Ancestral wine: identity and perspectives

Ancestral method: the rediscovery by Italian winemakers

The  ancestral method is considered the oldest form of producing naturally sparkling wines in Europe. Before the codification of the traditional method and the Martinotti-Charmat method, the Bottle refermentation occurred empirically, taking advantage of the winter interruption of alcoholic fermentation and its spring resumption (Robinson et al., 2012).

In Italy, this practice is historically associated with peasant productions in northern Italy, particularly in the areas of the Northeast and Emilia, where slightly cloudy and lively wines accompanied daily consumption. Starting from the 2000s, some Italian oenologists and winemakers have recovered the ancestral method in a modern way, integrating it with microbiological knowledge, fermentation control and attention to quality of the grapes, often within the natural wine movement  natural wines and organic (Goode & Harrop, 2011).

Terroir, agronomic practices and sustainability

The production of ancestral wine in Italy is not limited to a single area, but develops in several territorial contexts, each with specific pedoclimatic characteristics. Among the most representative areas are  Veneto (where the Col fondo veneto represents the most consolidated historical tradition), the  Friuli-Venezia Giulia, theEmilia-Romagna (with Lambruschi refermented in bottle), the  Lombardy (Franciacorta and Oltrepò Pavese) and, more recently, some areas of central Italy (Marche, Umbria) and southern (Campania, Sicily).

I grape varieties mainly used are  indigenous, characterized by high natural acidity, balanced ripening and good aromatic profile, such as Glera, Lambrusco (in its various types), Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, Moscato, Trebbiano, Grechetto, Erbaluce, Garganega, Verdicchio and other minor local varieties (Anderson & Pinilla, 2018).

From an agronomic point of view, the vast majority of ancestral wine producers adopt practices of  organic or biodynamic viticulture, with low-impact soil management, non-use of synthetic pesticides, cover cropping, controlled grassing and enhancement of biodiversity. According to SINAB (National Information System on Organic Farming) data, in 2024 the Utilized Agricultural Area (UAA) dedicated to grape vines cultivated with organic methods in Italy reached 128,929 hectares, equal to 21% of the total UAA destined for vines (SINAB, 2025).

The literature highlights a significant correlation between ancestral method productions and agroecology, also motivated by technical necessities: healthy, balanced grapes with intact indigenous microbial flora are fundamental prerequisites for the success of spontaneous refermentation (Capozzi et al., 2015; Berbegal et al., 2017).

Production method: distinctive elements and oenological aspects

The  ancestral method (or  méthode ancestrale, or  pétillant naturel, abbreviated as  pét-nat) distinctly differs from modern sparkling winemaking methods for several fundamental technical aspects, as explained below.

Primary fermentation and bottling

Alcoholic fermentation is started as for a still wine, generally with  indigenous yeasts (wild yeasts) naturally present on the grape skins and in the winery environment, without inoculation of selected cultures of  Saccharomyces cerevisiae. When the residual sugar content reaches on average 10-25 g/L (values vary depending on the desired final pressure and refermentation temperature), the fermentation is stopped by  cooling and the wine is bottled  without sterile filtration e without addition of sugars (liqueur de tirage) or exogenous yeasts (Bokulich et al., 2016).

Bottle refermentation

The refermentation occurs thanks to indigenous yeasts still present in the wine, which metabolize the residual sugars producing alcohol and carbon dioxide. The generated pressure is generally between  1.5 and 4 atmospheres, lower compared to classic method sparkling wines (≥5 atm) but sufficient to provide appreciable effervescence (Torresi et al., 2011).

No disgorgement and presence of sediments

Unlike the  classic method (méthode champenoise), disgorging is not expected (disgorging) obligatory: most ancestral wines are marketed  with their own sediments (sur lie), giving variable turbidity and gustatory complexity. Some producers however perform a manual artisanal disgorging, which remains a minority practice.

Differences compared to the Martinotti-Charmat method

Compared to the  Martinotti method (or Charmat), there is a complete absence of fermentation in autoclave, controlled inoculation of selected yeasts and programmed addition of sugars. This reinforces the artisanal and territorial character of the product, but also increases unpredictability and organoleptic variability between different vintages and batches (Petruzzi et al., 2017).

Microbiological control and enological risks

Spontaneous fermentation involves significant technical risks:  acetic fermentations (due to  Acetobacter spp.), development of Brett (Brettanomyces spp.), production of biogenic amines (histamine, tyramine) and undesirable sulfur compounds. To minimize these risks, the most careful producers operate under strict hygienic conditions, control temperature and pH, use sulfur dioxide in minimal doses (generally

Ancestral wine and the natural wine movement

Ancestral wine is partly framed within the scope of  natural wines (natural wines), although the definition of ‘natural wine’ itself does not yet enjoy a unique regulatory recognition in the EU. Natural wines are characterized by: spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, minimal use of enological additives (usually only trace or absent sulfites), absence of invasive technological corrections, originating from organic or biodynamic farming (Goode & Harrop, 2011; Alonso González & Parga-Dans, 2020).

Ancestral wine responds to all these criteria, indeed representing one of the most characteristic expressions of the natural movement – ​​represented by associations such as  VinNatur (Italy),  Renaissance des Appellations (international) and  S.A.I.N.S (Spain) – given the total absence of post-fermentation interventions such as filtrations, clarifications, stabilizations, and exogenous additions.

Regulations and associations

In Italy there is currently no specific national regulation dedicated to ancestral wine. An important role is played by associations of independent winemakers, such as the Italian Federation of Independent Winemakers (FIVI), VinNatur, Triple A and informal networks of artisan producers that promote production transparency, spontaneous fermentations, and reduction of enological additives, even without a dedicated regulatory framework.

The ancestral method is also beginning to be established among conventional wine producers. Some Designations of Origin in fact include mentions that refer to this production method, such as the  Prosecco DOC ‘col fondo’ (bottle refermented without disgorging) and some lines of  Lambrusco produced with bottle refermentation.

Organoleptic properties

From a sensory point of view, ancestral wine is characterized by a  delicate and irregular effervescence, often less persistent and more 'rustic' compared to traditional sparkling wines, with a coarse and fleeting perlage. On the nose emerge yeast notes (fresh bread, bread crust, brioche),  fresh fruit (apple, pear, citrus), hints  herbaceous or floral (acacia, elderflower, hay),  sweet spices and sometimes characters  fungal or mineral, strongly influenced by the grape variety, the year and the fermentative dynamics (Ribéreau-Gayon et al., 2021).

On the palate, thelively acidity, the  moderate alcohol content (generally 10.5-12.5% vol) and the slight presence of  residual sugars (not always perceptible on the palate, typically 3-12 g/L) make these wines particularly drinkable and gastronomic, with a profile favoring freshness, sapidity and immediacy. The  presence of sediments contributes to a unique tactile sensation, which enhances the perception of volume and persistence.

Natural wines, production and market in Italy

Italian ancestral wine producers are predominantly  small artisanal companies (vineyard surfaces Costadilà (Veneto, Col fondo),  La Biancara (Veneto),  Denavolo (Emilia-Romagna, Malvasia),  Cascina Tavijn (Piedmont, Erbaluce),  Camillo Donati (Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco),  Frank Cornelissen (Sicily), BIO Social Winery Orsogna (Abruzzo) and many others.

The Raisin analysis ‘Natural Wine Market Analysis: 2016 to 2024’ highlights that in Italy there are currently about 739 natural wine producers out of a total of about 30,000 wineries, which means that natural wines represent about 2.5% of Italian wineries. A slightly higher percentage than the share of natural wine producers in France (about 2.03% of the total).

The market of natural wines in Italy has experienced extraordinary growth between 2016 and 2024, mainly driven by an increase in venues (bars, restaurants, wine shops) offering them. In 2016, Italy had only 46 dedicated venues, while in 2024 the number rose to 1,623. These data place Italy second worldwide for the number of venues dedicated to natural wines, just after France and ahead of the United States, Spain, and Japan.

Distribution channels and positioning

Italian ancestral wines find an outlet mainly through channels specialized: niche wine shops, natural wine bars, organic stores, informal quality catering, direct sales at the winery and dedicated e-commerce. Large-scale retail remains substantially absent from this segment, except for rare exceptions.

The  average retail price ranges between 7 and 30 euros per 0.75L bottle, with peaks above 40 euros for labels from the most renowned producers or particular vintages. This is a premium positioning, justified by low yields (generally

International markets

At the international level, Italian ancestral wines find an outlet especially in the European (France, Germany, Netherlands, Scandinavian countries, United Kingdom),  North American (United States, Canada) and  Asian (Japan, South Korea) premium segment, where they are appreciated as niche products with high cultural value and strong storytelling.

Challenges and perspectives

The main sector challenges concern:

• qualitative standardization: the intrinsic organoleptic variability of the method may generate distrust among less experienced consumers;

• regulatory recognition: the absence of a European legal definition of 'natural wine' and 'ancestral method' hinders protection and enhancement possibilities (Alonso González & Parga-Dans, 2020);

• consumer education: it is necessary to effectively communicate the method’s specificities and manage sensory expectations (turbidity, variability).

• microbiological control: ensuring stability and shelf-life without compromising the natural identity of the product.

The prospects remain positive, supported by:

• increasing international demand for authenticity, natural wines and organic;

• enhancement of Italian viticultural biodiversity;

• development of new distribution models (e-commerce, wine clubs, experiential wine tourism).

Conclusions

Italian ancestral wine represents a meeting point between historical memory, oenological innovation, and sustainability. Even without specific regulatory recognition, it establishes itself as a dynamic category, capable of enhancing native grape varieties, marginal territories, and environmentally friendly production practices. For international trade and qualified operators, ancestral wine constitutes a segment of growing strategic interest, able to meet the global demand for authenticity and identityterritorial, at the same time representing a frontier of oenological experimentation and a rediscovery of the Italian winemaking tradition.

Dario Dongo

Credit cover: BIO Cantina Sociale Orsogna (CH) 

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