Taralli and scaldatelli: the crunchy pride of Southern Italy

The culinary pride of Southern Italy finds its crunchy expression in taralli and/or scaldatelli. Flour and water, olive oil and wine form a basic dough, to form rings then subjected to a double baking, in boiling water and in the oven, according to ancient tradition.

Protagonists of poor cuisine in the rural South of past centuries, these products recur in the symbolism of literature classical and contemporary. And finally emerge on the global market as an alternative Mediterranean to ultra-processed snacks.

A look at history: the humble origins of taralli

Theetymology of the word tarallo remains a subject of academic debate, with theories tracing its origin to Greek  daratos (type of bread) or to Latin  torrere (to toast). The  history of taralli and scaldatelli, after all, is deeply rooted in the regional cuisine of Southern Italy:

• archaeological evidence suggest ancient origins: charred taralli were found in the Sanctuary of Oria (Monte Papalucio, Apulia), in use  from the 6th to the 5th century BC, where they were used as votive offerings to the Greek goddesses Demeter and Persephone (Mediterranean Table, 2021);
• popular tradition places the origins of modern taralli at  15th century, during a period of famine that afflicted Puglia. The  legend tells of a mother who created a dough using the basic ingredients available in poor families – flour, extra virgin olive oil, salt and white wine – shaping the dough into small rings and baking them;
• i pilgrims (called ‘ziazì’, in the local dialect) have been traveling for centuries to Bari from Campania, Basilicata, Abruzzo and other southern regions to honor San Nicola during the celebrations in May and December. The Basilica of San Nicola officially records the presence of the ziazì since 1659, and since 1915 distributes to the faithful a symbolic bread tarallo (Barinedita, 2023).

Taralli and scaldatelli in Italian literature

In the  Italian literature, taralli serve as evocative symbols of the culture, tradition and identity of southern Italy.  Leonardo Sciascia refers to the distinctive taralli of his native Racalmuto in his literary works, particularly in  L’Occhio di capra, (1984), where a sweet variety – ‘the Tarallo of Racalmuto’ – expresses the cultural hallmark of the Sicilian breakfast.  Andrea Camilleri, in turn, refers to the tradition of sweet taralli and Sicilian cannoli in the iconic Inspector Montalbano series (Ubaldi, 2018).

Bengodi: The pleasures of autarky (2011) by Camillo Langone presents taralli within a broader catalog of Italian regional specialties, presenting them as symbols of cultural sovereignty in contemporary Italy. Through the concept of ‘joyful patriotism,’ the author interprets traditional regional products — taralli included — as tools of cultural self-determination. Their conscious consumption thus becomes a hedonistic act of resistance to global homogenization, and taste assumes a political-cultural value.

Traditional ingredients and processing

The traditional tarallo exemplifies the principle of  poor cuisine — transforming humble ingredients into something extraordinary. As documented by Il Cucchiaio d’Argento, Italy's most authoritative cookbook since 1950, the authentic recipe for tarallo requires only wheat flour, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, water, and salt (Il Cucchiaio d’Argento, 2020).

Basic ingredients

• Wheat flourTraditionally, taralli and scaldatelli were made with flours milled with low degrees of refinement, such as type 0, type 1, type 2, or healthy wholemeal flours, which progressively retain more bran and germ and reflect a more rustic and nutrient-rich tradition. After a few decades dominated by the widespread use of extensively milled flours such as  type 00, now there is a growing return to traditional baking practices and the nutritional value of less refined flours
• Extra virgin olive oilPreferably from cultivar local varieties, such as Coratina and Peranzana in Puglia, with the addition as needed of cheaper pomace oil
• White wineTypically a local dry variety, such as Bombino Bianco
• Water
• Salt
• Optional seasonings. Fennel (fennel seeds), black pepper,  chili pepper (hot chili pepper), or other regional spices, such as oregano and rosemary.

The traditional double baking method

The  distinctive texture of taralli and scaldatelli derives from their  double-cooking process which involves a brief boiling followed by baking. This method originally evolved out of practical necessity: when public ovens were commonly used, the initial boiling phase allowed housewives greater flexibility in managing their cooking schedules. As a result, products prepared this way became known as  scaldatelli, which literally means ‘reheated’.

Traditional production stages

1. Dough: the flour is formed into a well, into which oil, wine, water, and salt are incorporated to create a firm and elastic dough
2. Rest: the dough rests for 30 minutes to develop its structure
3. Shaping: small portions are rolled into cords about 10-15 cm long, then shaped into rings
4. First rest: the shaped taralli rest for 6 hours to develop the surface texture
5. Boiling: brief immersion in lightly salted boiling water until they float
6. Second rest: 6 hours of air drying on clean cloths
7. Final baking: baking in the oven at 200°C for 30-40 minutes until golden.

Regional variations and PAT recognitions

Taralli have received various recognitions as Traditional Agri-food Products (PAT) from the Italian Ministry of Agriculture. Among the 5,717 products registered as PAT by 2025, taralli appear in multiple regional variations: Campania leads with 11 different types, Puglia has 5, while Basilicata and Molise each contribute 1 (Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies, 2025).

Regional specialties

• Apulian taralli. Classic ring shape with optional fennel seeds
• Scaldatelli of Cerignola. Larger oval-shaped variants from the province of Foggia (Northern Apulia)
• Neapolitan lard and pepper taralli. Campanian version with lard and black pepper
• Lucanian figure-eight taralli. Distinctive shape from Basilicata, with rings twisted in the form of an 8
• Sweet taralli: sweet variations with sugar, often prepared for celebrations.

Sustainable production and modern practices

In recent years, some companies – mostly small businesses – have engaged in recovering the traditional production of taralli and scaldatelli by integrating the supply chain locally. Under the banner of regional traditions and agricultural biodiversity.

The use of  local raw materials, organic ingredients, Ancient grains has allowed adding value to originally humble products.

Italian and international consumers, after all, are increasingly attentive to ingredients and natural flavors in minimally processed foods (clean label), with distinctive sensory profiles.

Nutritional properties

Traditional taralli, made with simple plant-based ingredients, offer  nutritional profiles more balanced than many ultra-processed snacks. Although the energy value is significant, these products are characterized by a prevalence of monounsaturated fatty acids and complex carbohydrates.

According to nutritional databases, a typical serving of traditional taralli (per 100g) provides on average:

• energy: about 1917 kJ (457 kcal)
• fats: about 18.9g (with saturated fats typically low at 2.2g)
• carbohydrates: about 60g (with minimal sugar content at 1.7g)
• proteins: about 9.6g
• fiber: about 4g
• Salt: about 2.4g.

The use of  Extra virgin olive oil contributes with  monounsaturated fats benefits, while versions with flours from  whole wheat or semi-whole (type 2) increase the content of  fiber.

Versatility of use

Theappeal of taralli extends well beyond the simple snack, as noted in La Cucina Italiana, one of Italy's main culinary publications. Their versatility makes them suitable for various culinary contexts:

• aperitif. In Italian culture, taralli and scaldatelli are indispensable for aperitif time, pairing magnificently with regional wines,  crudités of vegetables, local cheeses (from spicy Pecorino to creamy Provolone), and cured meats;
• breakfast. In areas like Manfredonia and Gargano, larger ring-shaped scaldatelli are also a breakfast staple, reflecting a long-standing tradition of warming the dough to prolong freshness and manage baking schedules;
• creative culinary uses. Crushed taralli and scaldatelli serve as excellent substitutes for breadcrumbs in coatings for fish or poultry, while whole taralli can replace croutons in soups or add crunchy accents to salads;
• traditional pairing. In some regions, taralli are traditionally soaked in wine, a practice that recalls their historical role as a simple yet substantial food, a symbol of conviviality. From this also comes the popular expression ‘tarallucci e vino’, linked to the idea of a friendly and tension-free closure.

Finding authentic taralli: a buying guide

For demanding buyers seeking authentic taralli and scaldatelli, several criteria ensure quality and authenticity:

• verification of origin. Products that explicitly declare origin from traditional regions (e.g. Apulia, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Abruzzo, Molise, Sicily) often indicate adherence to regional specialties and traditional methods;
• ingredient integrity. The taralli  premium should contain simple and natural ingredients — wheat flour (preferably organic and whole, or semi-whole), extra virgin olive oil, water, and salt. Avoid products with additives, artificial flavorings, low-quality fats (e.g. palm oil, hydrogenated fats);
• expert guide. Organizations like GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) provide useful support to international buyers, offering comprehensive knowledge of the Italian agri-food sector to identify reliable suppliers adhering to the highest standards of quality, authenticity, and sustainability;
• organic certification. For buyers committed to sustainable sourcing, look for official organic certifications from recognized bodies, ensuring that ingredients meet strict organic standards.

Conclusions

Taralli and scaldatelli express the vibrant  culinary heritage of Southern Italy and the transformative power of simple ingredients. The texture crispy, the versatile applications and increasingly sustainable production methods make them a compelling addition to any international pantry or professional gastronomic offering.

Understanding their deep historical roots, appreciating their  natural ingredients, and making informed sourcing decisions can allow consumers and professional buyers to experience the  authentic taste of Southern Italy. One crispy tarallo – or scaldatello – at a time, in moderation, as part of a varied and balanced Mediterranean diet.

Dario Dongo

Cover photo: Courtesy of GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade), photo by Dario Dongo 

References

• Barinedita. (2023, September 1). History, rites and traditions of the “ziazì”: the pilgrims who have been coming to Bari for centuries for Saint Nicholas. https://www.barinedita.it/bari-report-notizie/n4765-history-rites-and-traditions-of-the-ziazi-the-pilgrims-who-have-been-coming-to-bari-for-centuries-for-san-nicola
• The Silver Spoon. (2020).  The Silver Spoon (11th ed.). Editoriale Domus, Rozzano, MI. ISBN-13: 978-8833331676
• Langone, Camillo. (2011).  Bengodi. Marsilio Editore, Venice. ISBN: 9788829712171
• Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies. (2025. 11 March).  National list of traditional agri-food products. 25th Edition.  https://tinyurl.com/46ewkxa7
• Schachter, Margo (2021, 25 August). Artisanal taralli, a cultural gesture. The Italian Cuisine.  https://www.lacucinaitaliana.it/storie/piatti-tipici/taralli-artigianali-migliori-tarallificio/
• Sciascia, Leonardo. (1984).  L’Occhio di capra. Einaudi, Milan. ISBN-13: 978-8806057756
• Toia, Paola (2020, 17 May).  Homemade taralli, traditional and more. The Italian Cuisine.  https://www.lacucinaitaliana.it/tutorial/i-consigli/come-fare-taralli-in-casa/
• Ubaldi, Giulia. (2018, September 11).  The sweet tarallo of Racalmuto: history and characteristics. The Food Journal.  https://www.ilgiornaledelcibo.it/tarallo-dolce-di-racalmuto-storia/