The restaurant industry is a sector where work is hectic, competition is fierce due to free licenses and web services, the engagement conditions innovated by coupon and home delivery services. We navigate in search of quality paradigms, possibly inspired by the values ofhomo sapiens sapiens instead of algorithms.
RistorAzione Capitale, focus raw materials and semi-finished products
The survey starts from Rome Capital, undisputed destination for travel and tourism as well as ‘melting pot’ of cultures and peoples, Italian and not. The initial objective is to try to understand the criteria adopted in mid-range restaurants for the selection and procurement of raw materials and semi-finished products.
Orders are often placed online, relying on the catalogs of distribution companies. They focus on the quality of delivery service and commercial offers that reflect the trend of the market. And in turn stimulate the insertion of new dishes that tend to recur, given a modest but not vast offer.
Making purchases, in more organized realities, are not the chefs or restaurant owners but employees with commercial skills, somewhat comparable to the buyer of the GDO (Large Organized Distribution). They, inevitably tied to numbers, tend to chase savings rather than recognizing the value that quality procurement can reflect on the business itself.
Quality catering relies instead directly on specialized producers. They provide extraordinary selections of raw materials and semi-finished products, in an almost individualized service logic aimed at chefs. A necessary choice when wanting to maintain multiple dishes on the menu, without having large teams of assistants or giving up the exclusivity of the dishes.
RistorAzione, certified supply chains and values
The origin of the products and the certifications of the DOP, IGP supply chains undoubtedly represent today a asset of ristorAzione in Italy. Considering both the large number of certified supply chains (there are now almost 300, unmatched in Italy) and their appreciation by customers. And thus, the easy 'valorization'.
Restaurateurs and chefs most motivated rely on specialist producers precisely because only they invest in the quality of the supply chain and are able to share its value, which can also be transmitted to the final consumer.
One cannot limit oneself to repeating the messages of sterile technical datasheets, in short, if one wants to propose the value of raw materials to support quality in modern ristorAzione. Instead, what is needed is the narration of territories, microclimates, and efforts behind the characteristic ingredient.
The narration, after all, can no longer be based solely on the words of the host but must instead leave a trace. On menus and perhaps also with more modern tools, without inhibition towards smartphones where everyone now consults everything, for the profile of the reality around it.
The origin of the meats is then one of the most serious information gaps. We can boast excellent livestock farming and yet, in catering, the practice of lowering standards continues. Until this information becomes mandatory, as it has already in France since 2002, and which we ourselves request, alongside the Consorzio Italia Zootecnica.
RistorAzione, the ‘veg’ awaiting organic
Vegetarian and vegan are now indispensable on menus. Understandably, faced with a growing ‘herbivorous’ attitude, albeit not exclusive, of Italian and international consumers. Not only ‘veg’ but ‘flexitarian’, as it is said in jargon.
The choice to alternate vegetable protein sources with those of animal origin is associated with the search for relatively new products, in composition and format. Popular and macrobiotic traditions, from pasta and chickpeas to seitan slices, thus give way to the ‘burger’ vegetables and other marked novelties ‘veg'.
Organic instead – despite continuous double-digit sales growth – it still struggles to emerge on menus. A real pity, an unexpressed opportunity, considering that:
-the consumers are increasingly sensitive to the dangers linked to pesticides, as the ‘glyphosate case’ teaches. As well as to animal welfare, which organic guarantees,
-the organic supply chain better than any other contributes to the protection of natural habitats and biodiversity, our true treasures. And if ‘garden vegetables have a different taste’ it is largely due to respect for its nature, not harmed by agrochemicals.
‘Gluten free’, with caution
The market for ‘Gluten free’ products in turn is experiencing exponential growth.
10% of the population in Europe follows a gluten-free diet, although celiac disease and allergies to various cereals it contains affect on average only 1% of individuals.
The ‘gluten free’ phenomenon should not therefore be attributed to an increase in celiac disease diagnoses, but rather to the spread of a reckless fashion, stirred by misinformation of those who speculate on it. A fashion furthermore dangerous for those not forced by health needs.
Declaring ‘gluten free’ however entails a precise responsibility on the part of the restaurateur. Who must be actually able to guarantee that the food presented as such is completely free from contamination. (1)
Hygiene and safety, information on allergens and frozen foods, animal welfare
Hygiene and safety are at the core of restaurateurs’ responsibilities. We have already offered the ABC, highlighting on several occasions how crucial it is to provide written and detailed information on each allergen present in each dish. (2) The written information, among other things, is also mandatory on defrosted products.
The administrative penalties for lack of written information on allergens can reach €24,000, unless the act constitutes a crime. The crime often also occurs in cases of defrosted foods presented as fresh (the famous 'Cannavacciuolo case') or 'blast chilled'.
Animal welfare, finally, concerns restaurateurs when it comes to storing live shellfish. Alive in the pan is fine, but not in the fridge.
On RistorAzione, in short, we will have some news and reflections to share.
Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) NB: gluten-sensitive consumers who ingest even minimal amounts due to cross-contamination may suffer serious, even fatal adverse reactions. In such avoided cases, the owner of the public establishment may be held liable for the crimes of injury or homicide, negligently or even intentionally
(2) See in this regard the circular Min. Sal. 6.2.15 and the European Commission Guidelines
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
