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Precious black truffle of Roccafluvione, excellence of Marche

The precious black truffle of Roccafluvione – a valuable hypogeous fungus of the species  Tuber melanosporum Vittadini – represents one of the most prestigious gastronomic excellences of the Marche territory. Below is an analysis of the product, its history, and the inseparable connection with the inland Piceno area.

The precious black truffle of Roccafluvione stands out for unique organoleptic characteristics, closely linked to the pedoclimatic peculiarities of the production area.

Morphological appearance

The truffle has a  typically rounded and almost spherical shapewith a size ranging from 20 to 130 grams. The peridium, the outer part of the fruiting body, is characterized by not very pronounced warts that may vary in prominence depending on the texture of the soil. A distinctive element is the  base of the peridium with reddish tonestypical of the species.

Gleba and aromatic profile

At maturity, the gleba appears  black-violet in color, marked by thin white veinsThis characteristic makes the precious black truffle of Roccafluvione unmistakable even compared to other related varieties of  T. melanosporum.

Respecting maturation standards ensures consistent and recognizable quality.

The product boasts a  aroma and a very intense taste, due to the characteristic sandy marl arenaceous soils of the production area. The optimal consistency and elasticity contribute to the particular appreciation of this truffle in haute cuisine.

Production area: the heart of the Piceno Apennines

The production area of the prized black truffle of Roccafluvione is essentially confined to the administrative territory of eight municipalities in the province of Ascoli Piceno, in the Marche region: Roccafluvione (production capital of the prized black truffle), Ascoli Piceno, Acquasanta Terme, Amandola, Comunanza, Montefalcone Appennino, Montefortino, Palmiano, Venarotta.

Roccafluvione, located in the center of the production area, can be considered the true capital of the prized black truffle. The area is characterized by superficial soils with outcropping rock, defined by the cadastre as ‘bushy pastures’, where the predominant vegetation consists of shrubs (broom, carpenter's broom, cistus) and woody plants dominated by the Downy Oak (Quercus pubescens).

Pedoclimatic peculiarities

I marly arenaceous soils of the area confer the truffle its distinctive organoleptic characteristics. The soil texture, the suitable pedoclimatic environment, and traditional cultivation techniques create the optimal conditions for the development of this precious hypogeous fungus. The hoeing of sandy soils promotes greater aeration and oxygenation, contributing to the typical rounded shape of the truffle.

Traditional production method

The production of the prized black truffle of Roccafluvione is traditionally divided into three main phases to ensure the maintenance of the product's qualitative characteristics.

Truffle plantation setup

The truffle plantation must have a regular planting spacing not exceeding 500 plants per hectare. The plantation is carried out between October and December or between February and April. The plants used, in pure or mixed plantations, belong to the following species:

  • roverella (Quercus pubescens);
  • carpino nero (Ostrya carpinifolia);
  • carpino bianco (Carpinus orientalis Mill.);
  • cerro (Quercus cerris);
  • leccio (Quercus ilex).

The vegetative material and truffle used for mycorrhization must be certified by an accredited body and have proven historical belonging to theAngellozzi ecotype coming from the production area, verifiable through DNA analysis.

Crop management

Agronomic techniques include:

  • hoeing throughout the entire vegetative period up to production;
  • formative pruning throughout the year until the start of production;
  • production pruning between November and February;
  • digging between December and March;
  • harvest according to the provisions of the current legislation of the Marche Region.

Aerial and root pruning allow for greater bud formation which finds easier growth on the marl soils characteristic of the area.

Post-harvest and packaging

The final phase includes fundamental operations to preserve the quality of the product:

  • brushing and washing;
  • calibration;
  • aesthetic-qualitative selection;
  • vacuum packaging within 24 hours of harvesting.

Packaging must take place within the production area to guarantee the origin and authenticity of the product. Truffles can also be marketed after quick freezing or freezing – whole, in pieces, or in crumbs – or sterilized.

History and tradition: the Angellozzi family

The truffle tradition of Roccafluvione roots back over a century of history. The Angellozzi family represents the historical reference point for all local producers, passing down consolidated technical skills through four generations of truffle hunters.

Giuseppe Angellozzi, born in 1928 and a lifelong resident of Roccafluvione, testifies that his grandfather and father already collected and sold truffles. The area’s vocation was so well known that the presence of prized black truffles was even considered ‘infesting’ due to their abundance and massive concentration in bushy pastures.

In the 1970s the precious black truffle began to finally acquire commercial importance and the right economic value. This led to the spread of knowledge that had until then remained secret, involving an ever-increasing number of families.

The inseparable bond with the territory

The prized black truffle of Roccafluvione represents the perfect expression of the bond between product, territory, and human skills. The qualitative characteristics of the truffle can only be achieved through the combination of:

  • environmental factors. Texture of marly sandy soil, suitable pedoclimatic environment, presence of bushy pastures with specific vegetation;
  • biological factors. Use of the Angellozzi ecotype, symbiosis with typical tree plants of the area;
  • human factors. Consolidated technical skills of local producers, traditional cultivation techniques handed down through generations.

The presence of grazing in the past did not favor the development of the fungus, but human activity aimed at obtaining branches for animal feed allowed for the persistence of productive conditions, creating a unique balance between anthropic intervention and natural environment.

Gastronomic use and preservation

The prized black truffle of Roccafluvione can be marketed in various forms:

  • fresh truffle (vacuum packed within 24 hours of harvest);
  • preserved truffle (frozen or deep-frozen whole, in pieces or crumbs);
  • sterilized truffle (with added water and salt).

The aromatic and gustatory intensity of the prized black truffle of Roccafluvione makes it a preferred ingredient for haute cuisine preparations, capable of enhancing dishes of the Marche and Italian tradition.

Conclusions

The prized black truffle of Roccafluvione represents a gastronomic and cultural heritage of Piceno and the Marche region, the result of a dedicated territory, a unique ecotype, and skills consolidated through generations.

The safeguarding of traditional techniques, combined with innovation in crop management and strict compliance with production regulations, ensures the continuity of this Italian excellence in the international high-end product market.

Dario Dongo

Credit cover: Angellozzi tartuficoltura

DARIO DONGO
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Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.

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