The ‘free from’, that is products boasting the absence of certain ingredients or substances, continue double-digit growth. The convergence of data from market surveys (Observatory I imagine) and opinion polls (Eurispes) leads to a few brief reflections on these trends of consumption.
‘Palm oil free’ e ‘GMO free’, an ethical issue
‘Without palm oil’ and ‘GMO free’, as seen, are the guarantees most requested by consumers in Europe. They step aside, refusing to contribute in any way with their purchasing choices to:
– globalization of exploitation (land grabbing, deforestation, slavery) of which palm oil is emblematic,
– global monopoly on seeds and pesticides, well expressed by the GMO phenomenon and ‘new GMOs’ (NBT). (1)
European consumers thus express an ethically driven determination – which finds in us the first supporters – towards a structural change in the agri-food chain. We are finally beginning to realize that we are the true masters of the market.
All of us, the community of consumers, can impose substantial changes in supply, in an ethical direction, thanks to our daily purchasing choices. Exerting pressure from below which is ’invincible, though underestimated, and is embodied in Leonardo Becchetti's brilliant motto #IvoteWithMyWallet.
‘Gluten free’ and ‘lactose free’, health expectations and illusions
I claim ‘gluten free’ and ‘Without lactose’ follow closely the ‘palm oil free’ and ‘GMO free’, in the European ranking of ‘free from'. And they continue to drive sales in Italy, beyond all reasonable expectations and logical meaning. Also in 2018, as in 2017A turnover of 3.3 billion euros – 13.6% of the total sales of prepackaged food in the mass market – between June 2017 and June 2018.
The Immagino Observatory (GS1-Nielsen) reports that ‘Overall, food products aimed at people intolerant to lactose or gluten (excluding water and alcoholic beverages) have nearly reached the ceiling of 8,000 products, thanks to 1,946 new products whose packaging featured claims regarding the absence of gluten or lactose. Thus today, 13% of the almost 61,000 products available in the Osservatorio Immagino explicitly target those who suffer from diagnosed or presumed food intolerances, as well as those who, although not having confirmed intolerances, decide to follow this regimen.food’.
The Eurispes Italy 2019 report in turn reports a real 'boom of special products,' even among those who do not suffer from intolerances. And this is exactly where the problem lies, where 'one Italian out of five (19.3%) buys gluten-free products, however, only 6.4% has been diagnosed with an intolerance, while 12.9% consumes them without being intolerant’.
The survey confirms the data emerged from the market investigation, adding a worrying clue that also deserves consideration by the Ministry of Health.
96% of the so-called 'diagnosed intolerants' are made up of 'imaginary patients' and/or victims of 'gurus' who unlawfully practice medicine. In fact, 6.4% of those surveyed by Eurispes declare to have received diagnoses of intolerance, but scientifically confirmed celiac disease diagnoses by health authorities currently concern only 0.34% of the population in Italy. (2)
The 'lactose-free' phenomenon seems to follow the trail of 'gluten free,' given that over one consumer in 4 (26% of those surveyed by Eurispes) declares to buy 'lactose free’ foods but only 8.5% claim to have received an intolerance diagnosis. And of these, how many will be 'imaginary patients' and how many have undergone reliable medical tests?
Gluten-free, celiac disease vs. 'Viral Deception’
AIC, the Italian Association for Celiac Disease, has been working to protect celiacs in Italy for decades. Also dedicating huge resources to public information and education, in agreement with the Ministry of Health. With the aim of clarifying that:
– 'after the certified diagnosis, the only therapeutic prescription for celiac disease is a strictly gluten-free diet'. The National Health System (NHS) provides a free monthly contribution for the purchase of gluten-free foods registered in the appropriate register of the Ministry of Health as they are specifically formulated for celiac patients, (3)
– the gluten-free diet is not a fashion, and has no meaning for those who have not received a medical diagnosis of intolerance to this protein, or allergies to the specific cereals containing it.
Nevertheless, sales of foods presented as ‘gluten free’ have increased by 2.6%. Meanwhile, those of products certified with the AIC mark, the ‘crossed ear of wheat’, recorded a decrease (-1.5%), attributed to the decline in demand for some categories of products (e.g. functional yogurts, homogenates). As well as the competition from other certification schemes, of similar content, carried out by various certification bodies that operators already turn to for other needs (e.g.: ISO 9001, ISO 22000).
1 Italian out of 5 anyway regularly buys gluten-free products, spending more money for foods that do not present any advantage – neither qualitative nor nutritional – compared to traditional foods. All thanks to the ‘Viral Deception’ By Big Food, which led the consumer world to believe that ‘gluten free’ is good for health. False! (4)
Without yeast, salt and added sugars. New trends growing
The extraordinary performance of free from then reveals new rising stars on the Italian market:
– yeast-free. 18.6% of Italian consumers buy yeast-free baked goods (although only 4.6% claim to have a recognized intolerance),
– salt-free,
Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) It is recalled how the Europalmamentari serving Ferrero and Big Food (among whom a candidate governor for the Piedmont Region, Alberto Cirio) had clumsily tried to impose the ban on claims ‘palm oil free’ and ‘GMO free’.
(2) Celiac disease affects about 1% of the population. The Ministry of Health, in the annual report on celiac disease presented to Parliament in January 2019, reports 206,561 diagnoses of celiac disease in Italy (145,759 females and 60,802 males), equal to 0.34% of the resident population
(3) In 2017, with the revision of the LEAs (Essential Levels of Care) celiac disease was included among disabling chronic diseases. In 2017 the National Health System allocated about 250 million euros for the provision of gluten-free products to celiacs (€1200 per year per patient). However, the free distribution of gluten-free foods is very different from region to region and this heterogeneity, explains the Ministry of Health, ‘in addition to creating unequal treatment for celiac patients, it effectively prevents free competition which would instead allow a physiological reduction in prices’
(4) Harvard University documented, in a 2017 study, the prevalence of type 2 diabetes in subjects following a gluten-free diet. The University of Copenhagen has in turn shown – in 6 years of clinical studies – the alteration of the gut microbiome and its functional capacity, associated with the diet ‘low gluten’

Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.


