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Gin Revolution. The thousand aspects of the most versatile among distillates 

Versatile in the mix, but always easily identifiable, gin is the protagonist of incessant success. Here is how it is born and evolves, also in relation to the numerous botanicals used.

The unmistakable taste of gin

As splendidly described by Proust in the Recherche, memory and taste are closely linked. The sensation of pleasure that surprises us when we savor or sip something can create in us an immediate state of well-being, a sensation of comfort and relaxation or, conversely, invigoration. These very aspects, largely unconscious, determine market choices and its trends.

Let's take a step back. The gradient level of a beverage or food, except for necessities, guides both the presence of that product on the market and the standardization of the “taste” that distinguishes it.

Aromatic profiling and the choice of ingredients that characterize it are influenced by several factors. Among these, the target of consumers it is intended for (gender, age group, etc.), the link with the territory, the current market demand and the push towards innovation and new segments of potential consumers.

In summary, in a very simplified way, we could say that the more a product manages to be versatile and recognizable at the same time, the more likely it is to be successful.

One of the fastest growing spirits

Gin In recent years it has certainly given credit to this theory. With a value increase of 6.68 billion dollars by 2026 and a CAGR of 7.59%, it proves to be one of the fastest growing spirits.

A trend in exponential growth that is 43% driven by the Old Continent. Here the focus is mainly on the high-end categories, premium e super premium, strongly characterized by the choice of refined botanicals often linked to the territory.

Following are the Asian markets. India stands out, where the post-pandemic period has seen a clear increase in gin sales on the shelves of large-scale retail, perhaps with less focus on the quality tier of the spirit, but with demand proportional to the density of the urban population. (1)

The roots of success

One of the aspects fundamental is the great versatility of gin which has allowed it to become one of the main ingredients of Mixologist.

From Gin&T, to the London Mule, to the Bramble, passing through the classic bar cocktails speakeasy like the Negroni to the cocktails more retro like the French 75, Gin indeed allows the bartender, modern alchemist, to express himself fully respecting traditional recipes or innovating. It has become the “ingredient” to choose based on the botanicals that characterize it, the brand and the territory it represents.

A bit of gin history

Gin seems to have been born in Antwerp. It is mentioned for the first time in 1552 by the doctor Philippus Hermanni in his  A Constelijck Distileerboec  where it talks about Aqua juniperi,  a comforting elixir made from juniper berries. It then reached much higher peaks of fame and consumption in the Netherlands about 100 years later, thanks to another doctor Franciscus Sylvius de la Boe usually recognized as the “inventor” of gin who in the 16th century offered his patients a grappa distilled by him with juniper berries called “Genever” to be used as a remedy in times of peace and to instill courage in soldiers in times of war.

It was precisely like this that during the Eighty Years' War (1568-1648) the English became acquainted with Gin and then brought it to the peak of success in the post-war years (in 1733 in England about 47 million liters of gin were consumed) and spread it throughout Europe. (2)

Juniper

Gin They are made up of various botanicals. They range from the most essential with 5 botanicals, to the more complex with 10 and beyond. But the fundamental ingredient must be Juniper, as clearly stated in EU Regulation 2019/787 which governs the definition, designation, presentation, and labeling of spirit drinks.

The regulation Identifies 3 types of Gin (Gin, Distilled Gin and London Gin art. 20, 21, 22), characterized by a minimum common denominator: Juniper.

Reg. (EU) 2019/787

‘20. Gin 

Gin is the juniper-flavored spirit obtained by flavoring ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin with juniper berries (Juniperus communis L.). 

b) The minimum volumetric alcoholic strength of gin is 37.5% vol. 

c) Only flavoring substances or flavoring preparations may be used in the production of gin, in such a way that the juniper taste is predominant. 

d) The term "gin" may be supplemented by the term "dry" if the spirit drink does not contain sweeteners in quantities exceeding 0.1 grams per liter of final product, expressed as invert sugar. 

21. Distilled Gin 

Gin is the juniper-flavored spirit obtained by flavoring ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin with juniper berries (Juniperus communis L.). 

b) The minimum volumetric alcoholic strength of gin is 37.5% vol. 

c) Only flavoring substances or flavoring preparations may be used in the production of gin, in such a way that the juniper taste is predominant. 

d) The term "gin" may be supplemented by the term "dry" if the spirit drink does not contain sweeteners in quantities exceeding 0.1 grams per liter of final product, expressed as invert sugar. 

22. London Gin 

a) London gin is a distilled gin that meets the following requirements: 

i) it is produced exclusively from ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin, with a maximum methanol content of 5 g/hl of 100% vol alcohol, whose aroma is due exclusively to the distillation of ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin, in the presence of all the natural plant materials used; 

ii) it has an alcoholic strength by volume of 70% vol or higher; 

iii) any other ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin added meets the requirements of Article 5, but with a maximum methanol content not exceeding 5 g/hl of 100% vol alcohol; 

iv) it contains no coloring agents; 

v) it contains no sweeteners in quantities exceeding 0.1 grams per liter of final product, expressed as invert sugar; 

vi) does not contain any other ingredient besides those in points i), iii) and v) and water. 

b) The minimum volumetric alcoholic strength of London gin is 37.5% vol. 

c) The term London gin may include or be completed by the term «dry». 
Whether it is Gin, Distilled Gin or London, the main scent must be given by the juniper berries of which the Reg also clearly specifies the botanical variety; it must be Juniperus Communis L. Juniper is indeed a cypress present in nature with more than 60 species, some of which are toxic, a spontaneous plant that mainly loves mountainous soils and the berries mature in Autumn. The berries/galbules, which range from bluish to black up to a pinkish violet in some cases of strong sun exposure, havea predominantly resinous or fruity scent depending on the territory of origin and the vintage. 

botanicals and aromatic profile

I botanicals are the soul of the Gin and the Brand that produces it, they are the fundamental constituent. Alcohol is the sheet on which the botanicals imprint their flavor and represent the signature of the Master Distiller who created the recipe.

The juniper, being the main ingredient, is present in a larger quantity. It is usually followed by Coriander, Angelica, Licorice, Chamomile and/or citrus peels which can range from lemon, sweet orange, mandarin, bergamot to which the root of Florentine Iris and Cassia bark are added.

In more complex gins to close the aromatic profile and make it rounder, spices with a pungent or warm scent are often used. Cubeb, Sichuan, Grains of Paradise, Mace, Star Anise, Bitter Almonds, depending on the desired result.

The role of Iris Florentina

The richer the of botanicals the recipe, the more fundamental a role is played by the root of Iris Florentina which contains within it a molecule, a ketone to be precise, called Irone.

Irone forms inside the rhizome over about 3 years. It gives the Iris that elusive and persistent violet scent that characterizes it so much, making it one of the most prized ingredients not only for distillation but also for cosmetics and the entire world of fragrances.

The importance of Iris in gin is due to the fact that, besides being undeniably intoxicating, thanks to the irone contained within it has the ability to make other aromas more persistent, acting as a kind of fixative that stabilizes the aromatic notes of the other botanicals.

To characterize the top part of the distillate are the citrus peels such as sweet orange and lemon or lime and bergamot. More volatile and immediate top notes.

Territory

All the botanicals present in gin have a strong relationship with the territory. In recent years, the exponential growth characterizing it has also seen brands take an increasingly clear position regarding both the aromatic characteristics of gin (for example, with Mediterranean notes for Italian gins, addition of aromatic herbs closer to our liquor tradition, addition of botanicals typical of the gin production area, and so on), and regarding typicality and therefore also the origin of botanicals that compose it.

It is outlining a strong identification between the raw material and the finished product. The Gin wants to establish itself on the market as a sustainable product, easily identifiable with the brand that produces it and highly versatile for the world of Mixologist.

Sustainability

I botanicals are directly interconnected with the sustainability of this distillate. Consequently, so are the player involved in the selection, importation, and processing of botanicals for distillation.

The research of farmer and lands of production that guarantee the standards required by current policy of sustainability and quality control at every stage of the supply chain must be constantly accompanied by careful monitoring of the seasonality and aromatic characteristics of the plant. For this reason, it is important that between supplier and producers solid synergies are created, functional to the realization of a business sustainable and satisfying for all stakeholders of the sector, in honor of one of the oldest and most beloved distillates in the world.

Stefano Trumpy

Image by CocktailTime from Pixabay

Notes

(1) Data www.technavio.com

(2) Source: World-gin-club

STEFANO TRUMPY
Stefano Trumpy
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For 34 years in the world of spices and botanical products, he leads the family company Webb James. President of the Technical Commission of the European Spice Association, he promotes the culture of safety and food integrity in the natural ingredients sector.

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