Bellone (Cacchione), an ancient treasure of Lazio

The  Bellone – native white wine from Lazio, already celebrated by Pliny the Elder and recently surviving the phylloxera epidemic – is a 'liquid testimony' of history dating back to ancient Rome. Its alternative name, Cacchione, ironically refers to the large size of the berry.

The  taste profile of this wine, characterized by the sea saltiness of the coastal and volcanic soils of Lazio, distinguishes it clearly from others. And despite its rich heritage, Bellone is a rare treasure with limited production, offering an  authentic flavor and exclusive of Italian viticulture for demanding and passionate buyers.

History and ancient origins

The  Bellone, locally known as  Cacchione in the coastal areas south of Rome, represents one of the  white berry grape varieties most historically significant in Italy, with documented origins dating back toRoman antiquity.

Pliny the Elder declared this native grape variety – in the work ‘Naturalis Historia’ (77-79 AD) – as ‘pantastic grape’ and ‘bread grape’, meaning ‘a grape as good as bread’ or ‘a grape that goes well with bread’.

Archaeological evidence and ampelographic studies confirm the presence of Bellone in the Lazio region, since the times of ancient Rome, in the south-eastern hills known as  Colli Albani and in the coastal areas near Anzio and Nettuno.

The phylloxera miracle

Among its most extraordinary characteristics, the  Bellone is one of the few European grape varieties that still grows on its  original rootstock, having survived the devastating phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century. The  sandy soils of the coastal areas near  Anzio and Nettuno provided natural protection from the root-destroying parasite, allowing ungrafted vines to survive while all other European vineyards required grafting onto American rootstock. This extraordinary resilience makes Bellone a living link to ancient Roman viticulture.

Terroir and climate of Bellone

Bellone thrives in the  volcanic and sandy soils of Lazio, in the provinces of Rome and Latina. It is particularly associated with the Terroir coastal areas around Anzio, Nettuno, and Cori, where the Mediterranean breezes and the saline influences of the sea impart its characteristic salty and mineral notes. Mild winters, hot summers, and high humidity in the region favor optimal growth, while potassium-rich volcanic ash enhances the structural balance and aromatic complexity of the wine.

The  soil features marine, alluvial, and aeolian sediments from the Pleistocene and Holocene, extending inland to the Lepini and Ausoni mountains where limestone formations alternate with volcanic deposits and red earth soils.

The area benefits from a  microclimate unique microclimate where humid Tyrrhenian currents meet cooler mountain air, creating ideal conditions that have supported Bellone cultivation for millennia.

Distinctive organoleptic profile

I Bellone wines offer a  unique sensory profile that sets them apart in the landscape of Italian white wines:

• on the nose, they typically reveal aromas of  yellow peach, wild herbs, broom flowers, and a delicate sea saltiness, with intense fruity notes characterized by prominent citrus accents and subtle  mineral nuances;

• to the  palate are characteristic the medium or full body with high acidity, medium to medium-high intensity, flavors of lemon, yellow apple, pear, peach, pineapple, papaya, and toasted notes, supported by a mineral background, with a finish of ripe citrus and almonds.

The  late harvest styles can reveal hints of  Honey, beeswax and subtle oxidative tones, demonstrating the versatility of the variety to produce both  dry wines and  sweet winesThe naturally high acidity also makes Bellone particularly suitable for the production of exceptional sparkling wines with traditional methods.

Production and rarity

Despite its  , the Bellone remains a, Bellone remains a  rare treasure in modern viticulture. Current cultivation covers about  100 hectares throughout Italy and is almost exclusively concentrated in  Lazio, where it is characterized as one of  native varieties most exclusive. Of the limited production of Nero Buono (a related variety), 90 of the 91.5 hectares are concentrated only in  Cori, demonstrating the highly localized nature of these ancient varieties.

The grapevine is appreciated for its  vigorous growth, the  drought resistance and thick skin, elements that make it particularly suitable for organic farming practices organic. Contemporary producers adopt low-intervention methods precisely to highlight the authentic characteristics of Bellone, which some cooperatives historically recognize by paying premium prices compared to other grapes to preserve these native varieties.

Geographical indications

The  Bellone enjoys official recognition within various Geographical Indications protected at European level:

• Lazio IGPBellone can be vinified as  single-varietal wine or used in blend of white wines;

• Cori DOC requires a minimum of85% Bellone for varietal wines;

• Roma DOCBellone serves as the main white grape for  Blend Bianco;

• Marino DOC e Nettuno DOC allow the production of  pure Bellone;

• Frascati DOC/DOCG allows only up to  30% of Bellone in the blend;

• Castelli Romani DOC includes Bellone as  blending component.

In the  coastal areas traditional, wines are still to be labeled as Cacchione, reflecting the local nomenclature and expression of the Terroir. The name Cacchione might raise a smile, as it echoes an Italian slang word for ‘large penis’, although it simply refers to the large size of the berry.

Traditional and modern winemaking practices

Historically, Bellone was vinified in neutral containers to preserve its freshness and fruity character. Contemporary winemakers are also exploring innovative techniques while respecting traditional methods:

• traditional producers have long employed slow and gentle pressing techniques due to the grape’s skins rich in pectins and polyphenols, using fermentation in cement tanks with  extended macerations to naturally preserve the wine’s distinctive mineral and saline characteristics. These time-honored methods remain essential to express the authentic Terroir of Bellone;

• contemporary winemakers are expanding on these foundations with innovative approaches including skin maceration at controlled temperatures (18°-20°C) in open tonneaux for maximum aromatic extraction. Many producers now employ spontaneous fermentation with  indigenous yeasts for an expression of the Terroir enhanced, while sur lie aging develops richness and complexity;

• additional techniques include  aging in amphora and oak for texture and structure, as well as the production of  sparkling wines with traditional method that capitalizes on Bellone’s naturally high acidity.

Guidelines for international buyers

The  Bellone offers international buyers an exceptional opportunity to source an  authentic Italian white with  excellent value for money and strong territorial character from coastal and volcanic vineyards:

• its natural drought resistance makes it particularly suitable for theorganic farming, a choice increasingly favored by demanding consumers looking for wines free from synthetic pesticide residues, as well as truly sustainable;

• the combination of  bond historical with the territories e expressive flavor profile can attract those who favor quality and authenticity towards Bellone;

• limited production ensures  exclusivity, making every bottle a distinctive discovery in an increasingly standardized global market.

This native wine is particularly suitable for wine shops, natural wine stores and sommelier specialized who seek to offer something truly distinctive and rooted in  Italian heritage.

The team of GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) is available to assist international buyers in identifying reliable suppliers of certified Bellone wines, ensuring traceability, sustainability, and quality.

Positioning in the global market and future prospects

With the growth ofinternational interest for  native grape varieties and the low intervention winemaking, Bellone can find new admirers beyond Italy, particularly in  China, in the  United Kingdom, in  Japan and in the  Northern Europe. The wine's versatility makes it an excellent pairing for seafood, vegetable dishes, aged cheeses, and the classic  Roman cuisine such as ‘cacio e pepe’ or ‘carbonara’ pasta.

Recent  collaborative projects between producers and  archaeological institutions, including vine plantings in the Archaeological Park of the Colosseum on the Palatine Hill, aim to increase the international visibility of Bellone's historical significance. Some cooperatives are also collaborating with  historic sites to create educational experiences of  wine tourism capable of combining ancient history with contemporary oenological excellence.

With the growing appreciation for the authentic expression of Terroir and sustainable viticulture, Bellone is well positioned to become a symbol of the  wine renaissance of Lazio and of the rich Italian heritage of native varieties.

Conclusions

The  Bellone, or  Cacchione, embodies the  historical depth, theterritorial identity and the oenological promise of the wine heritage of Lazio. Its distinctive  sensory qualities, the natural vocation for  organic production and the growing international profile make it an interesting choice for the most demanding buyers. While remaining relatively unknown compared to the more famous Italian varieties, Bellone therefore deserves to undertake a path of  rediscovery e renewed prestige, representing both ancient tradition and modern innovation in the diverse landscape of  native grape varieties Italian.

The survival of  non-grafted Bellone vines represents more than a viticultural curiosity, as it offers a  direct connection with the wines enjoyed by the  ancient Romans, making each bottle a  liquid testimony By two millennia of continuous cultivation in the countryside surrounding the eternal city.

Dario Dongo

Cover: Bellone grape, courtesy of L’Oro delle Donne farm, Lanuvio (Rome)

References

Arsial. (2022). Indigenous grapes of Lazio: monograph on the conservation and enhancement of viticultural biodiversity. Lazio Region, PSR Lazio Operation 10.2.1. https://www.arsial.it/2022/03/28/vitigni-autoctoni-regionali-ecco-il-volume/

ISMEA – Institute of Services for the Agricultural Food Market. (2024).  Report on the Italian agri-food sector 2024. Rome: ISMEA Publications. Retrieved from  https://www.ismea.it/

Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies. (2023).  Production regulations for DOP and IGP wines of Lazio. Rome: MIPAAF – General Directorate for the promotion of agri-food quality and horse racing.

Myles, S., Boyko, A. R., Owens, C. L., Brown, P. J., Grassi, F., Aradhya, M. K., … & Buckler, E. S. (2011). Genetic structure and domestication history of the grape.  Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 108(9), 3530-3535.  https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.1009363108

Plinius Secundus, G. (77-79 AD/1949–1954).  Naturalis Historia (H. Rackham, Trans.; Vol. IV, Book XVIII, Chap. 27). Harvard University Press. (Original work published 77–79 C.E.)

Quattrocalici Wine Database. (2024).  Bellone grape variety: Ampelographic characteristics and winemaking properties. Retrieved from  https://www.quattrocalici.com/wine-grapes/bellone/

Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012).  Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours. London: Allen Lane. ISBN: 978-1-84614-446-2