often fall into the  premium segment in both national and international markets, attracting  health-conscious consumers and food enthusiasts looking for authentic Italian products with nutritional benefits.

Some producers have developed  innovative pasta formulations that mix grass pea flour with other gluten-free alternatives such as rice, corn, or buckwheat to create products with optimal cooking properties and textures similar to traditional wheat pasta.

Other uses

In modern cuisine, grass pea is gaining popularity for its use in a wide range of dishes, including soups, stews, salads, and purees, often found in  contemporary Italian restaurants. It can even be used as a base forhummus, offering a regional alternative to chickpeas. The growing interest in  ancient grains e alternative flours has further strengthened the position of grass pea in this growing market segment.

Outside of Italy, grass pea flour  grass pea, known as  almorta in Spanish, is the main component of  gachas manchegas, a traditional dish from the La Mancha region in Spain. Immature grass pea seeds can be eaten like green peas. In  India and in  Ethiopia, grass pea is a versatile ingredient used in the preparation of  dahl, flatbread such as roti and kitta, and various sauces.

Tips for buyers

For food lovers

When purchasing grass pea, whether for personal culinary exploration or to add an interesting ingredient to your pantry, look for  dried legumes that have a uniform color, from gray to light brown or white, and possess their characteristic irregular, angular, and flattened shape.

It is recommended to prioritize  organic options, to support truly sustainable agricultural practices where the use of pesticides and other toxic chemicals is prohibited.

Try to source grass pea from reputable Italian producers or organic stores that focus on authentic high-quality ingredients. Remember that dried grass pea requires soaking for at least 12-24 hours and a complete cooking before consumption, to reduce potential toxins and improve digestibility.

For professional buyers

For professional buyers looking to procure grass peas for their activities, it is advisable to target  regions in Italy with a long tradition of its cultivation, such as Marche, Umbria, and Sicily. Learn about  specific variety offer, since different varieties, such as that of Serra de’ Conti, have unique characteristics like smaller size and a sweeter flavor.

When selecting suppliers, prioritize those who are certified  organic, aligning with the growing consumer demand for environmentally responsible products. Consider intended use of the grass pea – whether you need whole beans for soups and stews or flour for pasta production – as this can influence your choice of supplier and variety.

Our team of  Great Italian Food Trade (GIFT) has extensive knowledge of the Italian agricultural landscape and has established a network of reliable producers across the country. The international buyers seeking to source high-quality organic grass pea can benefit from GIFT’s experience in identifying and connecting with reputable suppliers in Italy.

Conclusions

Grass pea represents a testament to the  rich agricultural heritage of Italy, offering a unique combination of  ancient origins, nutritional richness  e culinary versatility. Its  resilience as a crop and its  adaptability to various conditions underline its historical importance, while its  organic cultivation practices align with modern environmental concerns.

While the presence of β-ODAP requires careful preparation and consumption, ongoing efforts to develop  low-toxicity varieties promise a brighter future for this remarkable legume.

Grass pea, with its  distinctive flavor and texture – which some describe as a crossroads between lentils and chickpeas – is an original and valuable ingredient. It therefore deserves to be  rediscovered and appreciated by a global audience, for a dive into the authentic gastronomic archaeology of Italy and support for the organic farmers who preserve it.

Dario Dongo

Credit photo: © GIFT

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