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Ricciarelli di Siena PGI: history, almonds and sweetness

I Ricciarelli di Siena PGI represent one of the most authoritative symbols of  traditional Italian pastry. Soft inside, slightly crunchy outside, with the typical oval lozenge shape and a wrinkled surface covered with icing sugar, these almond-based cookies testify to a centuries-old artisanal tradition rooted in the Siena area.

The recognition of theProtected Geographical Indication, obtained in 2010, made the Ricciarelli di Siena the first Italian confectionery product to achieve this European certification. The protection, now guaranteed by Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 and the related production specification, protects not only the name but also the processing method and the inseparable link with the province of Siena.

In the panorama of Italian confectionery products with geographical indication, the Ricciarelli di Siena PGI stand out for the high percentage of almonds – from 35% to 50% of the composition – and for a production process that combines artisanal tradition and rigorous quality standards, without the use of flours, starches or preservatives.

From medieval apothecaries to Artusi: a secular heritage

The origins of the Ricciarelli of Siena are intertwined with those of  marzipan of Eastern tradition, introduced to Siena from the 15th century. Numerous documents attest to the presence of ‘marzapanetti alla senese’ or ‘morzelletti’ at important noble banquets, including the weddings of Caterina Sforza and Giordano Riario (1447) and Costanzo Sforza and Camilla d’Aragona (1475).

The first written attestation of the term ‘Ricciarello’ is found in  ‘Ditirambo di S.B. in honor of Coffee and Sugar’, published in Livorno in 1814, with the expression ‘of the she-wolf the Ricciarelli‘, which explicitly recalls the Sienese origin through the city symbol.

The first codified recipe appears in 1891 in the famous manual by  Pellegrino Artusi ‘Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well‘ (recipe no. 629), with the same fundamental ingredients still required:fine white sugar, sweet and bitter almonds, egg whites, orange peel aroma‘.

The European primacy and the guarantees of the disciplinary regulation

TheProtected Geographical Indication ‘Ricciarelli di Siena’ is exclusively reserved for the confectionery product obtained from the processing of a dough based on almonds, sugars, and egg whites, subsequently baked, that meets the conditions and requirements of the disciplinary regulation (Tuscany Region – CO.RI.PANF, 2010).

At the time of release for consumption, the product must present:

  • shape and dimensions: oval lozenge shape; weight between 10 and 30 g per piece; major diagonal between 50 and 105 mm, minor between 30 and 65 mm, thickness between 13 and 20 mm;
  • appearance: white surface due to powdered sugar coating, with possible presence of cracks; slightly golden edge; internal dough is beige with golden hue, soft consistency and not crumbly;
  • taste and smell sweet, typical of  almond paste;
  • the absence of flour guarantees the characteristic softness, as well as suitability for subjects with gluten intolerance (disciplinary regulation, article 2 – Product description).

Production area

The entire processing and packaging process of ‘Ricciarelli di Siena’ must take place in the  administrative territory of the province of Siena, in Tuscany. This territorial constraint guarantees the continuity of artisanal skills and local know-how, preserving the product's fragrance and preventing the risk of alteration and drying out of the dough (disciplinary regulation, article 3 – Production area).

Proof of origin and controls

Every stage of the production process is monitored through the documentation of incoming and outgoing products. Registration in special lists, managed by the control body, of producers and packers – together with the timely declaration of quantities produced – ensures the  traceability of the product (disciplinary regulation, article 4 – Proof of origin).

Production technique: the art of dough and baking

The  mandatory ingredientsrelated to 1 kg of dough, are:

  • granulated sugar (35–47%);
  • hen egg white, also powdered or pasteurized (6–12%);
  • leavening agents (ammonium salts and/or sodium salts), as needed;
  • powdered sugar for coating (5–8%).

No colorants or preservatives are allowed.

Composition of the dough (per 1 kg of product)

Ingredient Mandatory Percentage Technical Note
Sweet almonds 35% – 50% Characterizing base of the product
Granulated sugar 35% – 47% –
Egg white 6% – 12% Also in powder or pasteurized
Leavening agents As needed Ammonium and/or sodium salts
Powdered sugar 5% – 8% Exclusively for the coating

The  optional ingredients allowed in partial substitution or addition include:

  • bitter almonds;
  • glucose syrup or inverted sugar;
  • vanilla beans or vanillin;
  • citrus essential oils;
  • almond flavor;
  • finely chopped candied orange peel;
  • starch wafers (as a base);
  • sorbic acid.

The production process includes:

  • fine grinding of almonds;
  • mixing with sugar and egg white until homogeneous dough;
  • mechanical or manual portioning into the characteristic oval diamond shape;
  • generous dusting with powdered sugar, applied before baking;
  • baking at 150–200 °C for 12–20 minutes;
  • cooling and start of packaging (specification, article 5 – Method of production).

Link with the environment

The product's connection with the territory is demonstrated by historical, economic-productive, and cultural factors. The  specialization of the workforce from Siena in confectionery craftsmanship, inherited from ancient medieval apothecaries, constitutes the product's identity pillar. The strong tourist influx in the area has increased demand, contributing to boosting exports and enhancing the product's international reputation (specification, article 6 – Link with the environment).

Controls and labeling

The control on the product's compliance with the specification is carried out by an accredited control body, The currently designated control body is CSQA Certifications Srl.

On the label must appear:

  • the wording ‘Ricciarelli di Siena’ and ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ (or the acronym PGI);
  • the name and address of the producing and packaging company;
  • The EU PGI logo. The specific logo of the designation depicts the black and white shield of the city of Siena, surrounded by a red drape (specification, article 7 – Controls and labeling).
Gastronomic dialogues: pairing with local wines

The Ricciarelli di Siena IGP lend themselves to numerous gastronomic pairings. The most classic and traditional remains that with  Vin Santo of Chianti DOC or the Vin Santo Toscano DOC, consolidated by the Sienese tradition. The high almond component also pairs well with sweet wines based on aromatic white grapes, such as Moscadello di Montalcino or Malvasia delle Lipari, with fortified wines like Marsala, and with structured black teas or spiced teas. The soft texture and intense almond aroma are best expressed in combination with sweet wines with oxidative and honeyed notes.

Conclusions

In an era of food homogenization, the Ricciarelli di Siena IGP stand as a bulwark of the 'Clean Label' ante literam: an essential ingredients list, gluten-free and without chemical preservatives, where the quality of the raw material is the absolute protagonist. The IGP certification is a fundamental competitive tool to distinguish authentic Made in Italy on global markets, offering consumers and international buyers the certainty of a traceable, historic, and naturally gluten-free product.

Editorial staff of GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade)

Credit cover: Qualigeo

References
  • Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 April 2024 on geographical indications for wine, spirit drinks and agricultural products, as well as traditional specialities guaranteed and optional quality terms for agricultural products.  https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2024/1143/oj
  • Commission Regulation (EU) No 229/2010 of 18 March 2010 entering a name in the register of protected designations of origin and protected geographical indications (Ricciarelli di Siena (PGI)). http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2010/229/oj

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