Durum wheat semolina: the leadership of the Italian supply chain

Durum wheat cultivation in Italy

The  Italian durum wheat is mainly cultivated in the regions of  : Center-South: Apulia (30% of national production), Sicily (20%), Basilicata (12%), Marche, Molise, Abruzzo, and Campania cover the remaining production volume. The production concentration in the South is determined by optimal pedoclimatic factors: medium-textured soils with good organic matter content, high temperatures during the kernel filling phase, and controlled water availability that favors the accumulation of quality proteins and gluten.

The varieties of durum wheat grown in Italy include:

• modern high-yield varieties – such as  Duilio, Marco Aurelio e Claudio, Antalis, Maestrale and Iride – selected for resistance to fungal diseases, productivity, gluten quality and protein content;

• ancient wheats such as  Timilia, Turanico, Russello, Senatore Cappelli e Saragolla, currently being rediscovered and valorized in the context of agroecology.

The agronomic practices for quality durum wheat, crop rotations with grain legumes (chickpea, lentil, fava bean) are planned to maintain soil fertility, nitrogen fertilizations are fractionated and calibrated based on soil analysis to optimize protein content without excesses, rescue irrigations are applied during the critical stages of heading and grain filling in irrigated areas. Harvest takes place between June and July when the grain moisture reaches 12-14%, followed by immediate artificial drying to avoidfermentations and mycotoxin contaminations.

The market: Made in Italy and international competitiveness

The Italian semolina milling sector is represented by  Italmopa (Association of Italian Millers), which brings together 290 mills, including over 100 production plants specialized in durum wheat processing. The main Italian industrial groups such as Casillo, Molino Pivetti, and Molino Grassi combine milling tradition and technological innovation, providing high-quality semolina to national and foreign markets. The main destination markets for Italian semolina include  Germany, France, Northern European countries and extra-European markets where the quality of the Italian raw material is particularly appreciated by the food processing industry.

The growing consumer attention towards  traceability, sustainability e origin of raw materials is driving the Italian milling industry towards supply chain contracts with national producers, voluntary quality certifications (e.g., '100% Italian wheat'), and investments in regenerative agriculture to reduce the environmental impact of cereal cultivation. The Italian milling industry is characterized by strong attention to quality, transforming the best available durum wheat varieties to obtain semolinas capable of meeting the needs of Italian pasta makers and international markets (Italmopa, 2025).

Regulatory framework: legal requirements for durum wheat flours

Italian legislation – DPR 187/01 and subsequent amendments, article 2 – precisely distinguishes the durum wheat flours as follows:

• ‘durum wheat semolina', or 'semolina' is 'the coarse granular product obtained from the grinding and subsequent sieving of durum wheat, freed from foreign substances and impurities';

• ‘durum wheat semolina flour' or 'semolina flour', is 'the product obtained from the grinding and subsequent sieving of durum wheat freed from foreign substances and impurities, after extraction of the semolina';

• ‘whole durum wheat semolina' or 'whole durum wheat semolina' is 'the granular product with sharp edges obtained directly from the grinding of durum wheat freed from foreign substances and impurities';

• the production of semolina and semolato is allowed re-milled, to be used exclusively for bread making and for the consumer, as well as durum wheat flour;

• ‘durum wheat flour' is 'the product non granular obtained from the grinding and subsequent sifting of durum wheat freed from foreign substances and impurities’.

Durum wheat flours intended for trade have amaximum moisture of 14.5% (or 15.5%, referring to this data on the label) and a protein content minimum of 11.5% (10.5% for semolina).

‘È addition prohibited of organic and inorganic substances of any kind, as well as any treatment of flours with physical or chemical agents’, except for specific provisions by the Ministry of Health.

Table 1 – Legal requirements for durum wheat flours (DPR 187/01)

Distinctive characteristics of semolina

Semolina is distinguished from semolato and other durum wheat flours, according to DPR 187/01, in several aspects:

• granulometry coarser. The granulometric value in the sieving test, according to DPR 187/01, is expressed as a maximum of 25% passing through a sieve with 0.180 mm mesh size;

• minimum content of proteins 10.5%, although the best Italian semolinas can reach 13-15%;

• maximum content of ashes less than 0.90%.

The  granulometry of semolina is fundamental for its technological applications: uniform particles between 250-500 micrometers ensure optimal hydration during kneading and give pasta the characteristic granular texture that better retains sauces.

The  amber yellow color characteristic is determined by the presence of  carotenoids (mainly lutein and zeaxanthin) – compounds with proven antioxidant properties beneficial for eye and cardiovascular health – in variable amounts between 3 and 8 mg/kg (Hidalgo & Brandolini, 2014).

Theyellowness index (yellowness index), measured with a tristimulus colorimeter, is among other things an important quality parameter for the processing industry, directly influencing the visual appeal of finished products.

From kernel to semolina: milling process technology

The process of  milling of durum wheat to obtain quality semolina is divided into several technological phases, each of which influences the characteristics of the final product. The process begins with the  reception and storage of the wheat: upon arrival at the mill, the wheat undergoes qualitative analysis (hectoliter weight, moisture, proteins, gluten, impurities, mycotoxins) and is stored in silos differentiated by batch and quality, ensuring complete traceability of raw materials.

Cleaning and conditioning

The phase of  cleaning is fundamental to remove impurities present in the wheat: sieving systems, aspiration, magnetic separators, and gravity tables eliminate straw, soil, stones, foreign seeds, and metal objects. This phase is followed by  conditioning, a process that involves the controlled addition of water (wetting) to the cleaned wheat to increase moisture from the initial 12-13% to 15-16%, with resting in conditioning cells for 16-24 hours. Conditioning facilitates the detachment of the outer husks (bran) from the endosperm, improving milling efficiency and reducing cylinder wear.

Milling and sieving

The  grinding real grinding takes place through a series of successive stages (breaks and regrinding) between grooved and smooth rollers that progressively reduce the kernel, separating the vitreous endosperm from the outer husks. Durum wheat, unlike soft wheat, has a compact endosperm and crystalline that breaks into coarse particles (semolina) instead of being reduced to fine flour. This behavior is advantageous because it allows a clear separation between semolina and bran, minimizing the presence of bran fragments that would give an undesired dark color.

Thebolting (sieving) classifies milling products based on particle size: the genuine semolina is separated from the finer semolato, from small semolinas, fine flours, and bran. Modern milling plants use plansichters (multi-deck vibrating sieves) and pneumatic transport systems that ensure precise separation of different particle size fractions, optimizing yields and quality.

Quality control and storage

Each batch of produced semolina undergoes  rigorous analytical controls: in addition to parameters required by regulations (moisture, ash, protein, particle size), modern mills also assess yellow index, enzymatic activity (falling number), dough rheology (farinograph, extensograph, alveograph), and absence of contaminants (mycotoxins, pesticides, heavy metals). Compliant semolina is then stored in silos or packaged in 25 kg bags for industrial use, or in smaller packages intended for HoReCa and retail channels.

Quality parameters: gluten, yellow index, and purity

The  quality of semolina is defined by a complex set of chemical, physical, and rheological parameters that determine its suitability for industrial use and its nutritional value for the final consumer. Among the most relevant parameters are:

• protein content and gluten quality. The total protein content (Kjeldahl method, N x 5.7) must be above 10.5% dry matter, but premium semolinas reach 13-15%. More important than the quantity is the  gluten quality: gliadin and glutenin proteins must form, in the presence of water, an elastic and strong gluten network (gluten index >80), capable of retaining starch during cooking and giving to Pasta the characteristic firmness and texture ‘al dente‘. The varieties of durum wheat grown in Italy, especially those from the South, are genetically selected to produce gluten of high technological quality;

• carotenoids and color. The presence of carotenoid pigments (lutein 2-5 mg/kg, zeaxanthin 0.5-1.5 mg/kg) gives the semolina an intense amber yellow color highly appreciated by consumers. Carotenoids, in addition to their aesthetic value, have proven  antioxidant properties and protective effects for the retina, reducing the risk of age-related macular degeneration (Hidalgo & Brandolini, 2014). Carotenoid content is influenced by variety, growing conditions (high sunlight promotes synthesis), and post-harvest storage methods;

• ashes and purity. The content of  ashes (inorganic residue after combustion at 900°C) must not exceed 0.90% dry matter in semolina. High values indicate contamination from peripheral parts of the grain (bran) during milling, reducing product purity. High-quality semolinas have ash content between 0.70-0.80%, indicating effective endosperm/bran separation.

Nutritional profile: Glycemic Index and antioxidants

From a nutritional point of view, durum wheat semolina is an excellent source of complex carbohydrates (mainly starches, 70-75% on dry matter), providing slow-release energy that promotes a  moderate glycemic index (45-55) compared to other refined cereals (Chiavaroli et al., 2018). The content of  dietary fiber ranges from 2.5-3.5% in sifted semolina up to 8-10% in wholemeal semolinas that retain part of the outer layers rich in cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. Fiber intake is associated with benefits for intestinal health, glycemic regulation, and blood cholesterol reduction (Bustos et al., 2011).

Semolina is also a natural source of  B group vitamins (thiamine B1, riboflavin B2, niacin B3, folic acid B9), essential for energy metabolism and nucleic acid synthesis. The  minerals present in appreciable amounts include phosphorus (120-150 mg/100g), magnesium (45-60 mg/100g), iron (1.5-2.0 mg/100g, although in a poorly bioavailable form), zinc and selenium. The  wholemeal semolina retain higher amounts of fat-soluble micronutrients (vitamin E, tocopherols) and phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity, mainly located in the outer layers of the kernel.

Epidemiological studies associate the regular consumption of durum wheat-based products whole with a reduction in the risk of cardiovascular diseases, type 2 diabetes, and some types of tumors, thanks to the synergistic effect of fiber, antioxidants and bioactive phytochemicals (Aune et al., 2016; Giacco et al., 2010). The  antioxidant properties of semolina derive mainly from phenolic compounds (phenolic acids, flavonoids) that protect cells from oxidative stress and chronic inflammation (Melini et al., 2020).

Industrial applications: the art of pasta and baking

The  durum wheat semolina is mainly used in thedry pasta industry (95% of industrial uses), where its rheological properties are irreplaceable to guarantee the quality of the finished product. During mixing with water (semolina/water ratio) providing the dough with plasticity, extensibility and mechanical strength necessary for subsequent extrusion.

Theextrusion through dies (traditional bronze or Teflon for smooth surfaces) shapes the pasta, while the  drying (temperatures 50-90°C for 6-24 hours, depending on the shapes) causes complete gelatinization of starch and stabilization of the protein structure, ensuring shelf life and cooking resistance. Italian pasta must be produced exclusively with durum wheat semolina and its quality is characterized by the absence of stickiness, elasticity after cooking, resistance to overcooking, and reduced starch loss in boiling water.

Other applications of semolina include  bread making (bread, focaccia, breadsticks), where the coarse granularity provides greater crumbly texture and shelf life compared to soft wheat flours, the  traditional pastry (cakes, regional dry cookies), and the use domestic for homemade fresh pasta, Roman-style gnocchi, and breading for crispy fried foods.

The  re-milled semolina (obtained from a second milling of coarse semolina) has a grain size intermediate between semolina and flour, making it particularly suitable for the production of egg pasta and regional breads with compact crumb.

Biodiversity and territory: from modern varieties to ancient grains

Durum wheat semolina is deeply rooted in  Italian gastronomic tradition, particularly in the southern regions where the Mediterranean climate favors the cultivation of high-protein varieties. Historically, semolina is the main ingredient of  traditional dry pasta – from Apulian orecchiette to Sicilian busiate, from Lucanian cavatelli to Ligurian trofie – but also of numerous regional preparations such as Bari focaccia, traditional breads and sweets.

In Sardinia, the  'Semula de grano sardo' is used to produce the characteristic 'pane carasau', while in Sicily re-milled semolina is the base of the traditional bread of Castelvetrano. In Apulia, whole semolina is key in preparing 'Altamura DOP bread', one of the few European breads protected by Geographical Indication. Also in Central Italy, particularly in Marche and Abruzzo, durum wheat semolina is used in making fresh pastas like chitarra macaroni and vincisgrassi.

The  territorial link between semolina and regional cuisine is not only cultural but also technical: the climatic characteristics of the Southern Italy regions (high sunshine, temperature excursions, periods of controlled water stress) favor the accumulation of proteins and carotenoids in the kernels, giving Italian semolina distinctive organoleptic characteristics appreciated globally.

Conclusions

The excellence of Made in Italy durum wheat semolina lies in its ability to evolve without betraying the purity standard that distinguishes it. While protein content and carotenoid profile remain the pillars of technological quality, future challenges are based on climate resilience and full traceability. In this scenario, transparency guaranteed by supply chain contracts and the integrity of the milled products represent the best guarantee for the global consumer, confirming durum wheat as an indispensable asset of Mediterranean diet and of the national economy.

Dario Dongo

Bibliography

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