Hammurabi and Norberto: Italian einkorn cultivars that revive the ancient grains

The einkorn wheat (Triticum monococcum), the oldest cultivated cereal in human history, is experiencing a notable renaissance in Italy thanks to the development of two unique cultivars: Hammurabi e NorbertoThese selections of ancient grains combine the rich historical heritage of ancient agriculture with the nutritional and agronomic needs of today's food systems.

Officially registered and protected in Italy and at the European level, these einkorn wheat varieties stand out for their protein profiles, the superior adaptability to organic farming and low input and the exceptional nutritional content.

Hammurabi and Norberto represent a traditional method selection of ancient grains suitable for agroecology and healthy diets, capable of offering exceptional performance in the production of premium quality pasta e lightly leavened baked goods such as focaccia and flatbreads. Their development represents a significant contribution to biodiversity conservation and a healthier, more sustainable food future.

Einkorn: the oldest of the ancient grains

Domesticated over 10,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent, einkorn wheat (Triticum monococcum) is considered the oldest cereal cultivated in human history. Although once a staple food, during the Bronze Age it was gradually replaced by polyploid grains with higher yields and greater adaptability.

The historical importance of einkorn wheat (or einkorn wheat) is highlighted by its discovery in the stomach contents of Ötzi, theman who came from the ice, dating back to 5,000 years ago, found in the Similaun glacier in South Tyrol (Pogna & Gazza, 2009).

In recent decades, the growing interest in ancient grains has renewed attention to einkorn wheat, particularly in the context of organic and low-input farming systems. Its ability to thrive in poor soils with minimal nutrient requirements makes it particularly suitable for the marginal areas of central and southern Italy, where it promotes asustainable agriculture and the conservation of biodiversity.

Agronomic characteristics

The einkorn wheat is known for its hardiness and resilience. It shows strong resistance to brown rust, powdery mildew and Fusarium head blight. Thanks to its intrinsic resistance to major fungal pathogens such as Fusarium spp., einkorn wheat is generally considered less susceptible to contamination by mycotoxins, particularly deoxynivalenol (DON), compared to modern wheat cultivars (Buerstmayr et al., 2003; Vaccino et al., 2010). The plant grows in height (about 120 cm), has a winter habit and follows a mid-late growth cycle. Although the plant is susceptible to lodging (falling), its thin and flexible stem allows rapid recovery (Gazza et al., 2014).

Due to its sensitivity to lodging, nitrogen fertilization should be limited to 50-80 kg/ha. One of the most notable characteristics of einkorn wheat is its high protein content, which consistently exceeds 16% dry matter, even under low input or organic farming conditions. The crop shows impressive adaptability to different growing environments, making it particularly suitable for agroecology. The optimal seeding density for einkorn wheat is 150 kg/ha and theirrigation is generally unnecessary. It can be sown until the beginning of spring. The spike is laterally compressed, distichous (two-ranked) and with a wing.

The grains are small, oblong and flat, enclosed by glumes. The weight of a thousand grains ranges from 25-30 g for Norberto and from 30-35 g for the hulless Hammurabi variety. The yield generally varies between 1.5-2.5 tons/ha of hulled grains. The grain texture is classified as extra-soft, with Softness Kernel Classification System (SKCS) index values consistently around zero (Gazza et al., 2014).

Cultivar specifications

Hammurabi

Hammurabi It was registered in the National Register of Plant Varieties (RNVV) in 2014. The Council for Agricultural Research and Economics – Institute of Food Engineering and Technologies (CREA-IT) of Rome, as the developer of the cultivar (breeders: Laura Gazza, Norberto Pogna, and Pierino Cacciatori), is responsible for maintaining the genetic purity of the variety.

Agroservice SpA, now Società Produttori Sementi (SPS) SpA, also holds the exclusive license for the multiplication and commercialization of this variety. The protection of the plant variety was granted by the CPVO on January 20, 2020 (certificate number 54191).

Hammurabi is distinguished by its hulless grains and the presence of 12 ω-gliadins in its protein profile. With its exceptionally high protein content (19-21% dry matter), Hammurabi is particularly suitable for pasta production, where its robust flavor and nutritional value make it an ideal choice for high-quality, nutrient-rich products (Vaccino et al., 2010).

Norberto

Norberto was officially registered in the National Register of Plant Varieties (RNVV) in 2017. Similar to Hammurabi, CREA-IT in Rome acts as the cultivar developer (breeder: Laura Gazza and Pierino Cacciatori) and is responsible for maintaining the genetic purity of the variety. Agroservice SpA (now SPS SpA) holds the exclusive license for multiplication and commercialization of the variety.

The plant variety protection application was submitted to the Community Plant Variety Office (CPVO) with application number 2018/1721.

Norberto is characterized by its ω-gliadin protein profile, which differentiates it from the Hammurabi cultivar. While its baking qualities are modest according to farinograph and alveograph parameters, Norberto excels in the production of lightly leavened baked goods such as breads, focaccias, breadsticks, and quality pasta, offering a unique flavor and texture highly appreciated in Mediterranean culinary traditions (Pogna et al., 2009).

Nutritional characteristics and use

Both Hammurabi and Norberto cultivars present exceptional nutritional profiles. Besides the high protein content, they contain about 2.5% fructans, about twice the level found in soft and durum wheat. They also have a particular content of zinc and iron. Moreover, these einkorn wheat varieties are particularly rich in carotenoids and demonstrate ahigh antioxidant capacity total (TAC).

Although the farinographic and alveographic parameters of these cultivars are relatively poor compared to modern bread wheats, they still allow a satisfactory baking quality, particularly for Norberto, which is suitable for the production of lightly leavened baked goods. Hammurabi, with its higher protein content, excels in the production of Pasta. Both cultivars have shown excellent potential for malting and fermentation in beverages such as Beer.

A particularly noteworthy characteristic of these einkorn wheat cultivars is the gluten composition. Despite the high protein content, they exhibit gluten index values low or even zero. This unique property contributes to the high digestibility of their gluten, as demonstrated by both in vitro and in vivo studies (Iacomino et al., 2016; Di Stasio et al., 2020; Picascia et al., 2020). Research has shown reduced or no toxicity for epithelial cells of celiac patients in vitro and Picascia et al. (2020) demonstrated that celiac patients showed a reduced adverse response when exposed to T. monococcum compared to hexaploid wheat.

These results position einkorn wheat as a cereal with an excellent nutritional profile that can be well tolerated by individuals with non-celiac gluten sensitivity. Combined with its natural resistance to diseases and stress, low fertilization requirements, and adaptability to various growing environments, einkorn wheat emerges as a cereal particularly suitable for agroecology and low environmental impact agriculture.

Conclusion

The Italian einkorn wheat cultivars Hammurabi and Norberto exemplify how ancient grains can be reimagined foragroecology and sustainable food systems. Their exceptional nutritional profiles, including high protein content, high levels of micronutrients and antioxidants, and favorable gluten composition, position them as a preferred choice for consumers seeking healthy and digestible alternatives to modern wheat.

Besides nutrition, their agronomic resilience, including resistance to key diseases and adaptability to marginal soils, makes them ideal fororganic and low-input farming in Mediterranean climates. Hammurabi excels in pasta production, while Norberto offers unique sensory and structural qualities for lightly leavened baked goods: both contribute to the diversification and quality of the ancient grain market.

As global interest in traditional cereals and agroecology grows, these einkorn wheat cultivars are a testament to the power ofinnovation rooted in tradition. Their success paves the way for broader adoption of ancient grains in artisanal and industrial food production, creating a bridge between past and future through flavor, nutrition, and environmental protection.

High-quality Hammurabi pasta supply with the GIFT experience

Our GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) expert group provides personalized support to international buyers seeking superior quality pasta made with 100% traceable Hammurabi einkorn wheat. From identifying reliable producers to ensuring supply chain transparency, GIFT connects international buyers directly with the excellence of the ancient Italian cereal heritage, guaranteed by official variety registration and rigorous quality control.

Dario Dongo

Cover credit: Food Times. Hammurabi cultivation at Ristorante b&b Lo Smeraldo, Località Castreccioni, 82, 62011. Cingoli MC. Photo Gianluca Calcabrini

References

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• Di Stasio, L., Picascia, S., Auricchio, R., Vitale, S., Gazza, L., Picariello, G., Gianfrani, C., & Mamone, G. (2020). Comparative analysis of in vitro digestibility and immunogenicity of 2 gliadin proteins from durum and einkorn wheat. Frontiers in Nutrition, 7, 56.  https://doi.org/10.3389/fnut.2020.00056
• Gazza, L., Cacciatori, P., Cammerata, A., & Pogna, N. (2014). The return to cultivation of einkorn wheat. Mills of Italy, 10, 46-50.
• Iacomino, G., Di Stasio, L., Fierro, O., Picariello, G., Venezia, A., Gazza, L., Ferranti, P., & Mamone, G. (2016). Protective effects of ID331 Triticum monococcum gliadin on in vitro models of the intestinal epithelium. Food Chemistry, 212, 537-542.  https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2016.06.014
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