Packaged bread according to Esselunga

Bread, once a protagonist of the Italian diet, maintains a central role in Esselunga – the leading Italian group for productivity in the sector  retail - which still produces products under its brand in its own industrial bakery. An in-depth study.

Esselunga, international productivity record

Esselunga has always stood out in mass retailing in Italy and Europe for record productivity. The latest data report €16,970/sqm in annual revenues, +168% compared to the national average of €6,330/sqm (Nielsen Guide – FMCG, first half 2022).

At international level, according to the latest Mediobanca report, Esselunga's productivity in 2020 stood at first place (€15,343/m2), followed closely by J. Sainsbury (€14,047/m2) and Wm Morrisons (€11,293) in the UK, Woolworth (€11,274/m2) and Coles (€11,039) in Australia. (1)

The formula for success

The first supermarket  of Esselunga was opened by Bernardo Caprotti in central Milan, back in 1957. The second in Florence, in 1961, then sixteen others – ten in Milan, five in Florence, one in Pistoia – and the first centralized warehouse, in 1964. Thus began the history of ‘Italian Supermarkets’, with that elongated S from which the ‘Esselunga’ brand derives (literally, ‘Long S’).

The success of Esselunga was instantaneous, thanks to a wide offer of carefully selected products in stores located in central and strategic areas. In the midst  boom of the Italian economic boom, after the post-war recovery. And it has continued steadily, thanks to a wise  mix – high quality at the right price, centrality of stores, solidarity (2) – which has built loyalty among generations of consumers.

Packaged bread according to Esselunga

The production in house of Esselunga-branded bread is in some way emblematic of market trends especially in Northern Italian cities. Below is a brief review of the  category, presented to us by those who work in its production, Andrea Ferretti.

‘White’ bread and ‘semolina’ bread

White bread and semolina bread – made, respectively, with ‘type 0’ soft wheat flour and re-milled durum wheat semolina – are still the best-selling products. Their texture is very soft with a light and not very crunchy crust, after baking at a medium temperature of 360 degrees.

Glycemic load and glycemic index are high (Glycaemic Index  close to 90), due to carbohydrates offered by refined flours. Fat content is among the lowest in Esselunga's ‘bread’ category, which does not include the traditional Italian ’water bread’.

Soft wheat bread. Ingredients list and nutritional values

Soft wheat flour ‘type 0’ 61%, water, Italian extra virgin olive oil (3%), iodized salt, brewer's yeast. Treated with ethyl alcohol. Preserved bread. May contain traces of soy, milk, eggs, sesame seeds, nuts, mustard, lupin.

Soft durum wheat bread, ingredients and nutritional values

Re-milled semolina of durum wheat 58%, water, Italian extra virgin olive oil 3%, brewer's yeast, salt, dextrose. Treated with ethyl alcohol.
Traces: eggs, lupins, milk, mustard, nuts, sesame seeds, soy.

Wholemeal bread and six-grain bread

The wholemeal is characterized by higher contents of dietary fibers, including soluble ones – a elixir of long life, as seen – and a lower glycemic index, compared to classic white bread and semolina bread. Esselunga’s wholemeal is a true wholemeal, meaning made with wholemeal flours (instead of refined flours with added bran).

The 'six cereals' has a commendable fatty acid profile, thanks to the presence of extra virgin olive oil, sesame seeds, and flax seeds. Both products also have a lower salt content compared to Esselunga's 'white breads' and are therefore preferable in the balance between flavor and health.

The cooking temperature in the oven is very similar to that of white and semolina bread, but the structure of whole wheat and multi-cereal breads is harder and more compact, less soft and crunchier.

Soft wholemeal bread, ingredients and nutritional table

The flour is whole soft wheat (58%), followed by water, Italian extra virgin olive oil (3%), brewer's yeast, salt, dextrose. The presence of gluten is indicated, although obvious. And the 'may contain’ of eggs, lupins, milk, mustard, nuts, sesame seeds, soy.

Soft six-grain bread, ingredients and nutritional table

The multi-cereal is based on 'type 0' soft wheat flour (36%), water, '00' type soft wheat flour (8%), sesame seeds (3%), Italian extra virgin olive oil (3%), whole soy (3%), corn flour (1.9%), flax seeds (1.9%). Whole rye flour (1.9%), oat flakes (1.8%), dried wheat sourdough, brewer's yeast. Salt, barley flour (0.8%), millet seeds (0.5%), dextrose, gluten, wheat malt flour.

‘Balance’ line. Protein bread and bread with three farros

The ‘Balance’ line  by Esselunga includes two baked products, protein bread and three-spelt bread. Although sales volumes are still far from traditional breads, the trend of foods with proteins highlighted on the label front is clearly rising.

The vegetable proteins  of soy and wheat characterize the protein bread which is also rich in fiber, has the lowest glycemic index and sodium content in the Esselunga branded bread category. With a commendable variety of seeds (flax, sunflower, sesame, pumpkin). The baking is also slower, about 6 minutes, to reduce moisture content.

The ‘bread with three farro wheats’  It holds the record for fiber richness (which also leads to a greater sense of satiety after consumption, editor's note) and low glycemic index among Esselunga breads. Compared to the protein bread of the same brand, its structure is softer, sodium content higher, and moisture level slightly lower.

Soft protein bread, ingredients and nutritional values

Water, flour Soft wheat flour 'type 0' (31%), whole wheat flour (6%), flax seeds (6%), wheat gluten, sunflower seeds (3%), sesame seeds (7%). Soy grits (2%), powdered sour rye dough, soy flour (1%), pumpkin seeds (1%), brewer's yeast, pea bran, toasted sesame oil, salt, phosphate malt rye flour, dehydrated yeast.

Soft bread with three farros, ingredients list and nutritional values

Wheat flour Soft 'type 0', water, emmer blend 12% [wheat (emmer) whole spelt 8%, wheat (emmer) 2%, wheat (emmer) dicoccum 2%], sunflower seeds 2.5%, wheat fibers, wheat gluten, sugar, brown flax seeds 2%, barley malt powder extract, powdered whey, brewer’s yeast, millet seeds 1.2%, whole wheat (emmer) sourdough powder 1.2%, salt, fermented wheat starch, sunflower seed oil.

Brioché bread

The pain brioché completes the  category Esselunga bread with a sweet flavor and a very soft texture, favored by the use of a patented emulsion with butter and moderate amounts of sugar, as well as egg yolk.

A typical breakfast food, subjected to gentler baking (around 300 °C) compared to other breads, light brown on the outside and yellow inside due to the presence of egg yolk, with low moisture.

Brioché bread, ingredients and nutritional table

Also the pain brioché is made with soft wheat flour 'type 0', water, sugar (9%), anhydrous butter (6%), fresh free-range Italian egg yolk category A (5%), brewer's yeast, skimmed milk powder (1%), salt, mono- and diglyceride emulsifiers of fatty acids, malted wheat flour, flavors.

Dario Dongo

Notes

(1) Mediobanca Study Area. Observatory on GDO with a predominance of food. 17.3.22. See slide 21, comparison between foreign and national operators

(2) Dario Dongo. From schools to beaches, brilliant initiatives of GDO in Italy. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 7.9.19