The exploration of rare Mediterranean citrus fruits leads us today to Savona, the city of chinotto. A symbol of bitter, almost spicy taste – made famous by the beverage of the same name, whose widespread counterfeiting remains unpunished – the Savona citrus fruit is finally beginning to revive. Thanks to cultural ferment and the initiative of institutions and peasant agriculture.
Chinotto of Savona, cultivar and production
The evergreen plant - generally tall just over one and a half meters, up to a maximum of three - belongs to the Rutaceae family, genus Citrus, species called Chinotto of Savona citrus aurantium, bitter Sun variant, sinensis variety. It has slow growth, on thornless trees with leaves resembling those of the mirror. It suffers from frost and produces fruit only every two years if not carefully tended. It develops a good quantity of white flowers and small fruit on few branches, harvested between September and November.
The small citrus fruits of bright green color, flattened at the ends, turn orange when ripe. The scent they release is intense and characteristic, a sign of exceptional shelf life allowing preservation for long periods. Naturalizing in the local ecosystem, the chinotto of Savona has developed distinctive genetics over time compared to other selections and ecotypes present in Italy and abroad (Citrus myrtifolia). Several studies and genetic tests coordinated by Cersaa show its peculiarities, notably the absence of seeds and the greater width of the leaves. (3)
The Ligurian Riviera of Ponente is the only cultivation area, from Varazze to Finale Ligure. At the Parodi farm, in Finale Ligure. In Savona, with 200 trees recently planted in San Pietro in Carpignano. Then in Quiliano, in Marmorassi. And in an ancient citrus orchard of the historic Besio company that has been working it for more than a century in Legino, among stone crosses and water wells.
History and productive traditions
Like most Like most citrus fruits, chinotto also has its origins in Asia. It was imported from China in the 16th century by a navigator from Savona who appreciated its properties. Like other citrus fruits, it also prevented scurvy, a disease typical of long sea voyages. Its juice was attributed digestive virtues, equally appreciated by sailors to mitigate the effects of savory foods.
The ‘cosmographic description climatic, river and agricultural of the Savona district in the year 1879’ by Abbot Alberto Cougnet – vice President of the Economic Society promoting Industry, Agriculture and Commerce of Savona – was read at the General Assembly of the Parliament of the Kingdom of Italy, on 14.12.1879. And even after the Great War, the Tortarolo farm, one of the largest in Savona and still run by the Minuto family, produced relatively significant quantities. (1) The crop was registered in the Italian agriculture yearbook, in 1931.
The ancient recipe It involved immersing chinotti in brine (seawater) for about three weeks. The citrus fruits were then hand-turned to remove the superficial layer of the peel and its more bitter aromas, and placed back in brine. Boiling in sweet syrups followed, with increasing concentration, to make liqueurs and candied fruits. Chinotto played a central role in family rites and ceremonies. It appeared in Altare’s (SV) traditional glass art services, as well as in the white-blue ceramics of Albissola (SV) manufacturers. AndThere was never missing, in cabinets and salon display cases, a special ‘chinotto set’. To be enjoyed under spirit, in the winter months. And as a dessert, an indispensable candied fruit in wooden boxes of Christmas delicacies. Finally, not missing from the specialties of local pastry shops.
The first industrial processes of transformation are due to the French entrepreneur Elizièré, who in the region Provence – Alpes – Cote d’Azur founded a jam and candied fruit company in 1780. His successor Silvestre Allemand then opened the first steam plant in Savona in 1877. The chinotto drink, carbonated and fresh, was invented in Italy and put into production from the 1930s-1950s thanks to the companies San Pellegrino, Neri and Recoaro. It spread and became popular until the ’70s, as an ideological, popular and Made in Italy alternative to Coca Cola. Only to then succumb to the invasion of the imperialist drink. Which still, as proof of what has been said, is distributed even in areas of the planet not reached by drinking water and medicines.
Chinotto, properties and uses
The chinotto is suitable for use in the production of food and dietary supplements, but also in cosmetics. In addition to the high vitamin C content, there are digestive and relaxing functions, which traditionally suggested its use to combat insomnia. In cosmetics, its antioxidant and decongestant virtues are appreciated.
The chinotto of Savona is distinguished from bitter orange by its richness in synephrine, a sympathomimetic amine also extracted from the immature fruit of citrus aurantium (bitter orange) and used for slimming purposes. Authorized by the Ministry of Health for the production of dietary supplements, precisely because of its dietary properties as well as its ability to improve intestinal motility and stimulate the sympathetic nervous system.
The establishment of the presidium Slow Food, in 2004, helped to refocus attention on this precious citrus fruit. With the shared goal of recovering its cultivation and culture. Lurisia, a historic company bottling mineral waters and producing soft drinks, registered its beverage among the products of 'The Chinotto in the Network’. A network of small businesses that transform the chinotto presidium Slow Food into jam, honey, mustards, tea, beers, liquors, sweets. As well as cosmetics and artisanal perfumery, thanks to the historic perfumer family Abaton.
The initiative 'Sea of Citrus’ also applies to 'The Chinotto in the Network' and the Municipality of Savona to enhance the recovery of traditions and promote green tourism as much as the protected agricultural supply chains. (3) Last act of 'Sea of Citrus' was the event 'Citrus', where among others Irma Beniamino of the National Academy of Agriculture and Pietro Piccarolo of the National Academy of Georgophiles attended.
In #ChinottodiSavona we trust!
Dario Dongo and Giulia Caddeo
Notes
(1) The receipts from 1927 show, between November 18 and December 9, the delivery of 83,700 regular chinottos, 75,800 small and 1,600 very small to the Chinotto Producers Society
(2) Center for agricultural experimentation and assistance, whose director is Giovanni Minuto, an agronomist expert in the protection of minor crops, whose agronomic vocation derives from the family tradition of cultivating chinotto plants in the aforementioned Tortarolo company
(3) On 'Sea of Citrus' see the previous article dedicated to the pompia of Sardinia
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
Graduate in law, master in Food, Law & Finance. She has deepened the theme of green procurement and urban food policies at the International Cooperation and Peace sector of the City of Turin.
