Raw materials of quality in Catering. This is the first point of our analysis, from which a first tasting is shared. Roman holidays.
Rome Capital. Tourism, residents, public establishments
The tourist demand in the hotel and complementary accommodation facilities of the Metropolitan City of Rome Capital recorded in 2017 18,028,393 arrivals (+3.11%) and 42,230,518 total presences (+2.65%). (1) The registered population, as of 31.12.17, was recorded at 2,872,000 people, 1,368,299 families (Istat data).
Over 22 thousand public establishments – 7% of the total in Italy, 340 thousand – are registered in the territory of Rome Capital. Catering activities with serving (38.2%), bars and other similar establishments without kitchen (38.3%), catering without serving (12.4%), ice cream parlors and pastry shops (4.1%), street catering and ice cream vendors (0.2%), prepared meal supply (1.6%), canteens (3.0%). (2)
Roman holidays, a first tasting
The Roman holidays, first in Italy for tourism hospitality, are worth a first tasting. Years of research would not be enough to focus on such a complex scenario. However, a mention of suppliers is enough for a general idea of the criteria adopted by restaurateurs in the choice of raw materials.
The distribution companies dominate the market. Commercial promotions and logistical efficiency drive demand in the metropolitan chaos. A minority share, albeit not marginal, of restaurateurs aiming at quality refers instead to companies specialized in the production of quality raw materials and semi-finished products. It's just a pity that they cannot be distinguished at a glance or by App.
Some clues can be gathered by consulting the menus or websites of the restaurateurs most motivated to offer fine ingredients. And it is not the originality of the proposals that makes the difference, since the names and combinations can simply derive from imagination and creativity, regardless of the quality of the raw materials.
The origin rather is a good clue to follow, searching for places of refreshment attentive to the production chain. The reference to DOP, IGP, organic ingredients, as well as the clarification of the territorial origin of the protagonists of each course. Also the brands of prestigious products, when they themselves express a codified and shared quality. In the path traced by the roasters, who still help to choose the bar thanks to the brand of its coffee.
Feeding in Rome is already an Herculean effort in itself, without respite from dawn to night in all four seasons. But the ability to schedule orders in advance relying on excellent producers is the real decisive factor that customers appreciate and note, even on the infamous review and advice sites. The flour from wheat x coming from y, the vegetables z from farm k, the Italian meats W from animals raised and fed in this way. Culture and substance.
Roman holidays. I start again from three
Three quality experiences in Roman catering help to place the aulic principles in the space-time of here and now. Working on value chains and seasonality is not only possible but rewarding. Microphones on to activate the synapses.
• Angelo, manager of a pizzeria restaurant in central Rome with 200 covers per day, solid experience in distribution and catering, confirms the idea of the scenario in Rome and hints at his 'winning recipe'.
‘The distribution of products is a crucial issue, especially in a city like Rome where there are traffic problems and warehouse spaces are small. Those who handle distribution sell the convenience of calling in the evening after service and having the order delivered the next day.
We select the producers and supply ourselves directly from them.
For flours, I supply myself from a mill that uses only lightly refined Italian grains. I order sacks of flour by pallets, which arrive every fifteen days. I avoid ready-made flour mixes because it is the pizzaiolo's task to make a good dough.
For the meats, I chose a company that raises animals in semi-wild conditions, grows cereals to produce feed, and directly oversees slaughtering. To maintain high product quality and keep costs down, I buy the whole beast and have the trusted butcher cut the parts I need. All parts of the animal are of the highest quality and I can use them for steaks, meatballs, ragù, and hamburgers..’
• Leonardo, a high-ranking and long-standing chef, who took over and runs a popular tavern at the city gates, says
‘I try to keep prices low without sacrificing the quality of raw materials. To do this, I source directly from producers with whom I have established trust-based relationships.
The chef must know the product; he cannot just choose it from a catalog or he becomes a simple assembler. For example, regarding fish, I use only fresh, local, and caught fish, based on daily availability. It is important to communicate this value to the customer and overcome the habit of monotonous choices..’
• Eliana, who in a prestigious restaurant in the center of Rome realized her passion for cooking after a career in scientific research, explains
‘The techniques of managing and preserving raw materials are essential in the kitchen. It is a chef's duty to know their history and know how to work with them.
Among quality products, vegetables are the most difficult to obtain, because they perish quickly and are subject to climatic conditions.
For this reason, I shop directly at the market where I know the individual producers and can choose the best products according to the season.’
Excellence, in short, cannot be improvised.
Dario Dongo and Stefano Antonelli
Notes
(1) Data from the Lazio Tourism Bilateral Authority, 2017 annual report
(2) FIPE Rome Report, 2018
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
He has gained over ten years of experience in managing quality organic catering and restaurant supply chains. He manages institutional relations for various organizations, including non-profits.
