Catering is a sector where work is hectic, competition is fierce due to free licenses and web services, the engagement conditions innovated by coupon and home delivery services. We navigate in search of quality paradigms, possibly inspired by the values ofhomo sapiens sapiens instead of algorithms.
RistorAzione Capitale, focus raw materials and semi-finished products
The survey starts from Rome Capital, undisputed destination for travel and tourism as well as ‘melting pot’ of cultures and peoples, Italian and non-Italian. The initial objective is to try to understand the criteria adopted in mid-range restaurants for the selection and supply of raw materials and semi-finished products.
Orders are often placed online, relying on the catalogs of distribution companies. These focus on the quality of the delivery service and on commercial offers that reflect the trend of the market. And in turn, they encourage the introduction of new dishes that tend to be used, given a decent but not very wide offer.
Making the purchases, in the more organized realities, are not the chefs or restaurant owners but employees with commercial skills, somewhat comparable to the buyers of GDO (Large Organized Distribution). They, inevitably tied to numbers, tend to chase savings more than to recognize the value that quality supplies can reflect on the business itself.
Quality catering relies instead directly on specialized producers. They provide extraordinary selections of raw materials and semi-finished products, in a logic of almost individualized service aimed at chefs. A necessary choice when you want to maintain various dishes on the menu, without being able to have large teams of assistants nor give up the exclusivity of the courses.
RistorAzione, certified supply chains and values
The origin of the products and the certifications of the DOP, IGP supply chains undoubtedly represent today a asset of catering in Italy. Considering both the large number of certified supply chains (there are now almost 300, unmatched in Italy), and their appreciation by customers. Thus, the easy 'valorization'.
Restaurateurs and chefs more motivated rely on specialist producers precisely because only they invest in the quality of the supply chain and are able to share its value, which can also be conveyed to the final consumer.
One cannot limit oneself to reiterating the messages of sterile technical sheets, in short, if one wants to propose the value of raw materials in support of quality in modern catering. Instead, the narration of territories, microclimates, and the efforts behind the characteristic ingredient is needed.
The narration, after all, can no longer be based solely on the words of the host but must instead leave a trace. On menus and perhaps also with more modern tools, without inhibition toward smartphones where now everyone checks everything, for the profile of the reality that surrounds it.
The origin of meats is then one of the most serious information gaps. We can boast excellent animal husbandry yet, in catering, the standards continue to be lowered. Until when this information will become mandatory, as it already is in France since 2002 and which we ourselves request, alongside the Consorzio Italia Zootecnica.
RistorAzione, the ‘veg’ awaiting organic
Vegetarian and vegan are now indispensable on menus. Understandably, given a growing 'herbivore' attitude, even if not exclusive, of Italian and international consumers. Not only ‘veg’ but ‘flexitarian’, as it is said in jargon.
The choice to alternate plant protein sources with those of animal origin is associated with the search for relatively new products, in composition and format. Popular and macrobiotic traditions, from pasta and chickpeas to seitan slices, thus give way to ‘burger’ vegetables and other marked novelties ‘veg’ .
Organic instead – despite continuous double-digit sales growth – it still struggles to emerge on menus. A real shame, an unexpressed opportunity, considering that:
-consumers are increasingly sensitive to the dangers linked to pesticides, as the 'glyphosate case' shows. As well as to animal welfare, which organic guarantees,
-the organic supply chain better than any other contributes to the protection of natural habitats and biodiversity, our true treasures. And if ‘the garden vegetables have a different taste’ this is largely due to respect for its nature, not harmed by agrochemicals.
‘Gluten free’, with caution
The market for products ‘Gluten free’ in turn is experiencing exponential growth.
10% of the population European follows a gluten-free diet, although celiac disease and allergies to various cereals containing gluten affect on average only 1% of individuals.
The phenomenon ‘gluten free’ should therefore not be attributed to an increase in celiac disease diagnoses, but to the spread of a reckless fashion, fueled by misinformation from those who profit from it. A fashion that is also dangerous for those not compelled by health needs.
Declaring ‘gluten free’ entails a precise responsibility on the part of the restaurateur. They must be actually able to guarantee that the food presented as such is completely free from contamination. (1)
Hygiene and safety, information on allergens and frozen foods, animal welfare
Hygiene and safety are the basis of restaurateurs' responsibilities. We have already offered the ABC, highlighting on several occasions how crucial it is to provide Written and detailed information on each allergen present in each dish. (2) The written information, among other things, is also mandatory on defrosted products.
Administrative sanctions for the lack of written notice on allergens can reach €24,000, unless the fact constitutes a crime. The crime often also occurs in cases of defrosted foods presented as fresh (the famous ‘Cannavacciuolo case’) or ‘blast chilled’ .
Animal welfare, finally, concerns restaurateurs when it comes to keeping crustaceans alive. Alive in the pan is fine, but not in the fridge.
On RistorAzione, in short, we will have some news and reflections to share.
Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) NB: consumers sensitive to gluten who ingest even minimal amounts due to cross-contaminations may suffer serious adverse reactions, even fatal. In such averted cases, the public establishment owner may incur liability for crimes of injury or homicide, either negligently or even intentionally
(2) See in this regard the Ministry of Health circular 6.2.15 and the European Commission’s guidelines
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
