Farro, the king of ancient grains. Agroecology, resilience and health

Spelt is the true king of ancient grains – with a history of nearly 10,000 years that far exceeds that attributed to wheat khorasan, made famous by the Kamut brand – and today it is a protagonist of agroecology, resilience and health. (1)

The rediscovery of cultivars native ones, which risked being lost following the selections made in recent centuries to develop the most widespread soft wheat today based on them. An in-depth look.

Spelt, 10,000 years of history

Findings in various archaeological sites from the Epipaleolithic period in the Fertile Crescent (Fertile Crescent, from present-day Egypt to Turkey, up to Iran and Saudi Arabia) lead researchers to consider einkorn and emmer spelt among the first cereals cultivated in human history.

The most evident traces date back to 7,500 B.C., in southeastern present-day Turkey, where spelt cultivation had reached its peak. Cultivation then gradually declined from the Bronze Age onward, remaining marginally only in mountainous areas (e.g., France, Italy, Morocco, Turkey) for local consumption and use as fodder.

The rediscovery of spelt in Italy

The rediscovery of spelt, as well as other ancient grains, it is thanks to a few researchers who scoured the countryside in Central-Southern Italy in search of the original populations. Guardian farmers still cultivate spelt in hilly and mountainous areas (300-1,000 m) of Central Italy (e.g. Tuscany, Umbria, Marche) and Northern Italy (e.g. South Tyrol, Valtellina). (2)

Italy is among the few countries where the cultivation of spelt and ancient grains has taken on real economic importance, thanks to the increasing attention both to its nutritional and health properties and to agrobiodiversity and agroecology. Spelt is thus used in the production of pasta, bread, and flours distinguished by their peculiar organoleptic properties and nutraceutical functions.

The three spelt species, botanical classification

In the genus Triticum, spelt differs from common wheat (soft and hard) because its kernels are hulled (‘hulled wheat’), while the spikelets and rachis are more fragile. Threshing and subsequent cleaning operations therefore require some adaptations for this cereal, which is botanically and genetically classified into three species:

T. monococcum.

Einkorn wheat (einkorn wheat), or small spelt, is the richest of the three species nutritionally. It is used to produce flours and has a diploid form with seven chromosomes (2n = 2x = 14),

T. dicoccum.

Emmer wheat (emmer wheat), or 'conventional' spelt, is the most cultivated species. The size of its grains offers a higher yield per seed, and its productivity is higher than the other two species. It has a tetraploid form with seven chromosomes (2n = 4x = 28),

T. spelta.

Spelt (spelt), or large spelt, is the species most used for industrial food processing. Its form is hexaploid, with seven chromosomes (2n = 6x = 42).

Spelt, nutritional properties and health benefits

Compared to other cereals, spelt has a appreciable protein content (with lower gluten content compared to wheat), unsaturated fatty acids, minerals (e.g. iron, zinc) and other bioactive substances (e.g. carotenoids, tocopherols, phenols, phytosterols).

The reduced activity enzymatic (β-amylase and lipoxygenase) also helps to preserve the shelf-life of the products derived from it. Dietary fibers (arabinoxylans, β-glucans, lignin) and some polyphenols in conjugated form, with associated polyphenol oxidase activity, are instead present in lower quantities.

Several scientific studies (Hidalgo & Brandolini, 2013; Dhanavath & Rao, 2017; Biskup et al., 2017) have characterized the composition of spelt and highlighted a series of health benefits associated with the consumption of products derived from it (3,4,5).

Slow digestibility of starch and glycemic control

The slow digestibility of starch and the glycemic index are correlated parameters that determine the hypoglycemic properties of a food.

Starch isolated from spelt is slowly digestible and this property could be due to both the complexity of starch structure and the high amylose content. This starch is therefore suitable for the formulation of hypoglycemic foods.

The inclusion of the flour of T. dicoccum (emmer spelt) in the regular diet of diabetic patients for 6 weeks reduced total lipids, triglycerides, and LDL cholesterol concentrations by 11%.

Fatty acid profile and cholesterol control

The lipid profile of the flour of T. dicoccum, specifically the ratio between PUFA (polyunsaturated fatty acids) and MUFA (monounsaturated fatty acids), shows beneficial effects regarding the control of plasma and hepatic cholesterol levels.

Gluten and reduction of gastrointestinal inflammations

A diet based on spelt has been shown to be able to reduce total lipids, triglycerides, and LDL cholesterol in the blood. Spelt therefore appears potentially able to reduce cardiovascular risk factors, although further randomized clinical studies are needed to request authorization for the use of a specific health claim.

The diet based on T. dicoccum (emmer spelt) is recommended in the diet of people sensitive to wheat, considering the lower gluten content. Also in individuals with intestinal inflammations and high cholesterol. Spelt indeed functions as a mild but effective regulator of intestinal functions.

Reducing sugars

Some varieties of spelt have a low content of total reducing sugars and a low content of monosaccharides such as glucose and fructose, which are more reactive in producing the process contaminant (genotoxic and carcinogenic) acrylamide during cooking.

Tocotrienols, polyphenols, carotenoids and antioxidant properties

Polyphenols, carotenoids and tocols have antioxidant properties and have been reported as beneficial for health in the prevention of cancer, cardiovascular diseases, and diabetes.

The high ratio between tocopherol and tocotrienol (T3/T), in emmer spelt (T. dicoccum), is highlighted for the action hypocholesterolemic. Polyphenols also inhibit the activities of α-amylase and α-glucosidase, thus reducing the postprandial glucose level.

Various properties nutraceutical of spelt are attributed to the content of polyphenols and carotenoids such as lutein, zeaxanthin, and β-carotene, which present various health benefits thanks to their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and immunomodulatory properties. Lutein is also noted for its favorable contribution to eye health and vision.

Agrobiodiversity, agroecology and health

‘Spelt is an excellent cereal with great versatility of use on marginal lands. It can be grown following agroecology or organic farming practices, with low input requirements (e.g. fertilizers) and without the need for agrochemicals. Moreover, spelt is a highly competitive species against major weed species, thus minimizing production losses (albeit with yields lower than soft wheat).

The three species of spelt are essentially destined for different uses (e.g. flour, soup, industrial use). And the small list of its varieties – compared to that of its ‘descendant’ soft wheat, subject to intense genetic selection activities – confirms the ‘rusticity’ of spelt. For this reason as well, it is well suited for organic farming systems. (Virginia Ruspolini, agronomist and agricultural entrepreneur, spelt grower in Umbria). (6)

Italian spelt, the tradition. Monteleone di Spoleto DOP and Garfagnana IGP

In Umbria, near Perugia, in Monteleone di Spoleto, spelt caryopses were found in an Etruscan tomb from the 6th century BC (the ‘chariot tomb’). Cultivation still takes place in mountainous areas (700-1000 m), on calcareous soils that prevent water stagnation during the rainiest seasons. The Monteleone di Spoleto DOP spelt is an emblem of agrobiodiversity, agroecology and health. The DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) refers to the local ecotype of the species Triticum dicoccum, whose grain is processed in four ways:

• whole spelt, with intact brown grains and a dry texture,
• whole cracked spelt, stripped of the outer husk (chaff),
• semi-pearled, with a soft texture and a lighter color,
• spelt semolina, with a velvety texture and very light brown color. (7)

In Tuscany, in the province of Lucca, more than 50 guardian farmers protect Garfagnana I.G.P spelt. The three species of spelt are cultivated under the principles of agroecology and health, in hilly and mountainous areas (300-1,000 m), on soils fertilized with organic substances where the use of herbicides or chemical fertilizers is strictly prohibited. Spelt grown with traditional techniques is indeed registered and certified as an organic product. (8)

Farro, other Traditional Agri-food Products in Italy

The Italian register of Traditional Agri-food Products (PAT) also records various farros and products derived from them that characterize the agricultural and gastronomic history of the Regions in Central-Southern Italy:

• Abruzzo. Farro of Abruzzo,
• Campania. Emmer farro of Sannio, farro bread and pasta,
• Emilia-Romagna. Farro Triticum dicoccum,
• Lazio. Farro, farro of the Lucretili Mountains, Farro of the spur of Acquapendente,
• Marche. Farro Triticum dicoccum, chestnut farro,
• Molise. Molise emmer farro,
• Tuscany. Farro cake of Garfagnana, farro cake.

Technological properties

Spelt, or great farro, is used for the industrial production of various products that stand out, in marketing halo, under the profiles of agrobiodiversity, agroecology and health. Pasta, bread, biscuits and baked goods, but also beer. Research therefore accompanies tradition in identifying the technological properties – endosperm microstructure, physical, thermal properties and specific milling energy – appreciable for processing. A very recent study (Warechowska et al., 2023) offers some useful insights in this regard.

The cultivars Spelt is mainly distinguished, just like wheat, into hard and soft. The vocation of each of these for the production of certain foods rather than others is evaluated in relation to factors such as particle size and milling levels. Regarding the water absorption necessary to promote the viscosity of the dough and its fermentation through yeasts. The high gelatinization temperature, in turn, is relevant for the production process as in the cooking of products (e.g., pasta) and theirdigestibility. (10)

Conclusion and perspectives

Agroecology and health find in spelt a connection ideal that links the oldest cereal tradition of the Mediterranean and the Mediterranean diet – with its countless benefits – to Sustainable Development Goals in the UN 2030 Agenda. The botanical attributes of spelt also allow its cultivation under organic farming, with frugal input in agriculture.

Andrea Adelmo Della Penna and Dario Dongo

Notes

(1) Cooper R. (2015). Re-discovering ancient wheat varieties as functional foods. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine 5:138-143, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2015.02.004 

(2) Zaharieva & Monneveux (2014). Cultivated einkorn wheat (Triticum monococcum L. subsp. monococcum): the long life of a founder crop of agriculture. Genet. Resour. Crop Evol. 61:677-706, https://doi.org/10.1007/s10722-014-0084-7

(3) Hidalgo & Brandolini (2013). Nutritional properties of einkorn wheat (Triticum monococcum L.). J. Sci. Food Agric. 94: 601–612, https://doi.org/10.1002/jsfa.6382

(4) Dhanavath & Rao (2017). Nutritional and Nutraceutical Properties of Triticum dicoccum Wheat and Its Health Benefits: An Overview. Journal of Food Science 82(10):2243-2250, https://doi.org/10.1111/1750-3841.13844 

(5) Biskup et al. (2017). The potential role of selected bioactive compounds from spelt and common wheat in glycemic control. Adv. Clin. Exp. Med. 26(6):1013–1019, https://doi.org/10.17219/acem/61665

(6) The list of plant varieties is available at https://www.sian.it/mivmPubb/autenticazione.do, the list of varieties allowed in organic farming at https://www.sian.it/conSpeBio/index.xhtml

(7) Farro della Garfagnana PGI, production regulations https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/2%252Fb%252F3%252FD.868f862798f5b978962c/P/BLOB%3AID%3D3343/E/pdf?mode=download

(8) Farro di Monteleone di Spoleto PDO, production regulations https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252F7%252F6%252FD.9f7260f960607e310403/P/BLOB%3AID%3D3343/E/pdf?mode=download

(9) National list of traditional agri-food products, 22nd revision (2022). https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252F5%252F8%252FD.f85e9e7414e48e0c2722/P/BLOB%3AID%3D17979/E/pdf?mode=download

(10) Warechowska et al. (2023). The endosperm microstructure, physical, thermal properties and specific milling energy of spelt (Triticum aestivum ssp. spelta) grain and flour. Scientific Reports 13:3629, https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-023-30285-9