Oval and elongated shape, rustic appearance and a balanced texture between crunchiness and softness. This is the profile of pinsa, a baked product that has established itself as a gastronomic entity distinct from pizzas and focaccias, characterized by a particular attention to nutritional profile and digestibility.
The pinsa in Italian food tradition
The origins
The term ‘pinsa’ derives from the Latin ‘pinsĕre’, which means ‘to pound’, ‘to crush’, ‘to push’. This verb, in its culinary sense, describes the action of stretching and flattening a dough with the fingers and palms, an ancient and instinctive technique, profoundly different from using a rolling pin.
The earliest forms of ‘pinsa’ were the food of peasants, shepherds, humble people. They were poor doughs, often made with water, salt and a mix of wheat, barley and spelt flours, cereals then more common and rustic compared to modern soft wheat.
Their shape oval and elongated was not only an aesthetic matter, but met practical needs: it was easy to transport, to season with simple ingredients like olive oil, aromatic herbs and, when available, a bit of cheese or bacon.
The revival
The revival of pinsa, as we understand it today, is a relatively recent phenomenon, dating back to the early twenty-first century. It is due to the intuition and perseverance of a group of Roman bakers and pizzaioli, among whom stands out the figure of Corrado Di Marco, who wanted to recover this ancient tradition, elevating it to a high gastronomy product.
Their work was not a simple archaeological revival, but a careful scientific re-elaboration. They studied the flours, times, temperatures and microorganisms, giving life to a disciplinary guideline of production – then culminating in the registered trademark ‘Pinsa Romana’ – which defines every phase of the process.
The recovery of an ancient and widespread rural custom has transformed into a gastronomic trend, which, after conquering the tables of the Capital, has then expanded throughout Italy and the world. Alongside the pioneers' Roman pinsa, a production of ‘non-certified’ pinsas has taken off. All united by the typical oval and flattened shape, with characteristic irregular ‘cornicioni’ (raised edges) and appreciated by consumers for the narrative that emphasizes the genuine, artisanal and beneficial character of the pinsa.
The preparation method
The preparation of the ‘true’ Roman pinsa is a slow and precise ritual which begins long before the cooking phase. The most evident and substantial difference compared to pizza lies in the composition of thedough.
The dough
The pinsa dough is characterized by the use of a flour mix. Typically, this mix includes soft wheat flour, soy flour and rice flour, in varying proportions but usually with a predominance of the first (Amoriello et al., 2021).
The addition of soy flour provides proteins, which contribute to the strength of the dough and its nutritional value, and lipids, which positively influence the softness of the crumb. The rice flour, rich in starch, absorbs a large amount of water and, during cooking, gelatinizes contributing to form a particularly crispy and thin crust.
This multi-cereal combination is one of the cornerstones of the pinsa philosophy, aimed at reducing the glycemic index and improving the amino acid profile compared to a soft wheat-only dough (Costantini et al., 2023).
The hydration factor
The degree of hydration is another crucial parameter. While a Neapolitan pizza dough has hydration around 55-60%, that for pinsa can easily exceed 70-80%.
Such a highly hydrated dough is initially very sticky and difficult to work with, but it is precisely this abundant presence of water that triggers a series of advantages.
During fermentation and maturation, water acts as a plasticizer, allowing a more extensive formation of the gluten network without making it excessively tough. During baking, water evaporates violently, creating the characteristic large and irregular alveoli of the crumb and contributing to a appreciable crispness of the crust, which remains thin. High hydration is also one of the key factors for lightness and the perceived digestibility, as it dilutes the solid components of the dough.
The shape and spreading technique
The shaping is equally peculiar. As mentioned, pinsa is not rolled out with a rolling pin (explicitly prohibited in the Pinsa Romana regulations), but rather ‘pinsata’, meaning it is gently pressed and stretched with the fingers, starting from the center outwards, to form the characteristic elongated oval.
This technique preserves the gaseous structure of the dough creating those characteristic craters and air bubbles that result in an irregular and very pleasant texture on the palate.
the edge, or crust, is present but generally less pronounced and crunchier than that of a Neapolitan pizza.
Slow cooking
Finally, the cooking. The Roman pinsa is baked in ventilated electric ovens at a slightly lower temperature (about 270-290 °C) compared to the wood-fired oven of Neapolitan pizza (which exceeds 450 °C).
The cooking time is longer, generally between three and five minutes. This more delicate and prolonged thermal treatment allows a more homogeneous dehydration and the formation of a crunchy crust on the entire surface, including the bottom, without the internal crumb losing its softness.
The result is a product that is more dry and crunchy on the outside, but incredibly soft and airy on the inside, with a crust-to-crumb ratio profoundly different from that of pizza.
The leavening process
The heart of the pinsa, what determines its structure, flavor, and digestibility, lies in its leavening process. It is at this stage that the game is played regarding digestibility, flavor, and the final structure of the product.
Sourdough or brewer's yeast
The sourdough, also known as sourdough starter or natural yeast, is considered the gold standard for the preparation of high-quality artisanal pinsa.
Sourdough is a dough of flour and water acidified by a symbiotic culture of wild yeasts, mainly of the genus Saccharomyces, and lactic acid bacteria, such as Lactobacillus e Pediococcus. Unlike the brewer's yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae), which is a pure culture selected for its rapid fermentation, sourdough is a complex and living ecosystem. Lactic acid bacteria, fermenting sugars, produce lactic acid and acetic acid. These organic acids are responsible for the characteristic slightly sour flavor of naturally leavened bread, but they also perform crucial functions.
The beneficial functions of sourdough
The acidity of the dough inhibits the development of pathogenic bacteria and molds, acting as a natural preservative.
Furthermore, the acids act on gluten proteins, partially 'predigesting' them. This proteolysis process, combined with long fermentation, breaks down long gluten protein chains into simpler peptides and amino acids, making the final product significantly more digestible for many people who show gluten sensitivity, although not celiac, and suitable to promote the healthy metabolism of intestinal microbiota at the colon level (Costantini et al., 2022; De Ros et al., 2021).
A pinsa made with sourdough typically requires a maturation (the period between mixing and baking) which ranges from 48 to 72 hours, at controlled temperatures. This long time is essential to allow all these biochemical processes to take place fully. But it is inconvenient in semi-artisanal contexts, where brewer's yeast is used due to shorter maturation times (12-24 hours), ease of management, and the guarantee of standardized results. At the expense of the aromatic depth and digestibility of the final product.
Starters and improvers
Within the industrial production or semi-industrial, for large-scale pinsa production or pre-cooked or frozen bases, the use of specific ‘starters’ or ‘improvers’ is more frequent.
These are not simply yeasts, but complex mixes that may include brewer's yeast, selected freeze-dried lactic bacteria (to simulate the acidity of sourdough), enzymes (amylase and protease) to accelerate maturation processes, emulsifiers to stabilize the highly hydrated dough, and preservatives.
The goal of these industrial starters is to standardize the product, reduce fermentation times (even to just a few hours) and ensure a long shelf life, sacrificing much of the complexity and uniqueness of the artisanal process. The industrial product is often more uniform, with less irregular alveolation and a simpler aromatic profile.
Organoleptic characteristics
From the point of view organoleptic, the ‘true’ pinsa offers a well-defined multisensory experience. In theappearance it presents with an irregular oval shape, with a surface dotted with air bubbles of various sizes, some of which may be slightly burnt at the tips, a sign of baking in a ventilated oven. The crust color is golden-amber, uneven, with darker spots due to the Maillard reaction. The crust is very thin and appears crumbly.
All’olfaction, the pinsa exudes a complex and inviting scent. If made with sourdough, you can perceive acidic notes, slight hints of yogurt or ripe fruit, accompanied by the toasted aromas of the crust and, in some cases, by a light hint of hazelnut given by the toasted soy flour.
At the touch, the first impression is of surprising lightness despite its size. When touched, the crust breaks with a friability characteristic of this type of dough.
At the taste, the experience is dominated by textural contrast: the very crunchy crust gives way to make room for a soft, moist and honeycombed crumb.
The flavor is balanced: it is not simply ‘bread’ or ‘pizza’. The base has a complex, slightly acidic flavor that does not overpower the seasoning ingredients but enhances their freshness. The low caloric density by volume (it is mostly air and water) contributes to the sensation of lightness during and after the meal.
The nutritional profile
From the point of view nutritional, the pinsa presents some interesting peculiarities, although it is always necessary to consider that it is a baked product which, in its basic form, is mainly composed of carbohydratesHowever, its intrinsic characteristics make it potentially more interesting than other similar products.
Theuse of a mix of flours affects the nutritional profile. The addition of soy flour provides proteins of better biological quality, with a amino acid profile more complete compared to that of wheat alone, and unsaturated fats. Rice flour, being gluten-free, does not significantly change the total protein content but contributes to the texture.
This mix, combined with the long maturation, can have a positive influence on digestibility. The partial enzymatic degradation of gluten and starch, carried out by flour enzymes and lactic bacteria, makes these macronutrients more easily attacked by human digestive enzymes, reducing the workload of the stomach and intestines. In addition, long fermentation can reduce the FODMAP content (Fermentable Oligo-, Di-, Mono-saccharides And Polyols), short-chain sugars that in sensitive individuals can cause bloating and abdominal discomfort.
Another crucial aspect is theglycemic index. A long-fermentation dough, with a mix of flours and a high water content, can have a lower glycemic index compared to white bread or a quickly leavened pizza (Costantini et al., 2023). The acidity of the dough is known to slow gastric emptying and the rate of sugar absorption. Finally, the pinsa tends to absorb less fat from the topping compared to a traditional pizza, thanks to its denser and less porous crust.
It is obvious that the final nutritional profile greatly depends on the topping chosen. A pinsa loaded with fatty cheeses, cured meats and oil will never be a 'diet' food, but its base offers a more favorable starting point for a balanced meal.
The three basic principles of tasting pinsa
Unlike some 'gourmet' pizzas that can handle very rich and elaborate toppings, the philosophy of pinsa revolves around concept of lightness and of enhancing the raw material. The seasoning should therefore be a complement, not an absolute protagonist. The ideal tasting follows three principles.
The first principle is quantitative and qualitative moderation. The base of the pinsa, already flavorful in itself, does not need to be covered with large amounts of ingredients. An excess of mozzarella, for example, would risk releasing too much water during cooking, making the base soggy and nullifying its crispiness. Flavors that are too strong could cancel out the unique taste of the dough.
The second principle is freshness and seasonality. The pinsa lends itself wonderfully to the use of raw or only lightly cooked ingredients, added after baking or in the last moments. Salads, grilled vegetables, high-quality cured hams, fresh or aged cheeses but not excessively fatty, are ideal pairings.
The classic ‘Pinsa Romana’ with tomato, mozzarella, basil, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil is a perfect example of how a few quality ingredients can create perfect harmony.
The third principle concerns serving temperature. The pinsa should be eaten hot, just out of the oven, to fully appreciate the contrast between the hot, crispy crust and the soft crumb. Simple, without any seasoning, it can also be a great alternative to bread.
International buyers interested in this extraordinary Italian baked product can rely on GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) in the search for the best authentic Made in Italy pinsa productions.
Marta Strinati
References
– Amoriello, T., Mellara, F., Bartoli, L., Galli, V., & Amoriello, M. (2021). Innovation in Pinsa Romana production: A response surface methodology approach. Chemical Engineering Transactions, 87, 619–624. https://doi.org/10.3303/CET2187104
– Costantini, A., Da Ros, A., Nikoloudaki, O., Montemurro, M., Di Cagno, R., Genot, B., Gobbetti, M., & Rizzello, C. G. (2022). How cereal flours, starters, enzymes, and process parameters affect the in vitro digestibility of sourdough bread. Food Research International, 159, 111614. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodres.2022.111614
– CREA – Council for agricultural research and analysis of the agricultural economy. (n.d.). Food composition tables. https://www.alimentinutrizione.it/tabelle-nutrizionali/ricerca-per-alimento
– Da Ros, A., Polo, A., Rizzello, C. G., Acin-Albiac, M., Montemurro, M., Di Cagno, R., & Gobbetti, M. (2021). Feeding with sustainably sourdough bread has the potential to promote the healthy microbiota metabolism at the colon level. Microbiology Spectrum, 9(3), e0049421. https://doi.org/10.1128/Spectrum.00494-21
– Regulation and Protocol Original Pinsa Romana Association. (2022). Regulation and protocol Original Pinsa Romana Association. https://www.pinsaromana.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Regolamento-e-Protocollo.pdf
Professional journalist since January 1995, she has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and magazines (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). Author of journalistic investigations on food, she published the book 'Reading labels to know what we eat'.
