Fresh spreadable and crumbled cheeses – as well as stracchino or crescenza – often contribute to the summer diet. However, the idea of a light snack is sometimes illusory, as shown by our market survey of 18 products.
The examined sample includes cheeses typical of foreign cultures, now widespread also in Italy, and fresh cheeses from the Italian tradition. Only for the latter are you lucky enough to find small local organic productions, whose value is incomparable with standard industrial productions.
Fresh and spreadable cheeses, the market survey
The survey was conducted on 18 fresh and spreadable cheeses available in Italian supermarkets. The table indicates the commercial name and price of each, as well as the nutritional values per 100 g of product, referring to:
– energy intake (Kcal, or 'calories'),
– fat,
– saturated fatty acids,
– proteins,
– salt.
The parameters adopted for the interpretation of nutritional values correspond to the Reference intakes for adults indicated in the so-called Food Information Regulation. (1) The daily reference diet for a 70 kg adult, according to these parameters, includes:
2000 kcal,
70g of total fats,
20g of saturated fatty acids,
50g of proteins,
6g of salt. NB: WHO recommends not exceeding 5g of salt per day.
food additives – especially emulsifiers, with possible negative interactions on microbiota and intestinal health, as seen – are present in some products. In the tables we have highlighted in yellow those to be consumed in moderation, in green those without negative scientific evidence.
Nutritional profiles and additives, suitability for vegetarians
Nutritional profiles and additives potentially problematic are also the basis of the evaluation by the Yuka app, whose judgments on each product are reported. Remembering that the nutritional evaluation expressed by Yuka is based on the system NutriScore.
Suitability for vegetarians the suitability of the various examined products is evident from the presence of rennet, generally of animal origin. On some labels, the vegetable or microbial origin is specified, while on others it is absent. The Philadelphia Mousse, not included in our selection, is also incompatible with a vegetarian diet due to gelatin (itself of animal origin, unless otherwise indicated).
Fresh spreadable cheeses, the Philadelphia case
Philadelphia is one of the best-known fresh spreadable cheeses. The producer Mondelez (Kraft-Heinz group) describes it as the heir to American fresh cheeses. Launched in Italy in the 1970s, with major advertising investments culminating in the early 1990s with the hit commercial featuring the exotic Kaori (a US model of Japanese origin).
100g of this type of cheese is enough to reach half or the entire daily portion of saturated fats for a 70 kg adult, depending on the product.
The ingredients of Philadelphia are always pasteurized milk, cream, salt and additives. Problematic thickeners, needless to say. The Original version has been reformulated – in a 'style' declared 'creamier' – with the same ingredients but less salt, more protein and calories. The Light version loses one additive out of three (the least concerning emulsifier), has less fat and more protein (enough to use the claim ‘source of proteins').
'Philadelphia style', saturated fats galore with only one exception
The only product indicated by Yuka as excellent in this category is Philadelphia Protein BenEssere. Thanks to the addition of a milk protein concentrate and the use of skimmed milk. Two claim nutritional, rich in proteins and a natural source of calcium.
The origin of the milk It is never indicated. A legitimate omission, until the EU rules change, since Philadelphia is produced in Spain. Except for the Protein version, which is made in Germany.
The ‘Philadelphia’ style is also taken up by some Italian brands like Coop and Nonno Nanni. Below are the tables which in both cases, as in all others except Philadelphia Protein, abound in saturated fats.
Fresh cottage cheeses, the Jocca mystery
Another product freshly introduced in Italy in the 1970s is Jocca. Much appreciated because it is considered light and low in fat, it hides a mystery. Rennet (of animal origin) is not listed among the ingredients, but it is mentioned in the production process description. When in doubt, it should be considered unsuitable for a vegetarian diet.
In this genre other products fare better, with less fat and more protein. Overall, they are all considered excellent by Yuka. Among the top two products, the Coop one seems preferable, free of additives and with microbial rennet. The other, Exquisa, does a bit better nutritionally but does not avoid a thickener and animal rennet.
Stracchino and crescenza
Stracchino and crescenza are fresh cheeses of the Italian tradition. Typical of Lombardy, they are now produced throughout the peninsula. It is said that the name 'stracchino' is linked to the use of milk from ‘stracche’ (tired) cows during the descent to the valley after grazing. Crescenza reportedly gets its name from the increase in mass of the cheese during brief ripening. With all due respect to lost traditions during the industrial revolution, the two names are today considered synonyms.
Our selection includes the ‘classic’ versions of stracchino and crescenza and the ‘soft’ ones, in which, to the traditional recipe – milk, lactic ferments, salt, and rennet – additional milk fats (cream or milk cream) are added.
Except for for the ‘light’ of Certosa and Granarolo, 100g of these cheeses are enough to burn half or the entire recommended daily dose of saturated fats for a 70 kg adult.
Marta Strinati
Notes
(1) EU reg 1169/11, Annex XIII, Part B. Reference intakes for adults
Professional journalist since January 1995, has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and magazines (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). Author of journalistic investigations on food, published the book 'Reading labels to know what we eat'.
