l myrtle liqueur is one of the most distinctive liqueur excellences of Italian food and wine, deeply rooted in the history and culture of Sardinia. Characterized by a unique aromatic profile – intense, herbaceous and enveloping – this distillate is born from the infusion of the berries of Myrtus communis and represents one of the most distinctive specialties of Mediterranean. Traditionally served cold or iced as a digestive at the end of the meal, myrtle reflects the history, the biodiversity and local knowledge that for centuries have intertwined in the Mediterranean scrubland of the Italian islands.
The use of myrtle in Mediterranean tradition has its roots in classical antiquity. The plant held a central role in Greco-Roman mythology: according to a Greek legend, the maiden Myrsìne was transformed into a myrtle bush by Athena after defeating a young athlete, symbolizing purity and rebirth. For the Romans, myrtle was sacred to the goddess Venus, emblem of love, fertility and prosperity, hence its presence in wedding ceremonies and rites of passage.
The practice of transforming the berries into aromatic liqueur developed in Sardinian and Corsican popular tradition between the 17th and 18th century, when the island populations began systematically to valorize the spontaneous resources of the Mediterranean scrubland. In Sardinia, myrtle became an expression of home hospitality: each family kept its own secret recipe, orally passed down from generation to generation. Only in the second half of the twentieth century did the liqueur enter industrial production, while maintaining a strong connection with traditional artisanal techniques.
The ‘Mirto of Sardinia’ has obtained regulatory recognition as Geographical Indication (GI) according to Regulation (EU) No 787/2019 on spirit drinks, which protects its denomination, production area and qualitative characteristics, definitively anchoring the product to the Sardinian territory.
Botanical characteristics and seasonality
The myrtle – Myrtus communis L., family Myrtaceae – is an evergreen shrub of the Mediterranean scrub, typically 1-3 meters tall, exceptionally up to 5 meters under optimal conditions. The species is characterized by leaves leathery, oval-lanceolate, rich in oil glands that release an intense balsamic aroma when crushed. The flowers, white and fragrant, bloom between May and July, while the berries – initially green, then blue-violet at full maturity – reach their qualitative peak between November and January.
The berries mature have dimensions of 7-10 mm, an ovoid shape, and pulp rich in phenolic compounds, anthocyanins (responsible for the color), and essential oils dominated by α-pinene, 1,8-cineole, and myrtenol, which confer the characteristic aromatic notes characteristics.
Terroir, agronomic practices and sustainability
The production of myrtle liqueur is intrinsically linked to Sardinian territory: the Mediterranean climatic conditions – hot and dry summers, mild winters – and poor soils, often granitic or calcareous, favor the spontaneous spread of myrtle, making the landscape itself an integral part of the product’s identity.
Traditionally, harvesting took place exclusively from wild plants. In the last three decades, the growing commercial demand has stimulated domestication projects supported by the Regional Agency for Agricultural Research (Agris Sardegna) and the University of Sassari. These programs have selected ecotypes with high productivity and aromatic richness, developing cultivable cultivars that reduce pressure on wild flora and ensure greater qualitative standardization.
The sustainable agronomic practices include selective manual harvesting (which preserves branches and allows regrowth), organic cultivation without chemical inputs, and full valorization of plant material, where even leaves and twigs are used in distillery or natural cosmetics.
Ingredients and production method
The myrtle liqueur recipe is based on four ingredients fundamental:
- ripe berries of Myrtus communis (typically 250-400 g per liter of alcohol);
- alcol etilico neutro ad alta gradazione (90-95% vol.);
- zucchero o sciroppo zuccherino (in quantità variabile secondo lo stile, 200-350 g/L);
- demineralized water for final correction
Production is based on hydroalcoholic macerationthe whole berries are immersed in neutral alcohol for 20-40 days at room temperature, in the dark, to extract aromatic compounds, polyphenols and pigments. Some traditional recipes provide for crushing the berries to accelerate extraction.
After maceration, the infusion is filtered through cloths or fine mesh filters to remove solid residues. Then proceeds to mixing with sugar syrup (prepared with hot water) and additional water until reaching the desired alcohol strength: 25-30% vol for red myrtle, 30-35% vol for white myrtle obtained from leaves.
Artisanal variants include the addition of fresh leaves, partially dried berries or complementary spices (citrus peels, cloves), which enrich the aromatic profile.
The color typical is intense ruby red with violet reflections, due to natural anthocyanins (mainly delphinidin and cyanidin).
Types and denominations
Besides the classic red myrtle made from berries, there is the white myrtle (or ‘female myrtle’), obtained by infusion of only the leaves and young shoots, which produces a straw yellow colored liqueur, drier and with a complex aroma, featuring pronounced balsamic and resinous notes.
According to the disciplinary of theIG ‘Mirto di Sardegna’, the product must respect precise parameters: production area limited to Sardinia, minimum alcohol content 30% vol, minimum sugar content 200 g/L, and organoleptic characteristics conforming to the traditional profile.
'Mirto di Sardegna' PGI, production regulations
The production disciplinary of the Mirto di Sardegna IG – Geographical Indication recognized in Regulation (EC) 110/08, then replaced by Regulation (EU) 787/2019 – establishes strict criteria to guarantee the authenticity and quality of this traditional liqueur. The product must be obtained by hydroalcoholic infusion of myrtle berries (Myrtus communis L.) harvested and processed exclusively in the territory of the Autonomous Region of Sardinia, with alcohol content between 28 and 36% vol e total sugars less than 270 g/l.
The berries must be harvested manually a fully ripe directly from the plant, coming from the wild flora or from cultivations carried out in conditions very close to natural ones. Transport must take place in aerated containers that preserve their integrity, and the berries must arrive at the company within the shortest possible time to be subjected to checks that verify theabsence of molds and the correct degree of ripeness. The weight of any leaves present must not exceed 0.1% compared to the berries.
Theinfusion takes place in stainless steel tanks for a period not less than 15 days and not more than 8 months, using a hydroalcoholic solution with an alcohol content not less than 40% vol, employing exclusively neutral ethyl alcohol. The minimum quantity of berries to be used is equal to 150 g per liter of finished product. The process involves three phases: theflower infusion (first drawing), the second drawing (after addition of demineralized water) and the pressed (obtained from pressing the berries).
It is expressly forbidden the use of preservatives, flavorings e colorants. For the preparation of the liqueur, the infusion is mixed with alcohol and a syrup obtained with demineralized water, sugar and possibly honey in an amount not exceeding 15% by weight of the sugar. The infusion used must not be older than 24 months from the start date of the process.
The finished liqueur must present characteristics chemical-physical specific: pH between 5.0 and 5.5, defined color coordinates (L ≤ 80; A ≥ 10, B ≤ 20), presence of anthocyanins 3-monoglucosides with dominance of malvidin 3-monoglucoside, absence of acylated and p-coumaric anthocyanins, gluconic acid ≤ 5,000 mg/l, citric acid between 80 and 500 mg/l, and absence of tartaric acid. From the point of view of organoleptic it must show a ruby red color with initially violet hues, intense and characteristic aroma of myrtle berry, and complex taste with warm structure due to the sustained alcohol content but soft because of the sugar content, with a slightly bitter aftertaste determined by balsamic notes.
Thebottling must take place exclusively in the same production facility, only in glass bottles with a maximum capacity of 1.5 liters, to preserve the sensory characteristics of the product. The use of crown caps is expressly prohibited.
Gastronomic uses and mixology
Myrtle liqueur according to tradition is served very cold (4-6°C) or ice-cold as a digestif at the end of meals, especially in Sardinia, where it accompanies traditional sweets such as sebadas or pardulas.
In the ‘mixology‘ contemporary, myrtle finds increasing use as a characterizing ingredient in Mediterranean cocktails, pairing with botanical gins, vermouth or sparkling wines for aperitifs, exploiting its balance between sweetness and herbaceous aromatic complexity.
In kitchen, le bacche fresche e le foglie di mirto sono utilizzate come aromi per carni (maialino arrosto, cinghiale), selvaggina e marinature, oltre che per infusioni in aceti e oli aromatici, rafforzando la connessione tra prodotto agricolo e tradizione gastronomica mediterranea.
Conclusions
Myrtle liqueur represents a perfect example of how a Mediterranean raw material can transform into a product with strong cultural and commercial identity. Its production – closely linked to the Sardinian territory, traditional practices, and agronomic research – is a virtuous case of enhancing local biodiversity and protecting geographical denominations. With a unique aromatic profile, deep historical roots, and versatility of use, myrtle continues to represent the essence of Sardinia in the glass,winning over consumers and industry professionals worldwide.
Dario Dongo
References
- European Commission. (2016). Technical data sheet: Geographical indication ‘Mirto di Sardegna’ (Attachment ID 54133). eAmbrosia – EU Geographical Indications Registers. https://webgate.ec.europa.eu/eambrosia-api/api/v1/attachments/54133
- Regulation (EU) 2019/787 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 17 April 2019 on the definition, description, presentation and labelling of spirit drinks, the use of the names of spirit drinks in the presentation and labelling of other foodstuffs, the protection of geographical indications for spirit drinks, the use of ethyl alcohol and distillates of agricultural origin in alcoholic beverages, and repealing Regulation (EC) No 110/2008. Current consolidated version: 13/05/2024 http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2019/787/2024-05-13
- Tuberoso, C. I., Barra, A., Angioni, A., Sarritzu, E., & Pirisi, F. M. (2006). Chemical composition of volatiles in Sardinian myrtle (Myrtus communis L.) alcoholic extracts and essential oils. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 54(5), 1420-1426. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf052425g
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
