Montepulciano d’Abruzzo: the DOP denominations compared

Market analysis: the numbers of the DOP Economy

The Abruzzo wine sector confirms in 2024 a structural and consolidated growth. According to the XXIII ISMEA-Qualivita Report (2025), the DOP economy of theAbruzzo registered a positive change of +4,1% year on year, in a national context where thewine export Italian with Geographical Indication exceeded for the first time the threshold of 7 billion euros, reaching 7.19 billion and representing the88% of total wine exports. The  United States confirm themselves as the main market with 2.76 billion euros (+12.3%), followed by Germany (1.81 billion, +10.9%), United Kingdom and Canada.

For the district of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo the most striking signal comes from Intesa Sanpaolo data: in the third quarter alone 2024, exports exceeded 27 million euros, equal to a +56% trend compared to the same period in 2023. The Abruzzo DOC wines certified by ISMEA in 2023 amounted overall to around 1 million hectoliters. The growing demand for wines  organic and sustainable represents an additional axis of development: the ‘ADO Abruzzo’ study, conducted by the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo with AGER under the PSR 2014–2024 and presented in 2025, systematically mapped the regional vineyards for the first time according to pedoclimatic and varietal parameters, revealing the progressive concentration of quality viticulture in the internal hilly areas.

Historical roots and ampelographic distinction

The presence of the vine in Abruzzo is documented since ancient times. The Greek historian Polybius (205–123 B.C.), recounting the deeds of Hannibal after the victory of Cannae (216 B.C.), reports that the wines of the province of Teramo had ‘healed the wounded and restored the strength of the men’. The first written testimony on  Montepulciano grape variety as such is found in the work of Michele Torcia,  Saggio Itinerario Nazionale pel Paese dei Peligni (Naples, 1793), which describes its cultivation in the Sulmona area. In the 19th century, the noble families Mezzana and Tabassi of Sulmona expanded the area towards the valleys of Pescara and the hills of Teramo.

Recent ampelographic and genetic studies have confirmed theindigenous origin of the Montepulciano grape variety, unequivocally highlighting its distinction from Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese), used in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Zombardo et al., 2022).

The regulatory recognition developed in successive stages: DOC in 1968; Colline Teramane subzone in 1995; DOCG Colline Teramane in 2003; name change to ‘Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo’ with EU Reg. 2023/2171; update of the DOC disciplinary with 9 overall subzones (EU communication of 22.6.23); recognition of the new  DOCG Casauria with implementing regulation (EU) 2025/2261 of 4 November 2025 and national implementing decree of 11 November 2025.

The quality pyramid: the three levels of the system

The qualitative pyramid of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is structured today on three levels:

• at the base the  DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which covers the entire hilly area of Abruzzo across all four provinces (Teramo, Pescara, Chieti, L’Aquila), with an annual production of about 1 million hectoliters;

• within the DOC, the updated regulations (Ministerial Decree 19.01.2023) provide  nine subzones, each with more restrictive rules in terms of yield, ampelography, and aging: five historic (Casauria or Terre di Casauria, Terre dei Vestini, Alto Tirino, Terre dei Peligni, Teate) and four newly established (Terre di Chieti, Terre Aquilane, Colline Pescaresi, San Martino sulla Marruccina);

• at the top are the two DOCG: the  Colline Teramane (2003, province of Teramo) and the  Casauria (2025, province of Pescara), the latter born from the promotion of the homonymous DOC subzone.

Production requirements: the regulations compared

Focus DOCG Casauria: the peak of the Val Pescara

the  DOCG Casauria — recognized by Implementing Reg. (EU) 2025/2261 of 4 November 2025 and national implementing decree of 11 November 2025 — represents the third Abruzzo DOCG, after Colline Teramane (2003) and Tullum (2019). The denomination stems from the promotion of the homonymous  DOC subzone established in 2006, and includes 18 municipalities in the province of Pescara (core: Torre dei Passeri, Tocco da Casauria, Castiglione a Casauria). The specification is distinguished by:

• requirement to use at least 90% Montepulciano grapes;

• use of a clone selected from historic plants of the territory, the VCR 456 Casauria biotype (approved in 2007), which expresses a high content of polyphenols and intense aromas;

• natural alcohol content of the grapes not less than 13% vol, the highest in the system;

• minimum aging: 18 months (of which 9 in wood), 24 months (with 9 months in the bottle) for the reserve;

• minimum alcohol content of the wine 13% vol, 13.5% vol for the reserve;

• vinification, aging, and bottling in the production area.

Selection criteria and territorial pairings

The structure of the denomination pyramid is also reflected in the pairing choices:

• the  DOC base expresses versatility: pairs with arrosticini, chitarra pasta with ragù, spiced white meats;

• the subzones and the  DOC reserve find their dimension with grilled red meats, game (wild boar, hare), aged pecorino cheeses;

• the two  DOCG — Colline Teramane and Casauria — express their best with long-cooked braises, beef roasts, stewed game, and hard cheeses with long aging;

• the DOCG reserves, with an evolutionary potential of 8–15 years, pair well with complex preparations and meditation services.

Buyers' guide

For enthusiasts: prioritize certified wines  organic or biodynamic, steadily growing in the region. Consider thevintage e The  territory of origin: temperature fluctuations between the Gran Sasso massifs and the Adriatic coast significantly affect the tannic and aromatic profile. Consider the  aging potential, especially for DOCG: the reserves express the best complexity between 5 and 15 years from harvest.

For professional buyers: focus on certified and traceable suppliers, paying attention to compliance with Reg. (EU) 2018/848 on organic production. Clearly distinguish the positioning in the value chain: the base DOC for entry-level GDO and Ho.Re.Ca. channels, the subzones for the mid-range segment, the DOCG for specialized retail and premium export. The new DOCG Casauria offers interesting first mover opportunities. The team of GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) offers support to international buyers for the selection of reliable producers.

The grape variety between Abruzzese identity and Adriatic denominations

The commercial history of Montepulciano grape variety presents two distinct dimensions, often confused in the oenological debate, which deserve to be treated with precision.

The first is that of  historical practice of blending. For much of the twentieth century, Abruzzo was one of the main Italian basins for the production of bulk red wine intended for interregional trade. The structure, the  intense color and the natural alcoholic richness of Montepulciano made it particularly suitable to correct and strengthen lighter wines from other regions — particularly some areas of Northern Italy, including Piedmont and Veneto — which in difficult vintages struggled to reach the minimum parameters of color, body, and alcohol. This practice occurred on wines  classified as common or IGT, outside the protected denomination system. It was a widespread economic reality — not exclusive to Abruzzo, nor illegal within the limits of current regulations — which helped build Montepulciano's reputation as a ‘structural’ grapevine, but also long hindered the valorizzation of the denomination of origin, since a large part of the production ended up in the common wine circuit rather than in the DOP one.

‘Abruzzo wines, made from local grapes such as Montepulciano, are robust, colorful, and suitable for commerce, but require better practices and organization to fully express their value’ (Ottavi & Marescalchi, 1897).

The second dimension is that of  the grapevine as protagonist in denominations of other regions. Montepulciano, as a varietal name and not a protected geographical denomination, can legitimately be grown and used outside Abruzzo. Marche represents its most significant case: the Montepulciano grapevine — cultivated in the Adriatic area of Marche for generations — is  base or co-protagonist grapevine in several important denominations:

• in the  Conero DOCG the disciplinary requires Montepulciano at 100%;

• in the  Rosso Conero DOC the minimum is set at 85%;

• in the  Rosso Piceno DOC Montepulciano contributes in significant proportion together with Sangiovese;

• in theOffida DOCG red the disciplinary (Ministerial Decree 14.06.2011) sets the base grape composition to Montepulciano min. 85%, allowing the integration of other non-aromatic black grape varieties authorized in the Marche region up to 15%: therefore, this is effectively a pure or nearly pure Montepulciano wine, not a blend where the grape acts as a corrector. To a lesser extent, Montepulciano is also present in denominations of Molise and Umbria.

It is important to specify that the grapes used in these Marche denominations are  cultivated in the Marche region, not imported from Abruzzo: therefore, there is no overlap with the PDO Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, neither from a regulatory nor traceability perspective.

Conclusions

The consolidation of the quality pyramid of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo marks the transition from mass viticulture to a value strategy based on zoning. The recognition of the DOCG Casauria and the redefinition of the provincial subzones represent tools for protection and promotion. In a global market that rewards traceability and an inseparable link with origin, Abruzzo presents itself with a solid regulatory framework capable of guaranteeing authenticity to the consumer and competitiveness to businesses.

Dario Dongo

References

• Cercone, F. (2003). The wonderful history of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Chieti: Ianieri Editions. ISBN 978-8888888000

• Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2023/2171 of 10 October 2023 approving amendments to the specification for a Protected Designation of Origin or a Protected Geographical Indication (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane PDO). http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg_impl/2023/2171/oj

• Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2025/2261 of 4 November 2025 on the registration of the geographical indication Casauria (PDO) in the Union register of geographical indications pursuant to Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 of the European Parliament and of the Council. http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg_impl/2025/2261/oj

• Consortium for the Protection of Abruzzo Wines. https://www.vinidabruzzo.it

• ISMEA & Qualivita Foundation. (2025).  23rd ISMEA-Qualivita Report on Italian Agri-food and Wine Productions with PDO, PGI, and TSG (23rd ed.). Qualivita Editions. https://www.qualivita.it/rapporto-ismea-qualivita/

• Ministry of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forests. (2023).  Production regulations of the DOC ‘Montepulciano d’Abruzzo’ — consolidated text. Rome: MASAF. https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/19401

• Ministry of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forests. (2024).  Production regulations of the DOCG ‘Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo’ — consolidated text. Rome: MASAF. https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/19045

• Ministry of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forests. (2024).  Production regulations of the controlled and guaranteed designation of origin of ‘Casauria’ wines. https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252Fe%252Fa%252FD.69bb6bd9f66932762eb3/P/BLOB:ID=19827/E/pdf

• Ottavi, E., & Marescalchi, A. (1897). Vade-Mecum of the grape and wine merchant in Italy (1st ed.). Casale Monferrato: Cooperative Printing House.

• Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 April 2024 on geographical indications for wine, spirit drinks and agricultural products, as well as traditional specialities guaranteed and optional quality terms for agricultural products. http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2024/1143/oj

• Regulation (EU) 2018/848 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 May 2018 on organic production and labelling of organic products and repealing Council Regulation (EC) No 834/2007. Consolidated text: 25/03/2025 http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2018/848/2025-03-25

• Torcia, M. (1793). National itinerant essay through the land of the Peligni carried out in 1792. Naples: n.p.

• Zombardo, A., Meneghetti, S., Morreale, G., Calò, A., Costacurta, A., & Storchi, P. (2022). Study of inter- and intra-varietal genetic variability in grapevine cultivars. Plants, 11(3), 397.  https://doi.org/10.3390/plants11030397