Amaretti: the Italian confectionery excellence between history and rules

From the Sanctuary to the Court: the epic of amaretti

According to the tradition reported by the Lazzaroni family, in 1718 the Cardinal of Milan visited the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin of Miracles in Saronno (Varese). A young couple prepared in his honor cookies made of sugar, apricot kernels (almonds) and egg white. The success was such that the family Lazzaroni, from 1718, linked its name to the amaretti of Saronno, wrapping them in characteristic colored papers.

The origin of the soft amaretto is instead attributed to a later period, between late eighteenth century and early nineteenth century. First in Piedmont, in Mombaruzzo (Asti), thanks to the initiative of a Sicilian cook in a pastry shop opened by the former steward of the House of Savoy Francesco Moriondo. Then in Liguria, in Sassello (Savona), where local pastry chefs perfected a recipe still substantially unchanged today.

In the 1960s, Sassello became a true sweet district of soft amaretti.

Taste map: the geography of amaretti in Italy

In Italy, amaretti find expression in different geographical areas, each with its own peculiarities:

• Lombardy: Saronno represents the undisputed capital of dry, crunchy, and crumbly amaretti with a honeycombed internal structure. Gallarate also boasts its own tradition, while Canzo is famous for nocciolini, biscuits similar to amaretti but made with hazelnuts;

• Piedmont and Liguria: between Langhe, Monferrato and the inland Savona area (especially Sassello, Mombaruzzo, Gavi, Voltaggio and Oviglio) some of the most appreciated variants of soft amaretti are produced;

• Emilia-Romagna: Modena produces amaretti crumbly on the outside and soft inside, made with sweet and bitter almonds;

• Abruzzo: in the Marsica area, there is a consolidated tradition of amaretti with a soft and fragrant texture;

• Campania: the amaretti of Sorrento, characterized by generous size and crunchy texture, use the famous almonds of Sorrento. The amaretti of Cilento are distinguished by the addition of cinnamon in the dough;

• Tuscany: known for amaretti and ricciarelli, with numerous local variations;

• Lazio: produces amaretti from Guarcino and royal pastries from Alvito;

• Sardinia: the Sardinian ‘amarettos’ and ‘sospiros’ are characterized by the use of local almonds, including the bitter ones from Baressa;

• Sicily: the production of amaretti in Sicily is in turn linked to the varieties of almonds grown on the island, and to the monastic tradition of the pastry chef.

Dry amaretto: the identity carved in the decree

The ministerial decree of July 22, 2005, as amended by the subsequent decree of May 16, 2017 – containing the regulations on the production and sale of certain baked confectionery products – reserves the denomination amaretto at the ‘pastry biscuit a dry dough having:

• shape characteristic rounded, with

• structure crystalline and alveolate and

• surface upper cracked and

• taste typical of bitter almond,

• with possible addition of sugar granules’, and

• humidity less than 3%‘ (DM 22.7.05, article 5).

Mandatory ingredients

The dough of the amaretto contains the following Mandatory ingredients:

‘a) sugar (sucrose);

b) apricot kernels (bitter kernels), with fat content over 45%, almonds, singly or in combination, in quantities sufficient to guarantee not less than 13%;

c) egg white from hen‘ (DM 22.7.05, article 5).

Optional ingredients

The Optional ingredients allowed in amaretti are:

‘a) flavorings;

b) leavening agents;

c) milk: whole, skimmed in powder;

d) lactose;

e) milk proteins;

f) salt, including iodized salt‘ (DM 22.7.05, article 5).

Production process

‘The technological process of amaretto manufacture includes the following processing stages:

a) refining of dried fruit;

b) mixing of ingredients;

c) adding to the refined dough an additional quantity of egg white and sugar;

d) casting the dough;

e) baking‘ (DM 22.7.05, Annex II, point 5).

Soft amaretto: when moisture becomes a legal requirement

The denomination “soft amaretto” is in turn reserved for the

• ‘pastry biscuit a soft dough having

• shape characteristic rounded, with

• surface top cracked’ and

• ‘humidity at least8%‘ (DM 22.7.05, article 6).

Mandatory ingredients

The Mandatory ingredients of the soft amaretto are:

‘a) sugar (sucrose);

b) apricot kernels (bitter kernels), with fat content over 45%, almonds, singly or in combination, in quantities sufficient to guarantee not less than 35%;

c) egg white from hen‘ (DM 22.7.05, article 6).

Optional ingredients

The following are also allowed Optional ingredients:

• ‘a) honey;

• b) glucose syrup;

• c) flavorings;

• d) leavening agents;

• e) milk proteins;

• f) preservative: sorbic acid;

• g) preservative: potassium sorbate;

• h) humectant: sorbitol;

• i) salt including iodized salt‘ (DM 22.7.05, article 6).

Production process

‘The technological process of soft amaretto manufacturing includes the following processing stages:

a) refining of dried fruit;

b) mixing of ingredients;

c) casting of the dough;

d) baking‘ (DM 22.7.05, Annex II, point 6).

Special and enriched products

‘The producer is entitled to add (…) to the amaretto and the soft amaretto fillings,
coverings, glazings, decorations, as well as other characterizing ingredients, except (…)!of cereal flours. The finished product, however, contains at least 60% of the base dough’ – as defined for the two amaretto variants – ‘calculated on the weight of the finished product’ (DM 22.7.05, article 7).

Apricot kernels: the distinctive ingredient

The bitter kernels represent the sensory soul of amaretto, but require rigorous technical management. These are the seeds contained in the kernel of the apricot (and sometimes the peach), characterized by a high concentration of amygdalin. Some notes in this regard:

• the aromatic profile. Amygdalin is a cyanogenic glycoside that, through a hydrolysis process, releases the characteristic bitter almond aroma. This component gives amaretti their unique sensory profile, able to balance the sweetness of sugar;

• food safety and limits. Although the hydrolysis of amygdalin can release hydrocyanic acid, the process of baking of amaretti drastically reduces the presence of these compounds, making the finished product completely safe for consumption;

• imitations vs authentic amaretti. Many ‘simil-amaretto’ products on the international market use synthetic flavors (benzaldehyde) to imitate this scent. The use of real armelline, as required by the Italian disciplinary regulations, is what distinguishes the authentic Made in Italy product.

Beyond the cookie: versatility and creativity in cooking and pastry

Amaretti demonstrate extraordinary versatility in the gastronomic field, as reported in the main texts of the Italian culinary tradition.

Direct consumption and pairings

As a tea or coffee snack, or accompanied by dessert wines such as Brachetto or Moscato d’Asti or a passito wine. Il Cucchiaio d’Argento – historic Italian cooking manual published by Editoriale Domus since 1950 – includes amaretti among the ‘great classics of Italian pastry’ and recommends pairing them with sweet wines.

Traditional and contemporary pastry

Amaretti are the main ingredient in numerous cakes, tarts, and semifreddos. Among the classic preparations reported by Il Cucchiaio d’Argento and other authoritative sources:

• Bonet Piemontese: chocolate and amaretti pudding, a typical spoon dessert from the Langhe region;

• stuffed peaches Piedmontese style: the halved peaches hold a filling of crumbled amaretti, chocolate, cocoa, and sugar;

• Lombard country cake: rustic dessert that incorporates amaretti, stale bread, cocoa, and raisins;

• tiramisu with amaretti: variant of the classic tiramisu where amaretti replace the ladyfingers;

• tarts and crumbles: the addition of amaretti in the dough gives aroma and crunchiness

Ice cream and gourmet cuisine

Crumbled amaretti are also used to give crunchiness and intense aroma to ice creams, especially on cream or chocolate bases.

Some gourmet recipes also use small amounts of amaretti in savory dishes, reflecting the ongoing evolution of Italian cuisine.

Defending Made in Italy: a guide to conscious purchasing

The purchase of amaretti and soft amaretti Made in Italy ensures compliance with strict standards production regulations established in the Ministerial Decree 22.7.05, which was promoted by AIDI (Italian Confectionery Industry Association, now UnionFood) and drafted by the late friend Giuseppe De Giovanni, official of the Ministry of Productive Activities with the precise purpose of safeguarding the historical identity of certain baked confectionery products. Amaretti and soft amaretti but also ladyfingers, as well as traditional cakes for special occasions such as panettone, pandoro, colomba.

The team of GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) offers its expertise to support international buyers in finding reliable suppliers, verifying quality, traceability, and sustainability of production chains, with the aim of building long-term business relationships.

Conclusions

In a global market often saturated with 'Italian sounding' products lacking soul and quality, the Italian amaretto stands out as a bastion of authenticity. The regulations of the Ministerial Decree of July 22, 2005, guarantee value to the consumer and a competitive advantage for exporting Made in Italy excellences. Choosing the original amaretto means supporting a supply chain that for centuries has transformed simple ingredients into an unmatched sensory experience, protected by law and celebrated by global gastronomy.

References

• AA.VV. (2025). Il Silver Spoon (12th ed.). ISBN-13: 978-8833334110. Editoriale Domus.

• Silver Spoon (edited by). (2019).  The Silver Spoon (12th ed.). Milan: Editoriale Domus. [Amaretti recipes and uses in traditional Italian pastry]

• Silver Spoon. (2015).  Amaretti recipe. Available on: https://www.cucchiaio.it/ricetta/ricetta-amaretti/

• Silver Spoon. (2017).  tiramisu with amaretti. Available on: https://www.cucchiaio.it/ricetta/tiramisu-con-amaretti/

• Silver Spoon. (2023).  Recipes with amaretti. Available on: https://www.cucchiaio.it/ricette/semilavorati_amaretti~1/

• Ministry of Productive Activities. (2005).  Ministerial Decree July 22, 2005: Regulation of production and sale of certain baked confectionery products. Text modified by subsequent Ministerial Decree 16 May 2017. https://www.fippa.it/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/DM-22-luglio-2005-aggiornato-al-19-06-2017-prodotti-da-forno-panettone-colomba.pdf