The PDO Gioia del Colle mozzarella is finally registered in the European register of Geographical Indications (GIs). (1) This completes the authenticity guarantee of a cheese that expresses tradition and sustainability, both in breeding and processing.
The specification of the PDO Gioia del Colle mozzarella stands out compared to others for its strictness on animal welfare, which significantly affects the quality of the milk and the sensory profile of the stretched-curd cheese. (2)
PDO Gioia del Colle Mozzarella, animal welfare and milk quality
The pasture of cows of Brown, Holstein, Red Pied, Jersey breeds and their crosses – in natural meadows of spontaneous herbs, or in mono- or polyphytic swards composed of leguminous species (clover, vetch, bitter vetch and pea protein) and cereals (oats, barley, durum wheat, soft wheat and ryegrass) – must take place for at least 150 days a year.
The feeding of the livestock must consist of 60% forage and 40% cereals (corn, barley, wheat, oats), legumes (soybean, broad beans, bitter vetch, pea protein), their flours and flakes. In smaller amounts, also carobs and by-products of cereal processing (e.g. bran and fine bran of soft wheat, bran of durum wheat). (3)
Raw milk, natural acidification
The mandatory use of raw milk, within 48 hours from milking, ensures the preservation in the PDO Gioia del Colle mozzarella of that heritage of health-promoting microorganisms that nourish the microbiota and contribute to the health of the immune system.
Natural acidification – by means of whey inoculation and patience, at 34-36 °C, for no less than two hours – is the only one allowed. Strictly forbidden is the use of rennet from outside the territory of origin, as well as resorting to 'chemical shortcuts' such as citric acid and lactic acid.
Territorial footprints
‘The aroma that derives from processing is added to that which comes from the milk: the fermentation one (secondary aroma) is characterized by fresh lactic notes, butter and acid whey, while the one due to the raw material (primary aroma) is characterized by delicate vegetal and animal scents (…) linked to the autochthony of the microbiota.’
‘To the specificities determined by breeding techniques and cheesemaking techniques must be added environmental influences and historical-cultural aspects. Of particular importance are the landscape (Natura 2000), the geological characteristics of the area (the Murgia Plateau, with the presence of Cretaceous limestone, outcropping rocks and reduced clays) and the climate’ (production regulation, article 6).
Gioia del Colle, the PDO mozzarella
The color of the 'fior di latte' depends on the season. Porcelain white in the winter months, when cows are fed hay, pale yellow in the grazing seasons thanks to the beta-carotene in fresh grasses. The scent expresses fresh lactic notes, with acidic touches like yogurt. The shape is spherical or braided, knot or small knot, bite-size.
The taste of artisanal PDO mozzarella is unmistakable, slightly acidic and fresh, as an effect of the metabolism of the natural yeasts contained in the whey starter used in production. Succulence, structure and aromatic persistence then mark the style of the dairy and the terroir of the pastures.
Campana buffalo vs Gioia del Colle, comparison of PDO mozzarella
The registration of the Gioia del Colle PDO mozzarella suffered delays due to obstacles posed by the Consorzio della mozzarella di bufala campana, as we had written at the time.
The two mozzarellas PDO share the original and authentic production method, from raw milk, with natural coagulation and hand molding of the curd. But the products are incomparable, already due to the different milk and territorial characteristics. Buffalo or cow, to each his own.
Dario Dongo and Michele Polignieri
Notes
(1) EU Reg. 2020/2018 concerning the registration of a name in the register of protected designations of origin and protected geographical indications [Mozzarella di Gioia del Colle (PDO)]
(2) Mozzarella di Gioia del Colle PDO, the specifications on https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/e%252F5%252F9%252FD.4d52b504ea18f5783667/P/BLOB%3AID%3D3340/E/pdf
(3) The share of the diet related to cereals and legumes must come for at least 60% from the production area defined by the specifications (articles 5 and 3)
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
Veterinary medical manager at the ASL of Bari, master's degree in Food Culture at the University of Rome Tor Vergata, member of the extra virgin olive oil panel at the Bari Chamber of Commerce and lively food critic.
. Si completa così la garanzia di autenticità di un cacio che esprime tradizione e sostenibilità, in allevamento come nella trasformazione.){kind=link}