Precious black truffle, the king of black truffles

Italian truffle, history and tradition

The truffle has deep roots in Western culinary history. The  ancient Romans were passionate consumers of truffles, considering them foods rich in beneficial properties and a symbol of luxury. Pliny the Elder, in the  Naturalis Historia, describes Libyan truffles as the greatest miracle of nature. Apicius, famous cook of Emperor Trajan, dedicates several recipes to truffles in his  De re culinaria. The emperor  Nero defined the truffle as ‘food of the gods’. An Apicius recipe advises slicing the truffles and seasoning them with coriander, lovage, rue, sauce, oil, and pepper.

In the  Middle Ages, the truffle shared with the white truffle an aura of mystery. It was appreciated in the tables of nobles and high prelates, considered a sort of ‘quintessence’ with an ecstatic effect on the human being. From the Renaissance all’Nineteenth Century, the popularity of truffle as a luxury ingredient grew throughout Europe, celebrated also by great cultural personalities such as the Italian musicians Gioacchino Rossini, who called it ‘the Mozart of mushrooms’, and Giuseppe Verdi. With the Twentieth Century, the truffle became widespread in bourgeois cuisine, and still today it represents a preferred ingredient in high-level gastronomy, appreciated by Michelin-star chefs all over the world.

The December 16, 2021, the search and harvesting of truffles in Italy was officially entered into the list of  UNESCO intangible and oral heritage of humanity, a recognition that celebrates the centuries-old tradition and skills passed down from generation to generation.

Precious black truffle, botanical classification and characteristics

The scientific name  Tuber melanosporum derives from the Greek ‘mélanos’ (black) and ‘sporà’ (spore), referring to the black color of the spores that characterize this species. The name was given by the Italian mycologist Carlo Vittadini in 1831, considered one of the founding fathers of modern mycology.

External appearance

The carpophore (the fruiting body) of the  Tuber melanosporum has a predominantly  globose or rounded, sometimes irregular and lobed when growing in soils with abundant skeleton. Sizes vary, with diameters between 2 and 12 centimeters, and the size can reach that of a large potato, with specimens exceeding 200-300 grams in weight.

The peridium (the external part of the truffle) is black or black-rust colored, characterized by a warty surface with pyramidal warts of intermediate size, between 3 and 5 millimeters. These warts have a depressed or hollow apex and are longitudinally grooved, strongly adhering to the gleba. In immature specimens, the peridium can tend towards wine-red. When wet, the peridium visually resembles a dog's snout, a characteristic often mentioned by expert hunters.

Gleba

The Gleba (the edible internal part) constitutes the fundamental distinctive element of the precious black truffle. When mature, it appears black-brown tending towards violet or reddish, furrowed by whitish sterile veins, dense and slender, highly branched and with well-defined contours. These veins are accompanied by two translucent brown bands on the sides.

A peculiar and distinctive feature is the behavior of the veins when exposed to air: while in  Tuber melanosporum the veins slowly turn from white to reddish-brown due to oxidation, in similar species such as the summer truffle (Tuber aestivum) and the winter truffle (Tuber brumale) the veins always remain white. This difference represents a key element for species identification.

Aromatic profile

The prized black truffle is distinguished by a  particular, intense but not too sharp aromatic smell, very pleasant and persistent. The aromatic bouquet is complex and layered, with dominant earthy notes accompanied by hints of moss, damp undergrowth, cocoa, tobacco, and hazelnut aromas. Some descriptions also report reminiscences of licorice root and sweet notes.

The volatile compounds that contribute to the aroma include 2-methyl-1-butanol, isoamyl alcohol, 2-methylbutyraldehyde, and 3-methylbutyraldehyde, as well as traces of sulfur compounds. Among the latter, dimethyl sulfide is particularly important as it represents the molecule that attracts truffle dogs, pigs, and truffle flies to the fruiting bodies.

The flavor it is rich, earthy and slightly bitter, with a complexity that progressively develops on the palate. Unlike the white truffle, which loses its aromatic properties with heat, the prized black truffle tolerates and often enhances its qualities with brief cooking.

Recognition and distinction from similar species

The prized black truffle is morphologically very similar to other species, some of which have significantly lower commercial value:

• Chinese truffle (Tuber indicum). Very similar in appearance, it can be distinguished by smoother skin and dark red or dark brown color. To prevent and mitigate fraud risks, an RFLP (Restriction Fragment Length Polymorphism) genetic test has been developed;

• summer truffle or scorzone (Tuber aestivum). It differs from the prized black truffle by the gray-black gleba with white veins that always remain white, instead of turning reddish-brown;

• winter truffle (Tuber brumale). The gleba shows white veins that do not change color when exposed to air, unlike the  melanosporum.

The Tuber melanosporum is distinguished from the other aforementioned species by the following aspects:

• oxidation of the gleba veins (from white to reddish-brown),

• size and shape of the peridium warts;

• intensity and quality of the aroma;

• maturation period;

• genetic analyses, for definitive confirmation.

Production and cultivation in Italy

The prized black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) in Italy is mainly found in the central regions. Umbria (areas of Norcia and Spoleto) and Marche (in the Piceno hinterland) represent the most renowned historical production areas. Production extends to Tuscany, Lazio, Molise, and Abruzzo in the mountainous areas of the central Apennines. Other producing regions include Campania (Sannio Beneventano and Irpinia), Apulia (Monti della Daunia), Basilicata, Calabria and Sicily (mountains near Etna), where productions have only recently gained recognition. In Northern Italy, the Grana Valley in Piedmont, in particularMontemale di Cuneo represents a highly specialized area, while significant productions are also recorded in Lombardy, Veneto, Trentino, Liguria and Emilia-Romagna, the latter with plantations cultivated in the Po Valley.

The modern truffle cultivation in Italy originated in the last century with the first attempts of Pietro Fontana from Spoleto, but Mannozzi-Torini (1956) is credited with developing the production method for mycorrhized plants. Cultivated truffle orchards use certified plants according to D.M. 29/02/2004, with a maximum density of 500 plants per hectare, planted between October-December or February-April. The cultivation management includes hoeing throughout the vegetative period, digging between December and March, formative and production pruning, irrigation from June to August for the formation of primordia. Production begins 5-8 years after planting, with hazel anticipating at 4-6 years, while downy oak and hornbeam ensure greater longevity. On suitable soils with sufficient water supply, yields can exceed 50 kg/hectare.

Nutritional values

The prized black truffle has a balanced nutritional profile. According to CREA’s nutritional tables, 100 grams of fresh product provides:

• energy, 48 kcal;

• proteins, 8 grams;

• fats: 0.5 g;

• carbohydrates, 0.7 g;

• fiber, 8.4 g.

The proteins contained in the black truffle are of high biological quality, including all essential amino acids necessary for the human body.

Gastronomic uses

Culinary characteristics

Unlike the white truffle, which must be used exclusively raw because it loses its aromatic properties when heated, the  prized black truffle tolerates and often enhances its qualities with brief cooking. This versatility makes it suitable for a wider range of culinary preparations.

Preparation and preservation

Before use, the black truffle must be cleaned carefully. Gentle brushing with a soft brush to remove soil residues, quick washing under cold running water, immediate drying with kitchen paper.

The fresh truffle should be wrapped in kitchen paper, stored in an airtight glass or plastic container, kept refrigerated at 3-4 °C with daily replacement of the kitchen paper, and preferably consumed within 4-5 days.

The truffle Frozen or deep-frozen: it must be stored at -20/-22 °C to maintain organoleptic characteristics.

Traditional recipes and pairings

Traditional recipes and pairings with black truffle enhance simple preparations that highlight its aroma without overpowering it. Among the first courses, black truffle tagliatelle represent a great classic: fresh egg pasta with flavored butter and raw truffle flakes. Equally popular is black truffle risotto, creamy, creamed with parmesan and finished with grated truffle. Ravioli and tortelli, finally, can be enriched in the filling or finished with truffle slices.

The eggs are one of the most effective pairings: black truffle omelette, essential and fragrant, fully enhances its taste, as do fried eggs, completed with grated truffle flakes at the end of cooking.

Among the second courses, stands out the famous tournedos Rossini, with filet medallions enriched by truffle, and raw meat, particularly delicate tartare finished with truffle slices.

It is important the dosage be moderate, as the taste and aroma of black truffle can easily overpower other ingredients. The recommended amount is about 15 grams per serving.

To best enhance the flavor it is recommended to choose fresh, frozen or deep-frozen truffle, cut into thin slices or flakes and added directly on the dish before serving, or added in the last minutes of cooking.

Italian regulations

The cultivation and marketing of truffles in Italy are regulated by:

• Law 16 December 1985, no. 752 and subsequent amendments. Framework regulations on the collection, cultivation and trade of fresh or preserved truffles;

• Regional laws. Each region has adapted the regulations to its territorial needs.

For collection, it is mandatory to have the  truffle hunter license, issued by the Region after a specific training course.

Perspectives and sustainability

The cultivation of prized black truffle represents a sustainable economic opportunity for rural areas, capable of generating value throughout the entire supply chain. It allows the Economic enhancement of marginal lands, often unsuitable for other crops, contributes to the maintenance of biodiversity and plays an important role in preventing the abandonment of hilly and mountainous areas. Furthermore, it promotes the creation of qualified employment, linked to specific agronomic and mycological skills, and supports the development of ecotourism and gastronomic tourism, increasingly interested in high-quality products connected to the territory.

The prospects of the sector are aimed at improving mycorrhization techniques, ecotype selection, and refining agronomic practices, with the goal of increasing yield and production stability. This is accompanied by the development of quality certification systems, essential for ensuring transparency and traceability, and the protection of territorial denominations, a key element to safeguard the economic and cultural value of the prized black truffle.

Conclusions

The Italian black truffle (Tuber melanosporum Vittadini) represents a gastronomic, cultural and economic heritage of inestimable value. Its rarity, peculiar ecological needs, complex aroma and extraordinary organoleptic qualities make it one of the most prestigious products of world gastronomy.

The combination of centuries-old tradition, scientific innovation in cultivation, and growing appreciation in international markets ensures a promising future for this precious hypogeous fungus. The safeguarding of natural truffle grounds, respect for cultivation protocols, and protection of local biodiversity are fundamental elements to preserve this Italian excellence for future generations.

Dario Dongo

Credit cover: Angellozzi tartuficoltura 

• Bencivenga, M., Di Massimo, G., Donnini, D., & Baciarelli Falini, L. (2009). The cultivation of truffles in Italy. Plant Diversity, 31(S16), 21–28. https://www.integrativebiology.ac.cn/pd/EN/Y2009/V31/IS16/21?utm_source=chatgpt.com

• National Truffle Study Center (n.d.). Botanical description of truffle species. National Truffle Study Center (Alba, CN). https://www.tuber.it/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/descriz_botanica_specie_tartufo.pdf

• CREA – Council for Agricultural Research and Economics. (2019). Food composition tables. Black truffle (Tuber melanosporum). Rome: CREA. https://www.alimentinutrizione.it/tabelle-nutrizionali/006200

• Law 16 December 1985, no. 752 and subsequent amendments. Framework regulation on the collection, cultivation and trade of fresh or preserved truffles intended for consumption. Normattiva (consolidated text as of 25/05/1991). https://www.normattiva.it/uri-res/N2Ls?urn:nir:stato:legge:1985;752

• Vittadini C. (1831), Monographia Tuberacearum