Italian salami: history, rules, PDO and PGI

From the Roman ‘salumen’ to Norcineria: a brief history of salami

The origins of salami are lost in the history of Mediterranean food. In ancient Rome the term  salumen designated any food preserved with salt, an essential practice before the advent of refrigeration. The first evidence of cured sausages made from minced pork dates back to the, when domestic pig slaughter became a collective ritual of Italian rural communities, celebrated in the winter months between November and January., when the domestic pig slaughter became a collective ritual of Italian rural communities, celebrated in the winter months between November and January.

The figure of the  norcino — itinerant artisan specialized in pork processing, originating from the Umbrian city of Norcia — played a fundamental role in spreading and perfecting production techniques. Between the 15th and 16th centuries, norcini formed recognized guilds in major Italian cities, contributing to the codification of regional recipes that became the basis of specialties protected today by Geographical Indications.

Each territory developed its own variants: different proportions of fat and lean, coarser or finer grain, seasoning with pepper, garlic, fennel or chili, ripening in natural cellars or caves. This  gastronomic biodiversity is the direct legacy of centuries of artisanal knowledge and adaptation to local resources — pig breeds, microclimate, environmental microbial flora.

Fermentation and ripening technology

The quality and safety of the salami largely depend on the technological process of  fermentation and maturation. The production is divided into the main phases outlined below:

• preparation of the mixture. Pork meats are ground and mixed with salt, spices and sometimes small amounts of sugars added to support fermentation. In some productions, selected starter cultures of lactic acid bacteria are used, capable of directing the fermentation towards desired aromatic profiles and ensuring greater microbiological safety (Dongo, 2023);

• fermentation. During fermentation the lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus, Pediococcus and others) convert sugars into lactic acid, causing a pH drop, aroma development, and improved microbiological safety. Coagulase-negative staphylococci (CNS), such as Staphylococcus xylosus, S. carnosus, concurrently contribute to color stabilization and initiation of lipolysis;

• drying. The product undergoes a drying period that reduces surface moisture and prepares the salami for maturation;

• maturation. Maturation takes place in controlled environments for temperature and humidity and can last from a few weeks to several months, depending on the size.

Proteolysis

During maturation the  muscle proteins are degraded by the action of endogenous endopeptidases (cathepsins B, D, H, L and calpains) and, subsequently, microbial proteases. This progressive degradation releases peptides of low molecular weight and  free amino acids, which contribute to the umami sensory notes (Dongo, 2025) and constitute precursors of aromatic aldehydes (Gallego et al., 2018; Toldrá et al., 2023). Proteolysis also affects the texture of the finished product: degradation of the main myofibrillar proteins — myosin, actin, α-actinin — modifies slice cohesion, giving the typical texture of matured salami (Zheng et al., 2024).

Lipolysis

The  Lipolysis is equally decisive for the sensory profile. Endogenous lipases and microbial lipases (especially of staphylococcal origin) hydrolyze triglycerides into free fatty acids, which are then oxidized to form a wide range of  volatile compounds — linear and branched chain aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, esters — responsible for characteristic aromatic notes of aged salami, including typical nuances of walnut, malt, and chocolate attributable to derivatives of the branched-chain amino acids leucine, isoleucine, and valine (Ferrocino et al., 2018; Woldemariam et al., 2024). However, an excess of lipolysis can cause rancidity and organoleptic defects: proper calibration of starter strains and aging parameters is therefore essential for quality control.

Italian salami: the legal requirements

The interministerial decree of August 8, 2025 — containing the ‘regulation of the production and sale of certain cured meat products‘ — establishes the requirements that a product Made in Italy must meet to be presented and marketed in Italy as ‘salami’. Details follow.

Definition

‘Subject to the provisions established by the production specifications for salamis recognized as Geographical Indications pursuant to Regulation (EU) 2024/1143, ‘salami‘ means the cured meat product, consisting of meats obtained from striated muscle mainly belonging to the carcass of pig with the addition of Salt, including iodized salt, potassium chloride, and sodium substitutes and possibly By meats from other species animals, minced and mixed with fat pig fat in varying proportions, and stuffed into casing natural or artificial‘.

‘The definition of salami does not prejudice the use of names referring to products of a different nature’ [e.g. chocolate salami, ed.], 'provided that they are not confused with the products governed by the decree'.

‘The salami is dried and aged under climatic conditions likely to cause, during a gradual reduction of humidity, the development of natural fermentative and enzymatic phenomena such as to cause changes that give the product its typical organoleptic characteristics and ensure preservation and safety under normal ambient temperature conditions'.

‘The product that contains mechanically separated meats cannot be marketed under the name ‘salami’ or similar terms’ (Ministerial Decree 8.8.25, article 17 – Definition).

Ingredients

‘In the preparation of salami, it is allowed to use wine, vinegar (including balsamic vinegar), brandy and other spirits, honey, truffle, cheese, nuts, pepper, garlic, spices and aromatic plants, sugar, dextrose, fructose, lactose, skimmed milk powder, milk proteins, microbial starter cultures for fermentation, flavors, permitted additives except for colorants’ (Ministerial Decree 8.8.25, article 18 – Ingredients).

Although the regulatory framework allows the use of nitrite-based preservative additives to ensure safety against Clostridium botulinum, the Italian industry is at the forefront of research into bacterial cultures and plant extracts (rich in polyphenols and natural antioxidants) capable of partially or totally replacing traditional preservatives (Dongo, 2023).

Production methodology

‘Muscle and fat fractions are ground and mixed with salt and other ingredients and stuffed into casings or wrappers.

The salami is then subjected to drying and aging, which ensure preservation and safety under normal ambient temperature conditions.

It is allowed to treat the surface of casings or wrappers with microbial cultures, cereal flours, starches, oils, and edible fats’ (Ministerial Decree 8.8.25, article 19 – Production methodology).

Characteristics

‘The salami shows a mesophilic microbial load greater than 1 x 10 to the seventh colony-forming units per gram with a prevalence of lactobacilli and cocci.

In the market the salami has a pH greater than or equal to 4.9An essential parameter, it is stressed, for the stability of the product at room temperature (Ministerial Decree 8.8.25, article 20 – Characteristics).

Presentation

‘It is permitted to market the salami loose or packaged under vacuum or in a protective atmosphere, whole, in slices, sliced or otherwise portioned' (Ministerial Decree 8.8.25, article 21 – Presentation).

Nutritional properties of salami

Nutritional characteristics may vary depending on several factors, such as primarily the ratio between lean meat and fat, as well as the duration of aging. According to CREA, 100 grams of Milan salami — which leads in production and sales — provide:

• energy: 380 kcal;

• proteins: 25.4 g;

• fats: 31 g, of which saturated fatty acids 11 g; monounsaturated 15.4 g; polyunsaturated 3.3 g;

• carbohydrates: 1.1 g;

• salt: 3.9 g.

From the micronutrient standpoint, note the richness in potassium (657 mg per 100 g, equal to 32.9% of the Nutrient Reference Value set in Annex XIII to the Food Information Regulation (EU) No 1169/11 – and the presence of phosphorus (204 mg, equal to 29.1% of the NRV).

The relatively high content of saturated fats and salt suggests moderate consumption, within the framework of a balanced diet.

Italian DOP and IGP salamis

Italy has numerous cured meat specialties protected by  DOP and IGP, European tools that guarantee authenticity, quality, and connection with the territory of origin (Salumitalia, 2026).

Italian salamis with Geographical Indication

These denominations provide for  production regulations strict rules, which establish among other things: characteristics of raw materials, geographic production area, processing techniques, minimum aging times, quality controls throughout the supply chain.

Different salamis are also distinguished by the fermentation kinetics: salamis with fine grain (such as Milano or some types from Brianza) have a different oxidation surface compared to those with coarse grain (such as Varzi), directly influencing lipase activity and thus the final aromatic bouquet.

Geographical Indications – today protected in the European Union under Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 – represent a fundamental tool to protect the denominations and thus the authentic identity of traditional products linked to territories, as well as to combat fraud.

Regional salamis: a heritage of gastronomic biodiversity

Alongside DOP and IGP certified productions, there is a great variety of traditional regional salamis, often recognized as  traditional agri-food products (PAT).

Among the best known in North Italy: Milano salami, Mantuan salami, Bergamasque salami, Veronese salami, garlic-flavored Venetian salami, Friulian salami, Trentino salami. In the Center Italy: Roman corallina, Aquilan salami, Marchigiano salami, Tuscan salami, Umbrian salami. In the South and in the : Calabrian soppressata, Lucanian salami, Neapolitan salami, Sardinian salami, black Nebrodi pig salami.: Calabrian soppressata, Lucanian salami, Neapolitan salami, Sardinian salami, Nebrodi black pig salami.

This diversity reflects the cultural and agricultural richness of the Italian territories, the variety of  native pig breeds and local gastronomic traditions.

Animal welfare, sustainability and organic certification

In recent years, the Italian cured meat supply chain has been increasingly involved in the transition processes towards more sustainable production models. Three aspects are particularly relevant for the international market:

• The animal welfare, subject to mandatory rules and voluntary standards – including those contained in the specifications of the Geographical Indication supply chains – which regulate weaning and quality of feeding, farming conditions, health management and stress reduction in the various phases up to transport and the final stage;

• The  certification organic, a growing segment that involves pig farming in strict compliance with Regulation (EU) 2018/848 with specific requirements on animal space, their feeding with non-GMO organic feed, and limits on antibiotic use;

• The  reduction of environmental impact involves energy efficiency of plants, sustainable management of livestock waste, enhancement of co-products within a circular economy approach, packaging reduction, and use of sustainable packaging materials.

Gastronomic uses

Salami occupies a central role in Italian gastronomy: platters of cold cuts and appetizers, sandwiches and focaccias, pizzas and flatbreads, seasonings for first courses, ingredients for savory pies. The different types lend themselves to pairings with rustic bread, aged cheeses, pickles and structured red wines rather than sparkling ones (e.g. Lambrusco DOC).

Advice for buyers and importers

For gourmet consumers, the fundamental criteria to choose a quality salami include:  certified origin (PDO or PGI), ‘clean label’, proper curing, use of natural casing. Salamis with organic certification represent a particularly interesting choice for those who want products obtained respecting animal welfare and the environment.

For importers and international buyers, supplier selection should also consider food safety certifications, production capacity, and supply chain traceability, as well as regulatory compliance in destination markets.

The team of GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) offers support to international buyers in the search and selection of reliable Italian suppliers, facilitating access to high-quality productions, including regional specialties and organic cold cuts.

Conclusions

Italian salami is one of the most authentic and popular symbols of Made in Italy food. Its centuries-old history, extraordinary territorial variety, and numerous quality denominations testify to the richness of Italian food culture. Today the supply chain faces new challenges related to sustainability, animal welfare, the growing demand for organic products, and the 'clean label'—elements increasingly decisive for consumers and international markets. The enhancement of Geographical Indications andquality productions remains a fundamental strategy to strengthen the competitiveness of Made in Italy.

Dario Dongo

Credit cover: Institute for the Enhancement of Italian Cured Meats 

References

• ASSICA – Association of Meat and Cured Meat Industries. (2026).  PDO and PGI products of Italian cured meats. https://www.assica.it/i-prodottidop-e-igp/

• CREA – Council for agricultural research and agricultural economics analysis. (2025).  Italian cured meats: update of nutritional composition data. CREA Food and Nutrition. https://www.crea.gov.it/web/alimenti-e-nutrizione/-/valore-nutrizionale-dei-salumi-italiani

• Dongo, D. (2023, October 20). Natural preservatives at risk of legal barriers, short circuit in the EU. FT (Food Times). https://www.foodtimes.eu/it/pianeta/conservanti-naturali-a-rischio-di-barriere-legali-cortocircuito-in-ue/

• Dongo, D. (2025, June 24). Umami flavor as a lever for salt reduction. FT (Food Times). https://www.foodtimes.eu/it/consumatori-e-salute/sapore-umami-riduzione-sale/

• Ferrocino, I., Bellio, A., Giordano, M., Macori, G., Romano, A., Rantsiou, K., Decastelli, L., & Cocolin, L. (2018). Shotgun metagenomics and volatilome profile of the microbiota of fermented sausages.  Applied and Environmental Microbiology, 84(3), e02120-17. https://doi.org/10.1128/AEM.02120-17

• Gallego, M., Mora, L., Escudero, E., & Toldrá, F. (2018). Bioactive peptides and free amino acids profiles in different types of European dry-fermented sausages.  International Journal of Food Microbiology, 276, 71–78. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijfoodmicro.2018.04.009

• Ministry of Enterprises and Made in Italy. (2025, August 23). Decree August 8, 2025: Regulation of the production and sale of certain cured meat products.  Official Gazette General Series no. 195 of 08/23/2025. http://www.gazzettaufficiale.it/eli/id/2025/08/23/25A04704/SG

• Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 25 October 2011 on the provision of food information to consumers. Consolidated text: 01/04/2025 http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2011/1169/2025-04-01

• Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 April 2024 on geographical indications for wine, spirit drinks and agricultural products, as well as traditional specialities guaranteed and optional quality terms for agricultural products. http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2024/1143/oj

• Regulation (EU) 2018/848 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 May 2018 on organic production and labelling of organic products. Consolidated text: 25/03/2025 http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2018/848/2025-03-25

• Salumitalia. (2026).  Consortia for the protection of Italian DOP and IGP cured meats. https://salumitalia.it/

• Toldrá, F. (2017). Biochemistry of fermented meat. In B. K. Simpson, L. M. L. Nollet, F. Toldrá, S. Benjakul, G. Paliyath, & Y. H. Hui (Eds.),  Food biochemistry and food processing (2nd ed., pp. 331–343). Wiley-Blackwell.

• Toldrá, F., Gallego, M., Reig, M., Aristoy, M.-C., & Mora, L. (2023). Bioactive peptides in meat and meat products.  Meat and Muscle Biology, 7(3). https://doi.org/10.22175/mmb.16243

• Woldemariam, H. W., Wu, C., Li, C., Hu, Y., Ma, J., & Xu, B. (2024). Impact of lactic acid bacteria on the flavor profile of salami and role of microbial diversity and functional gene.  Journal of Food Biochemistry, 2024, 6073261. https://doi.org/10.1155/jfbc/6073261

• Zheng, S. S., Wang, C. Y., Hu, Y. Y., Yang, L., & Xu, B. C. (2024). Enhancement of fermented sausage quality driven by mixed starter cultures: Elucidating the perspective of flavor profile and microbial communities.  Food Research International, 178, 113951. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodres.2024.113951