The Senatore Cappelli durum wheat today stands among the main drivers for the enhancement of agricultural biodiversity and quality cereal supply chains. Selected in the early twentieth century, this Italian wheat has returned to the focus of operators, processors, and international buyers thanks to the combination of territorial identity, nutraceutical value, and agronomic resilience.
Senatore Cappelli was obtained in 1915 by the geneticist Nazareno Strampelli at the Foggia Cereal Research Center, through genealogical intrapopulation selection from the North African landrace ‘Jenah Rhetifah’ – a Tunisian population of durum wheat already widespread in the Mediterranean basin. The variety was dedicated by Strampelli to the Abruzzo marquis Raffaele Cappelli, senator of the Kingdom of Italy, who had made available to the researcher experimental fields, laboratories, and resources to support his activity.
The selection process did not happen instantly: the chosen plants were multiplied and further selected until 1923, before the variety reached sufficient varietal stability for commercial distribution. In the 1940s, Cappelli covered over half of the cultivated surfaces of durum wheat in Italy, representing for decades the dominant cereal crop dominant in the South of the peninsula. Its DNA is present in 80% of the durum wheat cultivated worldwide: a direct legacy of a breeding program that transformed Italian and Mediterranean cereal farming.
With the introduction of modern short-stature cultivars — the result of the so-called ‘green revolution’ of the ‘50s and ‘60s — Cappelli was progressively abandoned. Its rediscovery, starting from the ’90s, has been driven by the growth oforganic farming, by the demand for high nutritional quality products and the development of traceable short supply chains.
Morphology and crop cycle: rusticity as a resource
The Triticum durum var. Senatore Cappelli presents morphological and physiological characteristics that define its agronomic identity:
- tall stature — up to 180 cm — which guarantees greater competition with weeds and reduces the need for chemical weed control;
- awned spike and vitreous grain of high technological quality, with a protein content of 14–15% on dry matter (Giacosa et al., 2022);
- late cultivation cycle and autumnal, with harvest between late June and early July in southern Italy areas;
- high rusticity, which allows cultivation in marginal pedoclimatic conditions, with reduced use of fertilizers and pesticides (De Vita et al., 2025; Armeli et al., 2025).
These traits, although causing lower yields compared to modern varieties, contribute to the qualitative stability of the product and to the structural reduction of inputs agronomic.
The link between territory and protein stability in Southern Italy
The cultivation of Senatore Cappelli is concentrated in Southern Italy — Apulia, Basilicata, Sicily and Sardinia — where the hot-arid climate and predominantly poor and clay soils favor the expression of its qualitative characteristics. In Apulia, the high protein content has historically earned it the nickname ‘meat of the poor,’ a popular recognition of nutritional value perceived centuries before being confirmed by science.
From an environmental point of view, Cappelli stands out for:
- adaptability to extensive and organic systems, with less pressure on natural resources;
- composition of gluten proteins (gliadins) more stable with changing cultivation conditions compared to modern varieties, with a gliadin profile that — regardless of the amount of gluten present — appears associated with lower reactivity in subjects with non-celiac wheat sensitivity (Ianiro et al., 2019);
- contribution to the conservation of biodiversity cultivated, in line with EU strategies.
Nutritional and nutraceutical profile: scientific studies
Scientific literature from the last ten years has systematically explored the phytochemical profile of Senatore Cappelli, confirming its distinctive nutraceutical value compared to modern varieties. EFSA (European Food Safety Authority) has not yet evaluated the scientific validity and relevance of the studies for the authorization of specific 'health claims' pursuant to Regulation (EC) No. 1924/06, due to the absence of authorization requests from interested operators.
Polyphenols and bioactive compounds. Ancient Italian wheat varieties, and in particular Senatore Cappelli, show a significantly higher number of polyphenolic compounds and isomers compared to modern varieties, both in free and bound fractions. Cappelli holds the absolute record for polyphenolic isomers among the studied Italian varieties — thirteen identified isomers — and it is the only variety in which the presence of hinokinin, a lignan with potential anti-inflammatory activity (Giacosa et al., 2022), has been detected. The biochemical profileincludes phenolic acids, carotenoids, B-group vitamins, omega-3 fatty acids, prebiotic oligosaccharides, and phytosterols.
Glycemic index. A study published in International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition measured for Senatore Cappelli pasta a Glycemic index of 47.9 for long formats (spaghetti) and 68.5 for short formats, with a total polyphenol content of 113.5 mg/100 g and flavonoids of 52.96 mg/100 g. The long format is therefore classifiable as a low glycemic index food, according to FAO/WHO parameters (Pugnaloni et al., 2022).
Serotonin. A multistage study on the Senatore Cappelli supply chain detected the presence of serotonin in concentrations ranging from 21.71 to 42.66 mg/kg in seeds, flour, bran, and pasta (Armeli et al., 2025). Dietary serotonin does not act directly as a neurotransmitter in the human body, as about 90% of bodily serotonin is produced in the intestine, where it regulates gastrointestinal motility and interacts with the microbiota through thegut-brain axis (Akram et al., 2024). The role of its dietary intake remains under investigation and does not yet allow definitive conclusions.
Benefits and tolerability in gluten sensitivity
The health properties of Senatore Cappelli have been validated by randomized clinical studies conducted on human populations and animal models.
Non-celiac wheat sensitivity (NCWS)A randomized double-blind crossover clinical trial conducted on 42 patients with non-celiac gluten sensitivity demonstrated that the consumption of Senatore Cappelli pasta results in significantly lower scores for gastrointestinal and extra-intestinal symptoms compared to standard commercial pasta (p = 0.03 for overall symptoms), with statistically significant reductions in bloating, abdominal distension, belching, flatulence, dermatitis, and paresthesia of the limbs. The result is all the more relevant asil Cappelli contains an amount of gluten proteins equal to or higher than modern varieties, suggesting that tolerability depends on factors other than the absolute gluten content — probably on gliadin composition and from lower pesticide contamination (Ianiro et al., 2019).
Cardiovascular parameters. Recent studies have documented favorable cardiovascular effects from consuming Cappelli pasta, with positive changes in markers of atherosclerosis — lipid parameters and hemorheological variables — compared to modern grains. In a cross-over trial, twenty healthy adult subjects consumed 70 g/day of Cappelli pasta for 10 weeks, with significant improvements in biomarkers of the atherogenic process (Ghiselli et al., cited in Giacosa et al., 2022).
Anti-aging potential. A 2025 study conducted by Sapienza University of Rome on cellular models and the organism Caenorhabditis elegans identified in the biochemical constituents of Cappelli — phenolic acids, tryptophan and other phytocompounds — properties of lifespan extension and resistance to oxidative stress, opening new scenarios in functional food research.
Note. Senatore Cappelli contains a significant amount of gluten. It is therefore not suitable for individuals with celiac disease nor for those with diagnosed wheat allergy.
Technological excellence: stone milling and slow drying
The semolina of Senatore Cappelli expresses its best potential through processing methods consistent with the characteristics of the raw material:
- stone milling: preserves the germ and pericarp, maintaining the supply of fiber, minerals, and phenolic compounds that industrial roller milling can sometimes deplete;
- slow drying at low temperatures (typically
The main applications of Cappelli semolina include premium pasta made from whole or semi-whole semolina, naturally leavened bread with intense and persistent organoleptic notes, short supply chain bakery products.
Organic farming and competitiveness in international markets
The Organic Senatore Cappelli represents the highest added value segment among Italian ancient grains, growing both in the domestic market and in exports to North America, Germany, Japan, and premium markets in the Middle East.
The main competitive drivers include:
- natural coherence between variety and organic production method, which structurally reduces chemical inputs;
- greater transparency and supply chain traceability, appreciated by international buyers and B2B certification systems;
- premium positioning supported by a growing demand for foods based on ancient grains, authentic and scientifically verified;
- alignment with EU policies on organic farming, pesticide reduction (goal -50% by 2030), and biodiversity conservation.
Conclusions
The enhancement of Senatore Cappelli represents a virtuous model where biodiversity protection meets scientific innovation. The consolidation of traceable and certified supply chains, often organic, together with the confirmation of the grain's functional properties, positions this variety as an essential reference for the premium products market. An Italian heritage that responds with research data to modern health and global sustainability needs.
Dario Dongo
References
- Akram, M., et al. (2024). Exploring the serotonin–probiotics–gut health axis: A review of current evidence and potential mechanisms. Food Science & Nutrition, 12(2), 834–851. https://doi.org/10.1002/fsn3.3826
- Armeli, F., Beccaccioli, M., Prencipe, S. A., Schifano, E., Tufi, D., Brasili, E., … De Giusti, M. (2025). Bioactive molecules in wheat ‘Senatore Cappelli’ food chain: Extraction, analysis, processing, and beneficial properties. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 201, 115475. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fct.2025.115475
- De Vita, P., Pecchioni, N., & Vaccino, P. (2025). At the roots of Italy's wheat: the Senatore Cappelli. CREA. https://creafuturo.crea.gov.it/15323/
- Giacosa, A., Peroni, G., & Rondanelli, M. (2022). Phytochemical components and human health effects of old versus modern Italian wheat varieties: The case of durum wheat Senatore Cappelli. Nutrients, 14(13), 2779. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu14132779
- Ianiro, G., Rizzatti, G., Napoli, M., Matteo, M. V., Rinninella, E., Mora, V., … Gasbarrini, A. (2019). A durum wheat variety-based product is effective in reducing symptoms in patients with non-celiac gluten sensitivity: A double-blind randomized cross-over trial. Nutrients, 11(4), 712. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu11040712
- Pugnaloni, S., Alia, S., Gabrielli, M., Di Paolo, A., Turco, I., Mazzanti, L., … Ferretti, G. (2022). Senatore Cappelli (Triticum turgidum ssp. durum) pasta: A study on the nutritional quality of whole grains and its physical form. International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition, 73(4), 451–459. https://doi.org/10.1080/09637486.2021.2025212
- Sofi, F., Whittaker, A., Gori, A. M., Cesari, F., Surrenti, E., Abbate, R., Gensini, G. F., Benedettelli, S., & Casini, A. (2014). Effect of Triticum turgidum subsp. turanicum wheat on irritable bowel syndrome: a double-blinded randomised dietary intervention trial. The British journal of nutrition, 111(11), 1992–1999. https://doi.org/10.1017/S000711451400018X

Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.



