Plant-based burgers are increasingly widespread and appreciated, not only by vegetarians and vegans. The basic ingredients always consist of a mix of legumes, cereals, and vegetables. The characteristics of the products vary significantly, due to both the addition of salt and additives, and the levels of fats, saturated fats, and proteins. As well as the nature, conventional or organic, of the foods.
The market survey conducted by GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) between January 5 and 19, 2024 offers the possibility to compare 57 products sold in Italy with industrial brand, private label, and discount.
Plant-based burgers, 57 compared
The sample consists of 9 private label (MDD) products, 12 discount, 15 industry brand, and 21 organic. With cross-analysis, among the 57 products, of 11 plant-based burgers labeled as 'gluten-free'.
Nutritional composition sometimes betrays the declared goal of offering plant-based burgers as a 'healthy' alternative to meat-based hamburgers:
- saturated fats and salt in some cases reach significant levels;
- food additives are not lacking. Four of these – methylcellulose (E461), guar gum (E412), carob seed flour (E410), and xanthan gum (E416) – can cause gastrointestinal disturbances. Three others – sodium acetate (E262), potassium sorbate (E202), and potassium hydroxide (E525) – are not authorized in organic products.
Fiber and proteins
Nutrition claims the most present on vegetable burger labels refer to the presence or richness in fiber and proteins. It is useful in this regard to remember the differences between the various indications:
- ‘source of fiber’ or ‘contains fiber’ means that the food contains at least 3 g of fiber per 100 g, or 1.5 g of fiber per 100 kcal;
- ‘high fiber content’, ‘rich in fiber’ expresses a double content, i.e. at least 6 g of fiber per 100 g, or 3 g of fiber per 100 kcal;
- ‘source of proteins’ and ‘high protein content’ (High protein)‘ indicate that at least 12% and 20% of the food's energy value, respectively, is provided by proteins.
Vegetable burgers, the discount offer
In the discount channel, which continues to grow driven by rising prices, we have selected 12 vegetable burgers offered by Eurospin, Lidl and Todis, all described in the table below.
Nutritional data more interesting, as follows:
- saturated fats. 2.62% average, in a very wide range from 0.8 to 9.2%;
- fiber. 25.4g% the average of 7 products out of 12. The five Lidl products omit indicating the quantity (not mandatory but recommended, particularly on this type of product);
- salt. 1.31% average, between a minimum of 0.90% and a (worrying) maximum of 1.70%.
The average price of the products examined in discounts is €11.80/kg. With variations from €9.94/kg for Todis Artichoke and sun-dried tomato Veggie Burger to €14.05/kg for Lidl’s Next Level Burger.
The two mentioned products offer the opportunity to introduce some points of comparison:
a) the cheapest, offered by Todis, stands out for three elements:
– the highest added salt content in discount burgers (1.70%),
– few healthy fibers (1.8%),
– use of the additive methylcellulose (E 461), which may have laxative effects. Note that all 12 discount products contain additives,
b) the most expensive, Lidl's Next Level, contains
– the highest amount of saturated fats (9.2%, abominable) and
– as many as three additives and two synthetic flavorings. Among the latter, particular attention should be paid to the smoke flavors, indicated as potentially genotoxic in the latest EFSA opinion.
Vegetable burgers under distributor brand
The ‘own-label’ (or ‘private label’) of the Large Organized Distribution in turn show continuous growth, also (but not only) due to food inflation. The 9 products from Carrefour, Coop and Esselunga compared here (see table) are all non-organic. Other products from Coop and Conad are instead included in the group of organic burgers, which we will see later.
In this group, the average price is €15.15/kg and ranges from €11.27/kg for Coop's Burger gli Spesotti (the ‘first price’ line, introduced in November 2023 as a measure against inflation) to €19.50/kg for the pea protein burger of the same brand.
The average protein content is 10.7g per 100g of product, with significant variability from 4.5g in Carrefour's eggplant medallions to 16g in Coop (flax and pumpkin seeds) and Esselunga (soy based).
Saturated fats and salt
Among vegetable burgers under retail brand, three products stand out for unbalanced nutritional profiles compared to the category average:
– the pea protein burger from Coop, besides being the most expensive, stands out for the high saturated fat content (7.7%, versus an average of 1.94%), probably due to the presence of coconut oil in the recipe, as well as the addition of synthetic flavors and methylcellulose (like three other private label burgers),
– Carrefour Veg Bulgur Medallions are high in salt (1.70%, against an average of 1.24%),
– Esselunga's soy and spinach burgers also have an excessive salt content (1.70%).
Branded industry
The Italian leader in the sector is Kioene, with 5 vegetable burgers under its own brand (unfortunately not organic) as well as various others under retail brands (Esselunga, Conad) and discount (Lidl, Todis), also in organic version,
The closest comparison in prices is between Kioene and Nestlé (Garden Gourmet brand), around €15-16/kg, compared to an average of €17.83/kg and a range between €14.25 and €22.69/kg.
Only 4 of the 15 industrial brand products, note well, they are free of food additives.
Only 4 products without additives
From a nutritional point of view, it is observed that
– saturated fats reach the level of 6.5g per 100g of product in the two Unconventional Burgers. A content almost triple compared to the average of the 15 products (2.2%), and closer to that of many meat hamburgers, as we have seen. This operator is also the only one among the 15 that together with Nestlé adds synthetic flavors,
– salt peaks at 1.70% in the Kioene Burger, compared to an average of 1.18%, with wide variations between 0.40g (Nestlé soy proteins) and 1.50g per 100g of product (Kioene broccoli and kale),
– proteins, often listed on the label, average 10.75g per 100g of product. The minimum amount (4.5g) is found in the Nestlé Garden Gourmet carrot broccoli miniburgers. The maximum level (21g) in the same brand's flavored soy burger,
– fibers, finally, range between 1.6g per 100g in the Kioene eggplant burger and 9g in the Burger’Z quinoa spinach and kale by Zerbinati.
The burger for ‘flat belly’
The tofu burger is interesting parmigiana style by Compagnia Italiana, which with the claim ‘flat belly’ positions itself as a vegetarian food low in FODMAPs (Fermentable Oligo-Di-Monosaccharides and Polyols), that is, short-chain carbohydrates poorly absorbed by the intestinal walls and fermented by the bacteria of the intestine itself, particularly unsuitable for those suffering from irritable bowel syndrome.
Moderate in salt addition (0.78%), this product contains the highest fat content (17%) among those of industrial brands, with 2.9% saturated fat (the average is 2.2%).
The charge of organic vegetable burgers
The widest offer and qualitatively fine vegetable burgers belong to organic, perhaps more seasoned to meet the demand for balanced and sustainable veg products. As many as 21 organic vegetable burgers are easily available in supermarkets (Coop and Conad) and in major specialized chains (Naturasì and Più Bio, in our sampling).
The invisible values These values concern the true sustainability of agricultural productions, respecting the only internationally codified method, as well as the absence of pesticide residues and other agrotoxins in vegetables, legumes, and every other ingredient. Forget ‘conventional’ grains and Canadian lentils dried with glyphosate.
The visible ones, stated on the label, once again highlight the superiority of organic in terms of healthiness: rare (2 out of 21) food additives, among the few authorized in the organic sector, and ‘clean labels’.
Expensive but good
The average price of organic vegetable burgers is 22.63 euros/kg. Higher than the prices of all non-organic products, from 17.83 €/kg for industrial brands to 15.15 €/kg for ‘private label’, down to 11.80 €/kg for discount brands. Quality comes at a price, even if excessively compared to the cost differences of raw materials.
The price range, even in organic, is quite broad. Savings come with distributors’ ‘own-labels’, thanks to Conad Verso Natura and Coop Viviverde which remain below 18 €/kg, in line with non-organic industrial brand prices.
The organic recipe
The nutritional values of organic burgers confirm greater attention to health in this production sector:
– saturated fats average 1.44g per 100g of product, less than in the previously examined non-organic categories,
– salt, as above, is on average present at 1.11%, with a range from 0.90g to 1.50g (always per 100g of product),
– fiber, 4.29% on average, varies in 21 samples from a minimum of 2.4% to a maximum of 9.7%,
– proteins, averaging 9.7%, fluctuate in the sample from 3.4 to 16%, as shown in the table.
Gluten and other allergens
Allergic people must pay particular attention when choosing vegetable burgers. In some cases, the label highlights ‘soy-free recipe’ or ‘gluten-free’, with an asterisk that on the back of the package specifies however the possible presence of allergens (various cereals containing gluten) ‘in traces’.
This is the case for some Kioene products with 'soy-free recipe' but subject to possible cross-contamination (Kioene vegetable miniburgers with broccoli and kale, Original vegetable miniburger with pumpkin and carrots, and vegetable miniburgers with broccoli and kale).
Out of 57 products compared, 11 specify the absence of gluten. As shown in the table, the products are always organic, except for two cases (La Fattoria Veg, in the two versions basil-pine nuts and carrot-thyme). The latter, however, also highlights 'soy-free' on the label, only to specify on the back its possible 'trace' contamination. At risk of handcuffs in case of anaphylactic shock in allergic consumers.
Marta Strinati
Professional journalist since January 1995, she has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and magazines (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). Author of investigative journalism on food, she published the book 'Reading labels to know what we eat'.
