Carnaroli, the ‘king of rices’ turns 80 years old

The Carnaroli rice turned 80 years old in 2025. An anniversary celebrated by the National Rice Authority with events, land art in the rice fields, and a historic conference held on February 20, 2025, in Paullo, Milan area, where it all began (National Rice Authority, 2025). In the category of superfine long-grain rices A Carnaroli stands out for its extraordinary cooking resistance, the high ability to absorb seasonings and the creaminess that it gives to risottos. These qualities earned it the nickname of ‘king of rices‘, making it one of the most requested varieties in high-end Italian and international cuisine.

History: a hybridization born among the fields of Paullo

The experiments that led to the birth of Carnaroli began around 1939 on the lands of Cascina Casello di Paullo, in the province of Milan, owned by the De Vecchi family. Angelo De Vecchi, owner of the homonymous farmhouse, and his cousin Ettore, agronomist and rice cultivation enthusiast, started a path of varietal selection with an objective unusual for the time: not maximum productivity, but a large, consistent and perfect grain for cooking. The research was based on the hybridization technique, introduced in Italy one hundred years ago by Professor Giovanni Sampietro at the Vercelli Rice Farming Experimental Station.

The crossbreeding aimed to achieve the perfect balance between amylose and amylopectin — the two main components of rice starch — which ensures exceptional cooking resistance and a great ability to absorb flavors. The two parent varieties used were the Vialone Nero — also linked to the history of the De Vecchi family — and the Lencino, a cultivar of northern origin. The result was officially presented in 1945 and registered in the Italian Variety Register in 1974; in 1983 the seed management was definitively passed to the National Rice Authority (De Vecchi, cited in Bosso, 2022).

On the origin of the name there is still some uncertainty. The descendants of the De Vecchi family claim that it is called Carnaroli in honor of the then ‘estate ranger’, responsible for water supply in the rice fields of Paullo; a second school of thought instead believes that the name derives from the then commissioner of the National Rice Authority, Emiliano Carnaroli. Whatever the authentic version, the name is now recognizable in every kitchen in the world.

For about four decades Carnaroli remained a niche variety, penalized by lower yields compared to cultivars selected for mass productivity. It was only from the 1990s that chefs and gastronomes rediscovered its qualities, projecting it to the top of the premium segment (Bosso, 2022).

Production, market and 2025 data

TheItaly is the leading producer of rice in the European Union, with about 50% of community production concentrated in the Po Valley. In 2025 the surface area total planted with rice reached 235,450 hectares, with an increase of about 9,300 hectares compared to 2024, thanks to the growth in sowings in the Long A and Long B groups.

The Carnaroli registered a particularly significant performance: the Carnaroli group saw a further increase in the cultivated area of about 300 hectares compared to forecasts, reaching 24,554 hectares, one of the highest levels ever recorded in the history of this variety (National Rice Authority, 2025). On the domestic demand front, Carnaroli leads the preferences of Italian consumers with 17.1% of volumes purchased, followed by Arborio with 11.6%, confirming its role as the flagship variety of Italian risotto (ISMEA, 2025). In 2024, Italian household expenditure on rice reached 447.6 million euros, corresponding to over 164,000 tons purchased, with an average price of 2.72 euros per kilo (ISMEA, 2025).

The trend is also growing on consumption frequency: in 2025 the consumption frequency records a +6,9% compared to 2024, with a positive trend concerning both home cooking and meals outside the home (+2.5%). More than half of Italian consumers (51.8%) bring rice to the table at least once a week (National Observatory on Rice Consumption/AstraRicerche, 2025).

On the front export, Italy exported rice worth 926.8 million dollars in 2025, confirming its position as the main European exporter. The Carnaroli and Arborio, strong due to the gastronomic reputation of the Made in Italy, significant price premiums continue to emerge on international markets, particularly in Europe, North America and East Asia (Mordor Intelligence, 2026).

Botanical characteristics

Carnaroli belongs to the species Oryza sativa L. and to the commercial group of superfine long-grain rices A. Its main characteristics are:

• grain about 7.25 mm long, 3.37 mm wide, with a reduced central pearl;
• high content of amylose (higher than the average of superfine varieties), which guarantees cooking resistance and grain separation;
• low content of amylopectin, which limits excessive sticking of the grains;
• high ability to absorb liquids, aromas and fats during creaming;
• vegetative cycle of about 165 days, among the longest of Italian varieties.

Territory, cultivation and sustainability

Carnaroli finds its ideal habitat in the large rice-growing areas of the Po Valley, particularly in the provinces of Vercelli, Novara and Pavia, where soil and hydrological characteristics — alluvial soils, abundant availability of irrigation water from the Canale Cavour and Po system, continental climate with marked temperature excursions — offer the optimal conditions for this demanding cultivar.

Cultivation traditionally takes place in flooded rice fields (a system that helps control weeds and manage the microclimate), with sowing between April and May and harvesting between September and October. Productivity per hectare is lower compared to the most widespread modern cultivars, a factor that contributes to the higher commercial value of the final product and its relative rarity.

In recent years many companies have adopted practices of sustainable agriculture: reduction of chemical inputs, precision farming, precise monitoring of water use and enhancement of biodiversity in wetlands. At the same time, the area dedicated to certified organic rice, a segment of particular appeal for premium international markets.

The production process: from the rice field to packaging

Carnaroli rice follows a production process that preserves its intrinsic qualities at every stage:

1. cultivation and harvesting of raw paddy rice (paddy);
2. drying controlled to reduce moisture to levels suitable for preservation;
3. cleaning from plant residues and impurities;
4. hulling (removal of glumes, resulting in brown rice);
5. whitening and polishing progressive for the polished white version;
6. optical selection and grading to remove defective grains;
7. packaging with varietal identification and, where required, indication of origin.

The Carnaroli version whole grain, obtained by stopping the process after hulling, preserves the pericarp and rice germ, a treasure trove of antioxidants and vitamin E. The version semi-milled in turn preserves part of the pericarp and micronutrients of the grain. The presence of structural fibers in the less refined versions, combined with the natural richness of amylose in this cultivar, also contributes to a lower impact on theglycemic index.

The treatment parboiled, although widespread for other varieties, is instead poorly compatible with the risotto vocation of Carnaroli, as it inhibits the release of starch necessary for creaming.

In the kitchen: from risotto alla Milanese to gourmet creations

Carnaroli is the reference variety for risotto preparation. The combination of high amylose content and progressive starch release during cooking — activated by toasting and sustained by gradual broth addition — allows for that creamy and velvety consistency characteristic of great Italian risotto, while keeping the grain perfectly al dente.

Among the most representative dishes are risotto alla Milanese (with saffron), porcini mushroom risotto, seafood risotto, asparagus risotto, and contemporary haute cuisine interpretations. Beyond risottos, Carnaroli is used in premium rice salads, casseroles, supplì, and innovative preparations that enhance the grain's structure.

Guide for buyers and importers

For international buyers and importers, it is essential to prioritize products that guarantee:

• clear varietal identification on the label (the wording ‘Carnaroli’ or ‘Carnaroli classico’ in purity, pursuant to Legislative Decree 131/2017);
• complete traceability of the supply chain, with indication of the country of origin of the raw material;
• certified Italian provenance, with reference to the areas of the Po Valley;
• low-impact processing that preserves the integrity of the grain;
• organic certification, where available, for the best guarantee of environmental and biodiversity protection.

The team of GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) provides specialized expertise to support international buyers in identifying reliable producers, evaluating certifications, and developing commercial partnerships along the entire Italian agri-food supply chain.

Conclusions

Eighty years after its birth among the fields of Paullo, the Carnaroli rice remains the absolute point of reference for the preparation of great Italian risottos. The 2025 data — cultivated area at historic highs, domestic consumption growing by +6.9%, Italian exports at almost one billion dollars — confirm the vitality of a variety that has been able to transform its productive ‘weakness’ into an added value recognized worldwide. The growing focus on sustainability, organic farming, and supply chain transparency offers new opportunities for enhancing this iconic cereal, increasingly at thecenter of interest for consumers, chefs, and international buyers.

Dario Dongo

Credit cover Consortium for the Protection of the DOP Rice of Baraggia Biellese and Vercellese

References

AstraRicerche / National Observatory on Rice Consumption in Italy. (2025, September). Rice consumption in Italy 2025. Presented at Risò – International Rice Festival, Vercelli. https://enterisi.it/servizi/notizie/ricerca_notizie_fase02.aspx?ID=40340

Bosso, E. (2022, 27 June). Carnaroli: the varietal sheet. Italian rice. https://www.risoitaliano.eu/carnaroli/

Bosso, E. (2020). The importance of being called Carnaroli. Italian rice. https://www.risoitaliano.eu/limportanza-di-chiamarsi-carnaroli/

European Commission. (2024, December). EU agricultural outlook 2024–2035: a resilient sector adapts to climate change, sustainability concerns, and shifting consumer demand. Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development & Joint Research Centre. https://agriculture.ec.europa.eu/media/news/eu-agricultural-outlook-2024-35-resilient-sector-adapts-climate-change-sustainability-concerns-and-2024-12-11_en

Legislative Decree 4 August 2017, No. 131. Provisions concerning the internal rice market. Normattiva (last update to the act published on 03/28/2018). https://www.normattiva.it/uri-res/N2Ls?urn:nir:stato:decreto.legislativo:2017-08-04;131

National Rice Authority. (2025). Carnaroli record, less round: definitive areas 2025. Italian rice. https://www.risoitaliano.eu/meno-tondo-carnaroli-record/

ISMEA. (2025, 11 September). Rice consumption: ISMEA presentation at Risò 2025. Institute of Services for the Agricultural Food Market. https://www.ismeamercati.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/13595

Mordor Intelligence. (2026). Italy rice market – size, share & growth analysis. https://www.mordorintelligence.com/industry-reports/italy-rice-market