Italian raw ham: regulations, market and bioactive peptides

This category intercepts consumption segments differing by price, formats (whole, boned, slices, sliced) and  distribution channels (large-scale retail trade, HoReCa, collective catering), contributing to the international competitiveness of  Italian cured meat sector and the enhancement of local production chains that are not part of the PDO/PGI circuits.

Market analysis: the record of Italian exports in 2024

According to the data presented on the occasion of the Annual Assembly of  ASSICA (Association of Meat and Cured Meat Industries, member of Confindustria) held in Brussels on June 26, 2025, and the preliminary data  ISTAT, the Italian cured meat sector closed 2024 with record production and export results, despite a decline in domestic consumption.

The overall production of cured meats in Italy reached  1.165 million tons (+1.2% compared to 2023), for a value of about  9.463 billion euros (+3.2%). In the specific sector of  seasoned raw hams, production stood at  271,700 tons (+1.9%), with an estimated value of  2.521 billion euros (+5%). Raw and cooked hams together represent 48.6% of total production by quantity and 51.1% by value.

I internal consumption of cured meats have slightly decreased, settling at 984,000 tons, (-1.3%), with a per capita consumption of  16.5 kg/year, or 45 g/day (-1.3%). The internal consumption share of raw ham corresponds to 21% of the total.

On the front ofexport, the sector has instead reached a historic milestone: total cured meat exports exceeded  2.378 billion euros (+9.5% in value) for a total of 229,888 tons (+12.9%). Exports of  seasoned raw hams reached 1.009 billion euros (+8.5%), with 74,297 tons exported (+8.2%). Growth was driven by the European Union (50,618 t, +9.4%) and supported in some extra-European markets.

From ancient Rome to today: the evolution of ‘perexsuctum’

The history of raw ham Italian roots lie in pre-Roman civilizations. The first traces of salting of the pork leg date back to the  Po Valley Etruscans settled between Parma and Mantua (6th-5th century BC), who initiated the production chain then inherited by the Romans. The name itself of the product reveals this continuity:  ham derives from vulgar Latin  perexsuctum (or  perexutus), meaning 'dried out', indicating the dehydration that transforms the fresh leg into a stable food at room temperature.

Cato the Censor, in  On Agriculture (2nd century BC), describes precisely the techniques of salting and curing of pork legs, essentially identical in foundation to those still codified today. Pliny the Elder, in the  Natural History, praises the quality of the cured meats of Norcia. The famous ‘Panisperna’ street (bread = bread,  ham = pork leg), in the heart of Rome, testifies to the centrality of the product in ancient urban nutrition.

In the Middle Ages, the Lombards intensified pig farming and refined curing techniques, with the most suitable territories emerging: Parma, Friuli and Mantua. The Larderer Guilds codified the production processes, definitively separating raw ham and cooked ham. In the Renaissance, aged raw ham dominated princely tables and appeared in gastronomic treatises. The  industrial production developed starting from the 19th century, alongside the rise of the first structured ham production facilities in the Po Valley. The first legal recognition of Prosciutto di Parma dates back to 1970, followed by the European PDO in 1996.

The new regulation: what is established by the Ministerial Decree of 8 August 2025

The  interministerial decree August 8, 2025 — containing the 'regulation of the production and sale of certain cured meat products' — establishes the requirements that a Made in Italy product must meet to be presented and marketed in Italy as  aged raw ham. This is a true ‘ex lege’ regulation, binding even for products without Geographical Indication.

Definition

Without prejudice to the specific provisions established by the production regulations for aged raw hams recognized as Geographical Indications pursuant to Regulation (EU) 2024/1143, the  generic denomination ‘aged raw ham’ is reserved for the cured, non-smoked meat product obtained from pork legs by means of  traditional technique, based on dry salting and controlled temperature curing (Ministerial Decree 8.8.2025, art. 11).

The raw material It consists of whole pork legs with external fat of white color, not greasy, moderate marbling, and clear rind free of relevant anomalies. Sows' legs, PSE (pale, soft, exudative) or DFD (dark, firm, dry) meat, legs with bone fractures or missing the hip are not allowed. The use of frozen legs is allowed, provided that the labeling requirements under Reg. (EU) No 1169/2011 (DM 8.8.2025, art. 11) are applied.

Allowed ingredients

In addition to edible salt (including iodized salt), the decree allows: pepper, truffle, flavorings, simple sugars (dextrose, fructose, sucrose), nitrites and nitrates, potassium chloride and sodium substitutes, antioxidants and acidity regulators (lactic acid, acetic acid, citric acid and their salts). Other additives are prohibited, except those permitted by Reg. (EC) No 1333/2008 in the presence of real technological necessity (DM 8.8.2025, art. 12).

Processing stages

The production process of  aged raw ham is divided into the following phases:

• salting: sprinkling with dry salt. Immersion salting and brine injection are prohibited;

• resting: cold drying after removal of residual salt; minimum duration 40 days (55 days for legs over 11 kg);

• washing: removal of surface salt residues with lukewarm water;

• drying: surface dehydration under controlled humidity and temperature conditions. Smoking and accelerated maturation techniques are prohibited.

• larding: application of a mixture of lard, rice flour, salt, pepper and flavorings to limit excessive dehydration of the lean meat.

• Aging: maturation at controlled humidity and temperature; stewing, temperatures above 22 °C, and accelerated maturation are prohibited. 'The finished, intact product is stable at room temperature' (DM 8.8.2025, article 13).

Minimum weight and process duration

The aged raw ham, ready for consumption, has a minimum weight of 6 kg with bone. The  minimum duration of the production process is 7 months (9 months for hams with a final weight over 8 kg. DM 8.8.2025, article 14).

Physico-chemical and organoleptic characteristics

The internal lean fraction (biceps femoris muscle) is defined by the following average values:

• moisture less than 64%;

• product  salt × moisture < 500;

• index of proteolysis < 30%;

• proteins > 24%.

The cured raw ham must also have the following organoleptic characteristics:

• ‘color uniform red at the cut

• free of infiltrations, discolorations, or cavities and presents

• typical aged smell and taste, with moderate salty perception and absence of rancid tastes, as well as

• soft consistency, not fibrous upon chewing’ (Ministerial Decree 8.8.2025, article 15).

The product can be marketed whole, deboned, in slices, sliced or in other forms (e.g. cubed, ‘matchstick’. Ministerial Decree 8.8.2025, article 16).

Quality biochemistry: how aging transforms the meat

The production process of cured raw ham activates complex  biochemical reactions that determine its sensory profile and nutritional and functional properties:

• during the salting, drying and aging phases,  muscle proteins and fats are progressively hydrolyzed by the action of endogenous enzymes – cathepsins (B, D, H, L), calpains, aminopeptidases, carboxypeptidases – generating a wide variety of  low molecular weight peptides and free amino acids that contribute to the development of aroma, umami flavor and slice tenderness (Harkouss et al., 2015);

• theproteolysis index (non-protein nitrogen to total nitrogen ratio) is the key technical parameter to assess the degree of maturation: optimal levels (< 30% according to Ministerial Decree 8.8.2025) ensure the balance between aromatic development and tissue structure maintenance, while excessive levels produce defects of adhesiveness and pastiness (Petričević et al., 2018);

• the reduction ofwater activity (a~w~) during aging is also the main mechanism of  microbiological safety: the concentration of salt in the tissues, combined with progressive dehydration, inhibits pathogen growth without the need for heat treatments or accelerators, nor preservative additives

Temperature, salt content, and humidity are the  key process factors that determine the final quality of the product:

• the interaction between proteolysis, lipolysis (lipid oxidation), and muscle structure, controlled by the environmental curing conditions, in fact defines the aromatic intensity, tenderness, and slice color (Harkouss et al., 2015);

• The proteolysis prolonged enzymatic activity during curing also increases the bioavailability of proteins compared to fresh meat, making dry-cured ham one of the most easily digestible animal protein foods.

The prohibition on the use of accelerated maturation techniques, established by Ministerial Decree on August 8, 2025, is therefore functional to the organoleptic and nutritional quality of Made in Italy dry-cured ham.

Nutritional profile and benefits of raw ham

Based on the  Food composition tables of CREA (Food and Nutrition Research Center), 100 grams of dry-cured ham provide on average:

• energy: 235 kcal;

• protein: 27.8 g;

• fat: 13.7 g, of which saturated fatty acids 4.84 g, monounsaturated 6.35 g and polyunsaturated 1.88 g;

• carbohydrates: 0.1 g;

• salt: 6 g (to be checked case by case on the label of individual products).

As for the trace elements, dry-cured ham is:

• rich in potassium: 621 mg per 100 g, equal to 31.1% of the Nutrient Reference Value (2000 mg) indicated in Annex XIII of Regulation (EU) No 1169/11;

• Source of Phosphorus: 196 mg, equal to 28% of the NRV (700 mg);

• Source of Selenium: 15 μg, equal to 27.3% of the NRV (55 μg);

• Source of Zinc: 2.1 mg, equal to 21% of the NRV (10 mg).

Also noteworthy is the generous supply of dry-cured ham in vitamins of the B group:

• extraordinarily rich in vitamin B6: 1 mg, equal to 71.4% of the NRV (1.4 mg);

• rich in thiamine (vitamin B1): 0.58 mg, equal to 52,7% of the NRV (1.1 mg);

• rich in niacin (vitamin B3): 5.45 mg, equal to 34.6% of the NRV (16 mg);

• Source of Vitamin B12: 0.38 μg, equal to 15.2% of the NRV (2.5 μg).

The  sodium content is high (on average 2400 mg/100 g), a physiological consequence of traditional salting: this aspect requires moderate consumption within a balanced diet, particularly for subjects with arterial hypertension or impaired renal function.

The systematic review by Jiménez-Colmenero et al. (2010), published in  Meat Science, is still the fundamental reference for the  nutritional composition of raw ham and for strategies to improve the nutritional profile of the product.

In the context of the  contemporary Mediterranean diet, aged raw ham can be included as a quality protein food, favoring moderate portions (40-60 g) and pairings with fresh vegetables, legumes, and whole grains. Attention to sodium remains the main recommendation for conscious consumption.

Micronutrients focus: vitamins and minerals

Bioactive peptides: functional and antihypertensive properties

Recent research has shown how the proteolysis that occurs in the aging process of raw ham generates  bioactive peptides with relevant functional properties:

• a research published in  Food Research International identified and quantified over 9,000 peptide sequences in raw hams from Parma, Teruel, and Belgium, detecting ACE (angiotensin-converting enzyme) inhibitory activity over 70% in the studied fractions, with potential antihypertensive effects (Mora et al., 2016);

• a randomized clinical trial published in  Journal of Functional Foods highlighted beneficial effects of regular consumption of raw ham rich in bioactive peptides on  cardiovascular markers, including reduction of systolic blood pressure and improvement of inflammation indicators in subjects with risk factors (Montoro-García et al., 2017);

• a systematic review published on  International Journal of Molecular Sciences has further documented the role of di- and tripeptides in the modulation of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antidiabetic response in in vitro, in vivo studies and preliminary human trials (Heres et al., 2023);

• the most recent scientific review, published in  Antioxidants, confirms that the bioactive peptides of aged raw ham represent an emerging frontier also with a view to the development of nutraceutical ingredients (Hernández Correas et al., 2025).

Usage guide: pairings and formats for modern consumption

The versatility of  aged raw ham is expressed in a wide repertoire of uses. Raw, it is the star of appetizers, mixed platters and aperitifs; it is classically paired with unsalted bread (Tuscan sciapo, Romagna flatbread), focaccias, fresh fruit (melon, pears, figs, grapes) and soft cheeses. Cooked, it wraps white meats and vegetables (rolls), enriches first courses, gourmet pizzas and rustic savory pies.

I modern consumption reflect new food trends: raw ham finds space as a topping for protein bowls, complete salads, premium street food and as an ingredient in ‘fusion’ recipes. For the  international markets, the product adapts to ready-to-eat formats, single-serve portions and innovative packaging (skin trays, flow-pack) functional for quality fast catering.

The  wine pairings range from fresh and mineral whites (Vermentino, Pinot Grigio, Soave) to classic method sparkling wines — Franciacorta DOCG, Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, Trento DOC — up to light and low-tannin reds such as Bardolino or Lambrusco dry. Internationally, the product is also suitable for pairing with hoppy craft beers or with natural wines gaining popularity among younger urban consumers.

Conclusions

The  Italian aged raw ham constitutes a strategic asset of the national deli meat sector, often underrepresented in the media narrative of  Italian food Made in Italy. The updated regulatory definition by  Decree August 8, 2025 it strengthens the clarity of denomination, consumer protection, and fair competition, enhancing the authentic production method — dry salting and controlled temperature aging — even outside the DOP/IGP circuits.

In a market context marked by  cost pressures (raw materials, energy, PSA), a declining domestic market and an international demand sensitive to the quality/price ratio, this category can play a key competitive role — provided it invests in informational transparency, consistent quality, research on functional peptides and innovative formats, maintaining a strong link with the original production method.

Dario Dongo

Credit cover: Istituto Valorizzazione Salumi Italiani

References

Regulatory and institutional sources

• CREA – Council for Agricultural Research and Economics Analysis (2023). Nutritional value of Italian cured meats. Rome: CREA – Food and Nutrition.  https://www.crea.gov.it/web/alimenti-e-nutrizione/-/valore-nutrizionale-dei-salumi-italiani

• Ministry of Enterprises and Made in Italy. (2025, August 23). Decree August 8, 2025: Regulation of production and sale of certain cured meat products. Official Gazette General Series no. 195 of 08/23/2025. http://www.gazzettaufficiale.it/eli/id/2025/08/23/25A04704/SG

• Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 25 October 2011 on the provision of food information to consumers. Latest consolidated text: 01/04/2025  http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2011/1169/2025-04-01

Market and sector sources

• ASSICA – Association of Meat and Cured Meat Industries. (2025, June).  Annual Report 2024 – scenarios, analysis and data. ASSICA. https://www.assica.it/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Assica_Rapporto-2024-web-singole.pdf

• ASSICA – Association of Meat and Cured Meat Industries. (2025, June 26). Italian cured meats: production and exports grow in 2024, but domestic consumption decreases. https://www.assica.it/news/salumi-italiani-nel-2024-cresce-la-produzione-ed-export-ma-calano-i-consumi-interni-2/

• ASSICA – Association of Meat and Cured Meat Industries. (2025, July). Significant growth in 2024 for cured meat exports. https://www.assica.it/news/importante-crescita-nel-2024-per-lexport-salumi/

Peer-reviewed scientific studies

• Harkouss, R., Astruc, T., Lebert, A., Gatellier, P., Loison, O., Safa, H., Portanguen, S., Parafita, E., & Mirade, P.-S. (2015). Quantitative study of the relationships among proteolysis, lipid oxidation, structure and texture throughout the dry-cured ham process.  Food Chemistry, 166, 522–530. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2014.06.013

• Hernández Correas, N., Liceaga, A. M., Abellán, A., Muñoz-Rosique, B., & Tejada, L. (2025). Bioactivities derived from dry-cured ham peptides: A review.  Antioxidants, 14(8), 1011. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox14081011

• Heres, A., Mora, L., & Toldrá, F. (2023). Bioactive and sensory di- and tripeptides generated during dry-curing of pork meat.  International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 24(2), 1574. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms24021574

• Jiménez-Colmenero, F., Ventanas, J., & Toldrá, F. (2010). Nutritional composition of dry-cured ham and its role in a healthy diet.  Meat Science, 84(4), 585–593. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.meatsci.2009.10.029

• Montoro-García, S., Zafrilla-Rentero, M. P., Celdrán-de Haro, F. M., Piñero-de Armas, J. J., Toldrá, F., Tejada-Portero, L., & Abellán-Alemán, J. (2017). Effects of dry-cured ham rich in bioactive peptides on cardiovascular health: A randomized controlled trial.  Journal of Functional Foods, 38, 160–167. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jff.2017.09.012

• Mora, L., Escudero, E., & Toldrá, F. (2016). Characterization of the peptide profile in Spanish Teruel, Italian Parma and Belgian dry-cured hams and its potential bioactivity.  Food Research International, 89(Pt 1), 638–646. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodres.2016.09.016

• Petričević, S., Marušić Radovčić, N., Lukić, K., Listeš, E., & Medić, H. (2018). Differentiation of dry-cured hams from different processing methods by means of volatile compounds, physico-chemical and sensory analysis.  Meat Science, 137, 217–227. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.meatsci.2017.12.001