Cudduruni, the stuffed focaccia from Siracusa

Origins and tradition

Born from the creativity of peasant people of the last century, the Cudduruni represents a paradigmatic example of salvage cuisine. The agricultural workers of the Siracusan countryside used scraps of bread dough, wild vegetables gathered in the fields, and leftover cheese rinds, creating a complete meal to be eaten during long working days in the fields.

The preparation of Cudduruni followed the rhythm of the seasons: in winter black cabbage and wild chard were preferred, in spring fresh onions. Each peasant family had its own variants, passed down orally from generation to generation, jealously guarding the secrets to achieve the right dough consistency and the perfect harmony among the flavors of the filling.

Over time, the original recipe has evolved. With the improvement of post-war economic conditions, the filling has been enriched with most prized ingredients such as mortadella, crumbled sausage and aged cheeses, without however distorting the identity of the product, which remains connected to the vegetable tradition.

Production method

The dough

The base of the Cudduruni consists of a simple but rigorous dough:  re-milled durum wheat semolina, water, salt and  sourdough starter (or alternatively brewer's yeast). The choice of durum wheat semolina is not casual: this flour gives the dough greater tenacity and elasticity compared to soft wheat flour, ensuring a structure that supports the weight of the filling without crumbling during cooking.

The  preparation requires careful processing. The dough is kneaded for a long time until it reaches a smooth and homogeneous consistency, then left to rise in a warm environment for at least 2-3 hours (or even 12-24 hours if using sourdough starter). After the first leavening, the dough is divided into balls weighing about 300-400 grams, which are rolled out with a rolling pin to obtain a disk about 3-4 millimeters thick.

The filling and closure

On half of the dough disk the filling is distributed, leaving a border of about 2 centimeters. The  three traditional fillings are:

• black broccoli (black cabbage), previously blanched to soften and reduce their natural bitterness;

• wild chard (dialect 'anciti' or 'giri'), added raw or lightly blanched, especially appreciated for their characteristic flavor;

• onions slowly stewed in extra virgin olive oil until caramelized.

To these basic ingredients is always added a tablespoon of  tomato extract (concentrate), which adds flavor and binds the tastes,  fresh or semi-aged pecorino cheese, and a generous drizzle of  Sicilian extra virgin olive oil. In the enriched versions, there is diced mortadella and/or crumbled fresh sausage.

The closure is an operation that requires manual skill: the empty half of the disk is folded over the filling and the edges are sealed with a characteristic pinching (‘nzirta’), which in addition to preventing the filling from escaping during cooking, creates the typical decorative cord pattern. Some artisans make small holes on the top surface with a fork to allow steam to escape.

The cooking

Traditionally, the Cudduruni was cooked in the  wood-fired oven together with the bread, using the residual heat after the first batch. Today it is baked in electric or gas ovens at a temperature of 200-220°C for about 25-30 minutes, until the surface becomes golden and crispy. The cooking must be uniform to ensure that the dough is well cooked even inside, avoiding raw areas near the filling.

Nutritional profile

The Cudduruni represents a nutritionally complete food, although the nutritional values of the finished product vary considerably depending on the specific recipe, the proportions between dough and filling, and the ingredients used in the stuffing.

Contributions of durum wheat semolina

The  re-milled durum wheat semolina, the main component of the dough, constitutes a quality energy source. Durum wheat is characterized by:

• complex carbohydrates (about 70-75% of dry weight), mainly in the form of starch, providing gradually released energy;

• proteins (12-14%), with a superior amino acid profile compared to soft wheat, particularly rich in glutenin and gliadin;

• dietary fiber (2-3%), important for intestinal well-being;

• B vitamins (B1, B2, B3, B6), essential for energy metabolism;

• minerals such as phosphorus, magnesium, iron and zinc.

The presence of complex carbohydrates makes the Cudduruni particularly suitable as an energy source for those who perform physical activity or manual labor, ensuring a prolonged release of energy without excessive glycemic peaks.

Nutritional contributions of vegetables

The vegetables in the filling significantly enrich the nutritional profile in each of the seasonal variants.

I broccoli are exceptionally rich in:

• vitamin C (up to 120 mg/100g), powerful antioxidant that counteracts oxidative stress and strengthens the immune system;

• vitamin K (817 µg/100g), essential for blood clotting and bone health;

• B vitamins (B1, B2, B6, folates), which support energy metabolism and counteract fatigue and weakness;

• sulfur compounds (glucosinolates, thiosazolidones), which exert protective effects on thyroid function;

• isothiocyanates and sulforaphane, bioactive molecules with recognized antiproliferative and chemopreventive properties. Recent studies have shown that sulforaphane, the main isothiocyanate derived from broccoli, induces cell cycle arrest and apoptosis in tumor cells through epigenetic mechanisms, including the inhibition of histone deacetylases (Otoo et al., 2023; Yagishita et al., 2019);

• minerals such as calcium, iron, magnesium, and potassium;

• dietary fiber (3-4 g/100g).

The chard wild (Beta vulgaris var. cicla) in turn represent a valuable source of:

• folic acid (vitamin B9, about 15 µg/100g), essential for DNA synthesis and prevention of megaloblastic anemia, particularly important during pregnancy;

• iron (2-3 mg/100g), necessary for hemoglobin formation;

• phosphorus, mineral fundamental for cognitive functions and nervous tissue health;

• magnesium and potassium (150 mg and 961 mg per 100g of cooked product), electrolytes that regulate muscle function, water balance, and blood pressure;

• vitamin A (in the form of beta-carotene, 6000-7000 IU/100g), indispensable for eye and mucous membrane health;

• vitamin K (over 800 µg/100g), which contributes to bone and cardiovascular health;

• vitamin C (30 mg/100g), which enhances the absorption of plant-based iron and strengthens immune defenses;

• dietary fiber (1.6-2 g/100g raw, 3.7 g/100g cooked) with prebiotic action and regulation of intestinal transit;

• natural nitrates, which improve muscle oxygenation and endothelial function.

The onions (Allium cepa) finally provide:

• organosulfur compounds (allicin, alliin, cepaene), responsible for the characteristic aroma and endowed with diuretic, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds help control blood pressure and reduce water retention;

• quercetin (22-52 mg per medium onion), a flavonoid with marked antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. Recent studies have confirmed that onion quercetin is more bioavailable than from other plant sources, offering protection against digestive system tumors, cardiovascular diseases, and neurodegenerative processes (Zhao et al., 2021);

• fructans (inulin), prebiotic fibers that promote the growth of beneficial bacterial flora;

• vitamin C and B group vitamins;

• phenolic compounds which, synergistically with sulfur compounds, exert antioxidant, antidiabetic and neuroprotective effects.

Quality fats

TheSicilian extra virgin olive oil, essential ingredient of Cudduruni, represents the excellent lipid component, providing:

• monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid, 70-80% of the lipid fraction), cardioprotective and beneficial effects on the blood lipid profile. A recent systematic review (Lu et al., 2024) confirmed that oleic acid reduces levels of key inflammatory markers such as C-reactive protein and contributes to vascular flexibility;

• polyphenols (oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol, oleocanthal), phenolic compounds with powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and cardioprotective action. High-quality extra virgin oils can contain 400-800 mg/kg total polyphenols. Recent studies have shown that hydroxytyrosol stimulates mitochondrial biogenesis and improves endothelial function, while oleocanthal exerts anti-inflammatory effects comparable to low doses of ibuprofen (Serreli et al., 2024);

• vitamin E (tocopherols), a fat-soluble antioxidant that protects cell membranes from oxidation;

• phytosterols, which contribute to the reduction of dietary cholesterol absorption.

The  pecorino cheese, a traditional Sicilian cheese, completes the nutritional profile with:

• high biological value proteins (about 25-28 g/100g) rich in essential amino acids;

• calcium (700-1000 mg/100g), essential for bone and dental health;

• phosphorus which, together with calcium, contributes to skeletal mineralization;

• vitamin B12, essential for red blood cell synthesis and nervous system function;

• short-chain fatty acids, more digestible and with anti-inflammatory properties.

A heritage to preserve

Slow Food's recognition in the Ark of Taste emphasizes the importance of preserving this traditional product, threatened by the progressive disappearance of artisanal shops that produce it according to the traditional method. The Cudduruni represents a vehicle of historical memory, territorial identity, and artisanal know-how that deserve to be passed down to future generations.

Renzo Pierpaolo Turco

Bibliography

• Asif Ali, M., Khan, N., Kaleem, N., Ahmad, W., Alharethi, S. H., Alharbi, B., Alhassan, H. H., Al-Enazi, M. M., Razis, A. F. A., Modu, B., Calina, D., & Sharifi-Rad, J. (2023). Anticancer properties of sulforaphane: current insights at the molecular level.  Frontiers in oncology, 13, 1168321. https://doi.org/10.3389/fonc.2023.1168321

• Lu, Y., Zhao, J., Xin, Q., Yuan, R., Miao, Y., Chen, K., Cong, W. (2024). Protective effects of oleic acid and polyphenols in extra virgin olive oil on cardiovascular diseases.  Food Science and Human Wellness, 13(2):529-540. https://doi.org/10.26599/FSHW.2022.9250047

• Otoo, R. A., & Allen, A. R. (2023). Sulforaphane’s Multifaceted Potential: From Neuroprotection to Anticancer Action.  Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 28(19), 6902. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28196902

• Serreli, G., Boronat, A., De la Torre, R., Rodriguez-Moratò, J., & Deiana, M. (2024). Cardiovascular and Metabolic Benefits of Extra Virgin Olive Oil Phenolic Compounds: Mechanistic Insights from In Vivo Studies.  Cells, 13(18), 1555. https://doi.org/10.3390/cells13181555

• Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity,  Ark of Taste – Cudduruni, Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity Onlus, Bra (CN), available online:  https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/arca-del-gusto-slow-food/cudduruni/

• Yagishita, Y., Fahey, J. W., Dinkova-Kostova, A. T., & Kensler, T. W. (2019). Broccoli or Sulforaphane: Is It the Source or Dose That Matters?.  Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 24(19), 3593. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules24193593

• Zhao, X. Recent Advances in Bioactive Compounds, Health Functions, and Safety Concerns of Onion (Allium cepa THE.).  Frontiers in nutrition, 8, 669805. https://doi.org/10.3389/fnut.2021.669805