Between Sicilian almonds and Californian almonds there is just... an ocean of differences. Pesticides, artificial irrigation and mycotoxins on the other side of the world, native crops and traditional processes in Magna Graecia.
The higher cost of dried fruit made in Sicily expresses a series of values that are good to know before making hasty choices. Brief notes to follow.
Dried fruit, consumption and production in Italy
Consumption of dried fruit in Italy have actually doubled in the last decade, reaching 3 kg/year per capita (Ismea 2018). The scientific community has finally managed to make consumers understand the health benefits associated with the intake of walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts and pistachios. Which in fact belong to the most ancient tradition, in the Mediterranean diet and in Asia Minor.
The surfaces cultivated with nuts have therefore increased in Italy. Hazelnut is the first crop, accounting for 46% of the surfaces cultivated with nuts in Italy (ISTAT 2016) but is problematic, in its recent intensification, due to the widespread use of agrotoxics which threatens ecosystems and the health of populations. The almond, which in turn represents 27% of the crops surveyed by ISTAT in 2016, is recording promising growth. A sign of hope, considering that Italy was the world's leading producer of almonds until the middle of the last century, before California overtook it.
Sicilian almonds vs Californian almonds, the differences
The differences between Sicilian almonds - such as the Avola almond (Syracuse) - and Californian almonds are linked to three factors. Yield, irrigation, poisons.
A. Surrender
The surrender it is the percentage ratio between the shell and the seed and varies significantly between cultivars traditional and modern ones. Which often derive from genetic selections aimed at increasing yield, even if at the expense of quality.
The Avola almond, for example, is kept in a very hard shell which represents 80% of the overall weight.
In the Californian almond, vice versa, the relationships are reversed. Where the seed represents 60-80%, and is wrapped in a soft shell.
B. Irrigation
Intensive production in California they rely on the use of enormous quantities of irrigation water, up to 4 liters for each seed which weighs about 1 gram.
Avola almonds they have instead adapted, over the centuries, to the hot and dry climate of Sicily. And they grow thanks to rainwater, except for rare emergency irrigation.
Intensive irrigation it has an impact on the formation of the shell - which is soft and permeable, with the following consequences (mycotoxins) - and on the organoleptic properties of the almonds themselves. It is therefore not surprising if 'watered down' almonds have lower contents of vitamin E, polyphenols, potassium, magnesium, calcium etc..
C. Poisons
The third and crucial The difference between Sicilian and Californian almonds concerns the different cultivation methods, which only partly derive from climatic conditions.
The immense almond groves in California they are systematically treated with enormous quantities of fungicides and neonicotinoids. Which every year causes the extermination of over 50 billion of the same bees that are sacrificed every year amidst poisons to encourage the pollination of almond trees.
The exact opposite It takes place in the almond groves of Avola, where Sicilian beekeepers bring their hives to shelter the bees from the harsh winter.
Mycotoxins
Forced irrigation of Californian almonds – along with the humid climate, mechanized harvesting and soft shell – have serious consequences on food safety. The permeability of the soft shell exposes Californian almonds to the risk of contamination by fungi and the development of aflatoxins, 'genotoxic and carcinogenic even at low doses', as the EU claimed in 2007 when it decided to block imports from the USA.
The European CommissionUnfortunately, however, it has sacrificed the interests of public health to those of international trade. To the point of deciding to raise the threshold of aflatoxins allowed in almonds from 4 to 10 micrograms per kg (μg/kg). 2.5 times as much, even though these are genotoxic and carcinogenic contaminants.
Proof of the serious risks of chemical safety of the foods in question, we note Spain's recent alert notification in the European rapid alert system (Rapid Alert System on Food and Feed, RASFF), on 11.19.20. In relation to a consignment of almonds, arriving from the USA, contaminated with aflatoxin B1 at levels 7 times higher than the permitted thresholds (57 μg/kg vs. 8 μg/kg).
The dark side of globalization
Globalization of markets has led (in the dried fruit category, as in the entire food sector) to the globalization of the exploitation of environmental and human resources. Abominations occur precisely in the first producing countries, as demonstrated by the recent scandals of the exploitation of minors in hazelnut groves in Türkiye and the genocide of bees among almond groves in California.
These 'globalized' foods they cost less because they are worth less, beyond appearance. They constitute a disgrace rather than a resource for ecosystems and populations. And consumers themselves are exposed to serious food safety risks. But who is willing to bet on their own health, as well as that of local agricultural communities and the planet itself?
Almonds made in Sicily, the power of conscious choice
The power of choice aware of purchasing authentic Sicilian almonds - perhaps even certified with a system of blockchain public according to the Noberasco school, given the recent alleged fraud on false Sicilian almonds under the Eurospin brand - therefore it has its reason. Even better if oriented towards organic products, as always. For the health of the country and the environment, as well as supporting the economy and employment in rural areas that deserve renewed splendor.
Dario Dongo and Corrado Bellia
Credit cover: Consorzio Mandorla d'Avola
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
He has gained numerous experiences in trade associations in the agricultural world, participating in the development of territorial development plans and in national and regional technical tables in the nuts sector.
He is currently director of the Avola Almond Consortium and of the Regional Association of the Sicilian nut supply chain.
