Ancient grains vs modern grains and health, scientific review

Ancient grains and modern grains, interactions with the human body and health. A scientific review of rare breadth has been published by a group of Italian researchers in the journal  Nutrients. (1)

Genetic aspects

About 10,000 years ago man began the process of domesticating some wheats:

– diploids, like einkorn wheat (Triticum monococcum), and

– tetraploids. Like  Triticum turgidum which has two domesticated varieties, emmer wheat and durum wheat (Triticum durum). Emmer wheat – from which modern varieties descend, although cultivated in limited amounts compared to other wheats – was among the staples of the ancient Roman diet.

Common wheat (Triticum aestivum, hexaploid wheat) has no wild equivalent, as it derives from the hybridization of a domesticated emmer wheat with a known wild plant (Triticum tauschii).

Genetic improvement, carried out through crossing and selection, has made it possible to introduce and stabilize some new genes and/or control sequences of the respective genomes. From a nutritional point of view, the selection process has contributed, over a long period of time, to increasing starch content at the expense of proteins.

The selection criteria  of  cultivars moderne, nel XX secolo, sono stati improntati all’incremento delle rese e l’aumento della forza del glutine (da <100W a >300W, per abbreviare i tempi e ottimizzare la trasformazione industriale). Si è così ridotta drasticamente l’altezza della pianta (da 150-180 cm a meno di 50 cm), per concentrare nella spiga la sua potenzialità produttiva della pianta ed evitare l’allettamento.

Sensitivity to gluten, wheat and glyphosate

Wheat  is still the basis of nutrition in many countries. In recent years, the  cultivars of ancient wheat have been brought to general attention because some clinical studies have highlighted their nutritional and health qualities.

The spread of celiac disease, in the last 70 years, has been statistically associated—based on studies at blood banks, regardless of the increasing attention to diagnosis and theevolution of its methods – with the different quality of gluten contained in modern grains. (2)

Exposure to pollutants  environmental and dietary, it is worth adding, has a definite impact on the microbiome. As has been already reported in relation to pesticides and herbicides, among which glyphosate for example.

The causal relationship between glyphosate exposure and the occurrence of celiac disease has among others been demonstrated in two MIT studies (Massachusetts Institute of Technology) cited in our free ebook ‘GMOs, the Great Fraud’.

Blood sugar and insulin

The glycemic response to the consumption of ancient whole grains such as spelt and rye is actually lower than that of others  cultivars. Thanks to a  down-regulation of the main genes involved in glucose metabolic processes. (3) Other studies have shown that the complete replacement of modern wheat with  khorasan (also known in the Italian Perciasacchi variety) has produced a reduction in glucose and insulin levels in both healthy individuals and those at high cardiovascular risk. (4)

Traditional varieties of soft hexaploid wheats – such as ‘Verna’, ‘Gentil Rosso’ and ‘Autonomia B’ – in turn produced a significant reduction in blood sugar after eight weeks of testing, as part of a randomized double-blind clinical study conducted on 45 healthy individuals. (5)

Clinical studies  and preclinical studies therefore converge in clearly showing the ability of ancient grains to improve glycemic responses, although an exact explanation of this phenomenon is still lacking. It has meanwhile been verified how – in addition to qualitative characteristics – even the industrial processing methods applied to cereals can affect the postprandial glucose response. (6)

Nutrition, health and trace elements

Some ancient grains (e.g. einkorn spelt, emmer spelt and  khorasanAccording to concordant data in the literature, they have a higher content of carotenoids, lutein in particular, compared to modern varieties. Some types of einkorn wheat have shown a lutein content 3-8 times higher than modern soft wheat varieties, 2 times higher than modern durum wheat varieties. (7)

I polyphenols – which have a demonstrated role in the prevention of cardiovascular diseases, diabetes and metabolic syndrome in particular (8) – were measured in 16 ancient wheats and 6 modern ones, grown in the same location. The highest content of free flavonoids was found in five historic varieties (Andriolo, Gentil Rosso Mutico, Marzuolo D’Aqui, Sieve, and Verna), the highest values of bound flavonoids were found in 5 vintage grains (Gentil Rosso, Gentil Rosso Mutico, Marzuolo D’Aqui, Marzuolo Val Pusteria and Inallettabile) and intwo modern (Eureka and Nobel). (9)

cultivars of wheat and microbiome

The human microbiome is involved in various metabolic processes, in addition to the well-known role in the homeostasis of the gut-associated immune system. One study, among many cited, showed an overall positive effect of whole grain  khorasan on the microbiota compared to modern whole grains. (10)

The microbiota of pigs fed for 30 days with a diet based on einkorn wheat (T.  monococcum) – compared to standard modern wheat – has, on the other hand, been enriched with bacteria (genera  Blautia, Faecalibacterium  e Oscillospira) that produce short-chain fatty acids, associated with an increase in metabolic and microbial diversity. This suggests a strong beneficial prebiotic effect for the health of the intestinal ecosystem. (11)

Ancient grains, fatty liver syndrome and anti-inflammatory effects

Particular attention deserves a clinical study involving 40 patients diagnosed with fatty liver syndrome (Non-Alcoholic Fatty Liver Disease, NAFLD). (12) Patients in this double-blind randomized study followed a wheat-based diet  khorasan as the sole wheat source (pasta, bread, crackers, biscuits) – that is, a diet based on modern cereals (pasta, bread,  crackers, biscuits), in the control group – for a period of three months.

The group fed exclusively with products based on  khorasan recorded a significant reduction in blood levels of alanine aminotransferase (ALT), aspartate aminotransferase (AST) and alkaline phosphatase (three significant markers of liver function). In addition to the decrease in blood cholesterol level, as well as significant reductions in the level of some circulating pro-inflammatory cytokines (such as IL-1ra, IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-).

A systemic anti-inflammatory effect was then associated with wheat consumption  khorasan in a recent pilot study of  crossover randomized, which involved 20 professional or semi-professional athletes. (13) In this study, after four weeks of a khorasan wheat-based diet, a significant reduction in blood levels of the MCP-1 protein, a pro-inflammatory chemokine produced by muscles under stress, was recorded.

Blood cholesterol, irritable bowel syndrome

One of the studies most interesting compared the effects of a diet based on the use of three  cultivars of ancient soft wheat (Verna, Gentil Rosso and Autonomia B), compared to a dietary regime based on a modern soft wheat (Blasco). (14) 45 healthy subjects were divided into groups fed with wheat of each single  cultivars. And the consumption of ancient varieties significantly reduced total cholesterol, LDL cholesterol and blood glucose levels.

No differences – in the aforementioned study, with respect to the considered parameters – between wheat grown under organic farming and those obtained from conventional agriculture. It would therefore be interesting to consider, in further research, the identity of the microbiota and the presence of antioxidants in organic cereals compared to conventional ones.

The irritable bowel syndrome (Irritable Bowel Syndrome, IBS) was also the subject of a clinical trial on 20 subjects divided into two groups who alternatively followed a diet based on  khorasan and a diet based on modern grains. During the feeding period with products based on  khorasan, IBS patients showed a significant reduction in symptoms associated with a reduction in pro-inflammatory cytokine levels. (15)

Conclusions and perspectives

Numerous studies converge on a better supply of proteins and micronutrients – as well as secondary metabolites and polyphenols – in ancient wheats. Clinical studies, carried out on both healthy subjects and patients affected by diseases, also highlight their significant advantages in terms of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities.

The only limitation of these studies – whose merit is largely due to Italian researchers, with predictably limited resources – is represented by the small number of  cultivars and sometimes even of subjects analyzed. 'Nevertheless, considering the results of all available studies, it is possible to state that modern grains, when subjected to clinical tests, clearly show pro-inflammatory and pro-oxidant activity.’ (1)

‘To affirm that ancient and modern grains are all the same means deliberately ignoring all the clinical studies conducted so far.

The best nutritional qualities of ancient grains should be encouraged by more effective control systems cthat discourage fraud and speculation for the benefit of consumers who are increasingly willing and interested in buying foods beneficial for health.’ (1)

Dario Dongo and Paolo Caruso

Note

(1) Enzo Spisni, Veronica Imbesi, Elisabetta Giovanardi, Giovannamaria Petrocelli, Patrizia Alvisi and Maria Chiara Valeri. (2019).  Differential Physiological Responses Elicited by Ancient and Heritage Wheat Cultivars Compared to Modern Ones. Nutrients 2019, 11, 2879; doi:10.3390/nu11122879

(2) Kasarda, D.D. (2013).  Can an increase in celiac disease be attributed to an increase in the gluten content of wheat as a consequence of wheat breeding? J. Agric. Food Chem. 2013, 61, 1155–1159.

Rubio-Tapia, A.; Kyle, R.A.; Kaplan, E.L.; Johnson, D.R.; Page,W.; Erdtmann, F.; Brantner, T.L.; Kim,W.R.; Phelps, T.K.; Lahr, B.D.; et al. (2009).  Increased prevalence and mortality in undiagnosed celiac disease. Gastroenterology 2009, 137, 88-93

Lohi, S.; Mustalahti, K.; Kaukinen, K.; Laurila, K.; Collin, P.; Rissanen, H.; Lohi, O.; Bravi, E.; Gasparin, M.; Reunanen, A.; et al. (2007).  Increasing prevalence of coeliac disease over time. Aliment. Pharmacol. Ther. 2007, 26, 1217–1225.

Catassi, C.; Kryszak, D.; Bhatti, B.; Sturgeon, C.; Helzlsouer, K.; Clipp, S.L.; Gelfond, D.; Puppa, E.; Sferruzzan, A.; Fasano, A. (2010).  Natural history of celiac disease autoimmunity in a USA cohort followed since 1974. Ann. Med. 2010, 42, 530-538

(3) Thorup, A.C.; Gregersen, S.; Jeppesen, P.B. (2014).  Ancient wheat diet delays diabetes development in a type 2 diabetes animal model. Rev. Diabet. Stud. 2014, 114, 1035–1045

(4) Sofi, F.; Whittaker, A.; Cesari, F.; Gori, A.M.; Fiorillo, C.; Becatti, M.; Marotti, I.; Dinelli, G.; Casini, A.; Abbate, R.; et al. (2013).  Characterization of Khorasan wheat (Kamut) and impact of a replacement diet on cardiovascular risk factors: cross-over dietary intervention study. Eur. J. Clin. Nutr. 2013, 67, 190–195

(5) Sereni, A.; Cesari, F.; Gori, A.M.; Maggini, N.; Marcucci, R.; Casini, A.; Sofi, F. (2017).  Cardiovascular benefits from ancient grain bread consumption: findings from a double-blinded randomized crossover intervention trial. Int. J. Food Sci. Nutr. 2017, 68, 97–103.

(6) Stamataki, N.S.; Yanni, A.E.; Karathanos, V.T. (2017).  Bread making technology influences postprandial glucose response: A review of the clinical evidence. Br. J. Nutr. 2017, 117, 1001–1012

(7) Hidalgo, A.; Brandolini, A. (2014).  Nutritional properties of einkorn wheat (Triticum monococcum L.). J. Sci. Food Agric. 2014, 94, 601–612.

Abdel-Aal, E.S.M.; Young, J.C.; Rabalski, I.; Hucl, P.; Fregeau-Reid, J. (2007).  Identification and quantification of seed carotenoids in selected wheat species. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2007, 55, 787–794

(8) Durazzo, A.; Lucarini, M.; Souto, E.B.; Cicala, C.; Caiazzo, E.; Izzo, A.A.; Novellino, E.; Santini, A. (8)  Polyphenols: A concise overview on the chemistry, occurrence, and human health. Phytother. Res. 2019.

(9) Dinelli, G.; Segura-Carretero, A.; Di Silvestro, R.; Marotti, I.; Arráez-Román, D.; Benedettelli, S.; Ghiselli, L.;Fernadez-Gutierrez, A. (2011).  Profiles of phenolic compounds in modern and old common wheat varieties determined by liquid chromatography coupled with time-of-flight mass spectrometry. J. Chromatogr. A 2011,1218, 7670–7681

(10) Taneyo Saa, D.; Turroni, S.; Serrazanetti, D.I.; Rampelli, S.; Maccaferri, S.; Candela, M.; Severgnini, M.; Simonetti, E.; Brigidi, P.; Gianotti, A.(2014).  Impact of Kamut® Khorasan on gut microbiota and metabolome in healthy volunteers. Food Res. Int. 2014, 63, 227–232

(11) Barone, F.; Laghi, L.; Gianotti, A.; Ventrella, D.; Saa, D.L.T.; Bordoni, A.; Forni, M.; Brigidi, P.; Bacci, M.L.; Turroni, S. (2018).  In Vivo Effects of Einkorn Wheat (Triticum monococcum) Bread on the Intestinal Microbiota, Metabolome, and on the Glycemic and Insulinemic Response in the Pig Model. Nutrients 2018, 11, 16

(12) Dinu, M.; Whittaker, A.; Pagliai, G.; Giangrandi, I.; Colombini, B.; Gori, A.M.; Fiorillo, C.; Becatti, M.; Casini, A.; Benedettelli, S.; et al. (2018). A Khorasan Wheat-Based Replacement Diet Improves Risk Profile of Patients with Nonalcoholic Fatty Liver Disease (NAFLD): A Randomized Clinical Trial. J. Am. Coll. Nutr. 2018, 37, 508–514

(13) 7. Spisni, E.; Valerii, M.C.; De Fazio, L.; Rotondo, E.; Di Natale, M.; Giovanardi, E.; Posabella, G.; Bregola, V.; Stenico, V.; Sferrazza, R.E.; et al.  A Khorasan wheat-based diet improves systemic inflammatory profile in semi-professional basketball players: A randomized crossover pilot study. J. Sci. Food Agric. 2019

(14) Sereni, A.; Cesari, F.; Gori, A.M.; Maggini, N.; Marcucci, R.; Casini, A.; Sofi, F. (2017).  Cardiovascular benefits from ancient grain bread consumption: findings from a double-blinded randomized crossover intervention trial. Int. J. Food Sci. Nutr. 2017, 68, 97–103

(15) Sofi, F.; Whittaker, A.; Gori, A.M.; Cesari, F.; Surrenti, E.; Abbate, R.; Gensini, G.F.; Benedettelli, S.; Casini, A. (2014).  Effect of Triticum turgidum subsp. turanicum wheat on irritable bowel syndrome: A double-blinded randomised dietary intervention trial. Br. J. Nutr. 2014, 111, 1992–1999. [CrossRef] [PubMed]