Aluminum-free deodorants can contain other unwanted substances. The German magazine Öko Test has examined and analyzed in the laboratory 39 roll-on types, of which 13 are also available in Italy. (1)
The role of aluminum in deodorants
Aluminum salts They are added to the formula of antiperspirant deodorants because of their ability to clog pores and limit sweating. However, excessive exposure to aluminum is linked to neurotoxic effects and kidney damage.
Aluminum Moreover, it accumulates in the body. Therefore, although absorption of the metal through the skin by using deodorants is minimal, it adds up to various other sources of daily exposure, which also occur through disposable films and trays, cans, pans, coffee makers, and pots. (2)
Aluminum-free roll-ons, how to recognize them
The offer of roll-on deodorants without aluminum is now wide enough to be accessible for all budgets. These products do not inhibit sweating but aim to eliminate odor through active ingredients with antimicrobial properties and fragrances. They can be found in pharmacies, parapharmacies, herbal shops, supermarkets, and, of course, online.
Certified deodorants As natural cosmetics, they never contain aluminum (and problematic and/or polluting synthetic substances). Others are recognizable by the presence of the claims ‘without aluminum’, ‘without aluminum salts’ or ‘0% aluminum’.
Laboratory analyses
Roll-on deodorants They were analyzed in various independent laboratories commissioned by Öko Test to identify questionable or concerning ingredients:
– substances that release formaldehyde, a contact allergen that can irritate the skin. Since 2019, the use of pure formaldehyde as a preservative in cosmetics has been banned. However, the use of substances that can break down and release it is still allowed. Products sold in the EU containing such substances must soon bear the label 'releases formaldehyde' if a certain concentration is exceeded. However, products without the warning may be sold until summer 2026. (3)
– nitro-musk compounds and polycyclic musk, allergenic and non-biodegradable,
– cashmeran, artificial fragrance that can accumulate in human adipose tissue and is difficult to biodegrade,
– diethyl phthalate (DEP), a substance recently banned by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) because it is suspected of affecting human hormone levels,
– fragrances that require declaration because they can trigger allergies (such as hydroxycitronellal) and aluminum.
Claim and formula
The label analysis instead served to verify four aspects:
1) the presence among the ingredients of PEG and their derivatives (petroleum-based substances) and synthetic polymers. The former are used as emulsifiers and make the skin permeable, thus transporting any harmful substances. The latter are highly polluting to the environment, as they disperse through household waste water from showers,
2) the validity of advertising claims such as 'hypoallergenic' or 'climate neutral',
3) the truthfulness of statements regarding the use of recycled plastic material in bottles. Besides verifying plausibility, Öko Test conducted laboratory analyses to detect any presence of PVC/PVDC/chlorinated compounds,
4) the reliability of deodorant duration, when indicated on the label (usually 48 hours). Producers were required to show efficacy studies to verify
– whether the advertised duration of action refers to the entire product or only to some components of the formulation,
– whether at least 20 subjects and three expert examiners are involved in the olfactory tests,
– whether a statistically significant difference has emerged between treated and untreated armpits and if individual results are available.
Certified natural and organic cosmetics
The deodorants examined roll-on deodorants certified as natural or organic cosmetics are generally free of unwanted and/or polluting substances, such as PEGs.
Of the five examined, four are rated with the highest marks: Benecos, Dr. Hauschka, Lavera and Weleda.
Biotherm, on the other hand, is downgraded to ‘medium’ for insufficient deodorant duration compared to the declared one (24 hours), lack of recycled material use in packaging, and the declared (but not detected in the lab) presence of citronellol, a fragrance with allergy risk.
Big brands and discount stores
Among the eight deodorants roll-ons presented as ‘aluminum-free’ the judgement is more variable.
Only two are rated as ‘very good’: Nuxe and Cien. The latter is from Lidl’s cosmetics line, very economical and usually formulated without unwanted ingredients. The deodorant from L’Occitane is good.
The worst
According to Öko Test analyses, among the thirteen deodorants available also in Italy, there are four that do not pass the test:
Two are judged mediocre:
– Avène loses points due to the presence of a PEG derivative and polluting synthetic polymers in the formulation. Additionally, the packaging does not contain recycled plastic and a complete study on the declared efficacy was not provided.
– Nivea Original Care 0%, in addition to containing PEG derivatives and plastic compounds, provided a study on efficacy judged unclear by Öko Test.
Another two are judged poor:
– Dove (Unilever) is criticized for failing to provide complete documentation on the declared deodorant efficacy on the label and on the use of recycled material in the packaging. The product also contains PEG derivatives and problematic fragrances, such as isoeugenol, one of the most potent allergens among fragrances.
– Vichy (L’Oreal group) is rejected because the ingredients include PEGs and laboratory tests have identified significant amounts of formaldehyde. The ‘hypoallergenic’ claim is also contested, as it may confuse allergic consumers, and the failure to provide evidence on the declared effectiveness and the use of recycled plastic in the packaging is criticized.
Marta Strinati
Notes
(1) Dimitrj Rudenko, Giulia Dibiasi. Marken wenig dufte. Öko test. June 2024 https://www.oekotest.de/
(2) Marta Strinati. Aluminum and food, how to reduce contamination risk. Food Times. 12/19/19
(3) COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) 2023/1464 of 14 July 2023 amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing products. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/IT/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32023R1464
Professional journalist since January 1995, she has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and magazines (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). Author of journalistic investigations on food, she published the book 'Reading labels to know what we eat'.
