Consumption of specialty beers is growing, but the classic lager resists
Shelves as long as those of wines. But full of beer. Actually, beers. Next to the classic lager multiply the labels of stout English, Belgian Trappists, citrus-flavored Ale, red, non-alcoholic and radler, i.e. mixes of beer and soft drinks. The wide variety of the so-called specialty beers along with craft beers invades the shelves of the GDO, with peaks of 118 references in supermarkets and 189 in hypermarkets.
The boom of specialty beers
For a couple of years, beer consumption has stabilized at pre-crisis levels, reports Assobirra. Already from 2016 volumes returned to the 31 liters per capita of 2007. And between 2010 and 2017, while volumes of food sold by the GDO grew by an average of 2%, beer marked a +32% in value.
As evidenced by the breadth of the offer in GDO points of sale (which sells 59% of the volumes), the secret of success is diversification. Indeed, specialty beers are especially driving the recovery. From 2010 to 2017 they grew by 49.5% (70% in value, being more expensive), compared to +15% of lagers (+21.5% in value). The most suitable macro-region is the Northwest, where consumption of specialty beers – often outside the home – represents 36% of the total in Italy.
While representing just under 14% of over 18.8 million hectoliters of beer sold in Italy, the specialty beers are the undisputed protagonists of the formidable growth. The 'Drink different‘ / as defined by the report ‘Italians and craft beers’, carried out by Doxa in April 2018 for the Beer Observatory – it is now an established choice for 7 Italians out of 10. Of these, 77% declare themselves attracted by the new flavors of craft beers and 82% even believe that they are easier to pair with the Mediterranean diet. Compared to the classic pale beer, which remains the ideal pairing with pizza. An exploration of novelties that however coexists with the pleasure of the classic pale beer. 61% of respondents statein fact alternating the classic pale beer with the special ones.
Among curiosities for new flavors and supreme acceptance of new trends, the higher price does not discourage purchases. The respondents by Doxa declare themselves willing to pay more for special beers. 30% of consumers of stout, red and Trappist beers pay any price, and 10% spends up to 8 euros per bottle.
Production and export fly as internal consumption, with record numbers. Assobirra data show that in 2017 exports reached a historic high (2.7 million hectoliters), growing by 7.9%.
Same trend for production. Among the volumes produced by big and the activity of over 850 microbreweries scattered throughout Italy, the product rose by 7.5%, reaching the record value of 15.6 million hectoliters.
Italian malt production in turn grew by 3.4%, reaching 75,800 tons.
Marta Strinati

Professional journalist since January 1995, she has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and magazines (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). Author of investigative reports on food, she has published the book 'Reading labels to know what we eat'.


