On 2.6.22 Italy celebrated the 76th birthday of the Republic, but also the recognition of the Onano Lentil IGP, (1) all the better if from organic farming.
A tasty legume, cultivated for over five centuries in Alta Tuscia, in the province of Viterbo (Lazio, Central Italy). Excellent source of proteins, fibers and micronutrients, easy to prepare.
Onano Lentil IGP, the delight of Alta Tuscia
The Onano Lentil IGP has a large seed (6-7 mm) of flattened shape. Variable color, from dark lead to marbled green, rather than ash-pink. It is appreciated for the ease of cooking, which does not require prior soaking in water, the integrity of the lentil at the end of cooking and its digestibility (also attributed to the low tannin content).
The cultivation takes place in hilly areas (300-600 meters above sea level), on fertile soils with excellent permeability and free of waterlogging areas. The climate is mitigated by the proximity to Lake Bolsena, on the borders between Lazio and Tuscany. The volcanic origin of the soils, according to enthusiasts, enhances the flavor and savoriness of the Onano Lentil IGP.
Territory and tradition, over 500 years of history
The precious Onano Lentil IGP, from the homonymous village of Tuscia in Lazio, has been cultivated for over 500 years in the municipalities of Alto Viterbese. Its ancient tradition is recorded in a Statute from 1561 – taken from ‘Orders, statutes, municipal laws of the community and people of Onano’ – which punishes those caught damaging or stealing the precious lentils. Commercial documents from past centuries attest shipments and sales up to the papal court.
At the beginning of the twentieth century The local company Alfonsi Alfonso presented the Onano IGP lentil in various international exhibitions. In Rome and Buenos Aires in 1910, London and Paris in 1911, up to the III International Exhibition of Modern Progress in the French capital. A prestigious history that risked interruption in the Sixties of the last century, with the rise of nitrogen fertilizers and easier crops (e.g., potatoes).
Guardian farmers and agroecology. Organic is better
The credit for the revival of traditional crops – in the case of the Onano lentil in Lazio, as well as Sicilian ancient wheats (2) – always goes to the hardened guardian farmers. To them we owe the maintenance of the extraordinary biodiversity that historically also characterizes the Bel Paese.
Agroecology carried out by family micro-enterprises and small cooperatives in the territory, respecting ecosystems instead of using pesticides, herbicides, and other agrotoxics is the salvation for Tuscia – already threatened by intensive hazelnut groves – and for all of us. As demonstrated by ISPRA, precisely in Viterbo, measuring the environmental impact of organic farming compared to conventional farming.
Onano IGP lentil, a simple recipe
Preparing the Onano IGP lentil is very easy because its skin is very fine and the pulp is smooth, creamy, with aromas reminiscent of hay and wild herbs such as chamomile.
The recipe simplest requires a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil, preferably organic, perhaps from the local area. To be mixed with half a glass of water, for a delicate sauté that preserves its virtues.
Cooking and pairings
The delicate sauté can be prepared with garlic or onion, finely chopped celery and carrot, for a quick sauté over low heat followed by cooking the lentils, rinsed and drained, with aromatic herbs as desired (rosemary and chili pepper the most suitable).
The cooking, with the lid on, takes about half an hour. Other ingredients can be added during cooking if they require it (e.g., pasta, rice, barley, tomato, shrimp). Or paired at the end of cooking, to complement the Onano IGP lentil.
Dario Dongo
Cover image from Food and Soon
Notes
(1) Reg. EU 2022/897, registering a name in the register of protected designations of origin and protected geographical indications [«Lenticchia di Onano» (PGI)]. On Eur-Lex, https://bit.ly/3xH7Qpg
(2) Dario Dongo. Simenza, biodiversity and participatory development. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 2.2.19, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/progresso/simenza-biodiversità-e-sviluppo-partecipativo
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
